bobt

Anybody?

Hi, In preparation for an engine swap late December, I've started sorting out the engine loom. The car is a 2000 1.6KSS Superlight with what appears to be a standard loom ie it shows no signs of being previously hacked about. The starter motor circuit is a little odd in that it uses 2 relays to actuate the starter. Firstly the push button starter actuates a relay that lives in the little black relay box. In a normal setup, the switched side of this relay would then run down to the starter solenoid, but instead it is used to drive a second relay that is external to the relay box. This external relay sources its switched power direct from the battery, and the switch then drives the starter solenoid. What’s the point of that???? In my mind only one relay is really required. Does anybody else’s car have a similar setup? If not I'll loose the secondary (redundant) relay and drive the started solenoid directly from the first. Thanks Rob Edited by - bobt on 7 Nov 2006 23:16:43

Good idea - I'll look into it Thanks for all your help Rob

Thanks for help Peter, Just looked at think and these adapter only come in 6, 8 & 10 JIC. The tank has 12 JIC fittings ☹️ Cheers Rob

Ah... No props found it by doing a search 😬

Unfortunately there are no spare fittings. I inlet at the top, 1 outlet at the bottom and two breathers also at the top. Do you mean like a T piece adapter? Rob

Not wanting to hijack the thread but when removing the charcoal canister what do you do with the hoses that attached to it? Two dissappear into the transmission tunnel (I assume back to the tank) and the third goes up to the inlet manifold. Is it a case of joining one of the two that go back to the tank to the one on the inlet manifold and blanking the other off ? Thanks Rob

Hi, I have a pace easy clean DS tank that I want to attach a oil temp sender to. Where can I get a small 1/8 npt boss from so that I can have it fixed into the side? Or indeed is there an alternative method? Thanks Rob

They are a higher flow rate than standard injectors. If your injector duty cycle is very high then yes these will be of benefit to you. They'll work with any spec engine provided its remapped to suit them. Rob

Hmm how do I turn that into a clickable link in here ? Rob

A set of 4 IWP 043 injectors removed from my K http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220038577624&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:UK:31 Happy bidding

So, nobody knows of any clutch that fits other than the standard AP????? Rob

Hi, I'm in the throws of my winter project to build a 200bhp K to replace the 1.6SS in my superlight. I have a lightweight flywheel and caterham 6 speed box and was wondering what choices are available in terms of clutches. Is the standard caterham AP cluctch still up to the job? Are there any others available which won't suffer from the dowel location problem? Cheers Rob

Thanks Myles - spot on

Hi, Has anybody got an emerald map for a standard 1.6KSS engine ideally mapped with a power speed exhaust fitted ? Cheers Rob

Sorry, its for a K series. I'm quite sure there are two scavenge outlets, take a look at the picture in the link cageyH posted. I assumed the pace tank only had one inlet coz the picture on there site only shows one. Guess I'll give them a call. Mank thanks chaps Rob

Hi, Looking at pictues, the pace system has two scavenge pump outlets and the easy clean tank only has one inlet. I assume both lines are Tee'd together before connecting to the tank. Is there an elegant way of doing this and anybody got any picies? Thanks Rob

Drill what ? I ordered my conversion kit today and was told that its a straight unbolt old balljoint and bolt on new kit - no mods required. Rob

Ah £195 - as it says on their website

Hi, I'll give them a call tomorrow, but how much is the freestyle conversion kit ? Rob

Tony C, did you buy the engine bay fuel line end bits from caterham or are they general off the shelf parts? The end that attaches to the fuel rail looks pretty bespoke to me. Rob

Well, the old bolt trick finally did it. Its off - with a BIG bang. Many thanks to everyone - here's hoping the refitting is not as bad as the removeal. As I've broken the dust seal on the joint I'll replace the whole thing. Next job is the drivers side and as the joints are in good knick I'm gonna chicken out and just turn the hub instead to give me more neg camber. Cheers Happier Rob

Well I still haven't managed to pop it yet ☹️ I'll give this method a go tomorrow evening before I move onto the 'rotate the upright' method. I'm kind of thinking that I never want to go through this again so is their a conversion to rose joint that uses the the same thread in the wishbone? Member ECR mentions in his last post in this thread that he's converted to spherical joints - anybody know of the conversion ? http://www.blatchat.com/T.asp?id=32264 Many thanks Rob

Anybody close by the Ealing/Hanwell area that would like to come round and try and remove it

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Now resigned myself to the fact that this isn't going to have a happy ending I've deceided to use the forked separarter. This tool has never failed me before in removing stubburn joints - but will it budge. I'm belting this thing as hard as can. Rob - all out of ideas