Ralph

Hi just taken on a new project so have a couple of bits I would like to get out of the way. All the bits are from my 1996 X-Flow, all the postage rates are signed for delivery 1st class and I have attached photos Old style Grill painted Gold £15.00 plus £8.05 Postage NOW SOLD Wheel carrier and bolt needs stripping and repainting £8.00 plus £5.55 Postage Ital PCD Petty Strut £30.00 plus postage £9.05 NOW SOLD

Hi Jonathan I have had a look on the posts regarding electric pumps and will probably go for the pump I mentioned as it has a flow rate of 3.5 as my carbs are not happy over this so I don't need a high flow rate pump. I am going to replace the fuel hose. A few posts I have read are very happy with it and it seems more reliable and I will also not have to control the pressure. If you have a wiring diagram that would be great I just have to work out were to mount it I know it will have to be as close to the tank as posable and below the feed. Think I will go electric route and I suspect people with rubber diaphragm and mechanical fuel pumps may suffer in the future? Ralph

My mechanical fuel pump died (No In or Out Pressure) Think its the Diaphragm, no fuel getting to carb’s at all. This pump bought from Burton only lasted about 3 years. Could this be a result of new petrol? even though I always put 98 ron E5 into my tank. Thinking of installing Weber 12v Universal Fuel Pump 2.0 - 3.5 PSI Anybody done this, any ideas on positioning and wiring. Car is a 1700 X-Flow Twin 40's Year 1996 Ralph

SOLD Mirrors & Bracket Posted I will send a PM

Thanks I will send PM Spring Compressors SOLD Ralph

For Sale R888 185/60R13 80H with wheel (Ital PCD) Bought in 2017 but never used £40.00 Collection Only Marlow Bucks Area.). Starter Motor from Cross-flow (£15.00 if collected ) or posted at cost(Working when I removed it and replaced it with a WOSP). Spring Compressors (£5.00 If collected) or posted at cost PLUS BELOW ITEMS ALL FREE IF COLLECTED (See Photos) Pair of Pitking Black Mirrors fittings not complete Pair of Mirrors Rear Number Plate Light & Bracket Racing Head Restraint from 1996 Cross-FlowIf anyone takes any of the free bits and likes them you could always give a couple of quid to Prostate Cancer fund White X-Flow To Loud for Track

John / Jonathan Had to remove the tunnel cover so I had access from both the top and bottom of the gear box. Fitted a new 2 Pin Switch to gearbox and undid the loom in the tunnel next to the gear box. Used a multimeter to identify the wires and connected at follows. 1.Cut green live wire (Original feed for the old reversing light) fitted bullet connector 2.Cut original connector from Green Brown Wire fitted bullet connector 3. As suggested by Jonathan I connected the green/brown to the green wire on the new loom. Thanks to all for helping me with this as I NOW HAVE A WORKING REVERSING LIGHT ! Ralph

Thanks Jonathan & All I have decided to go with two pin switch, should have it by Saturday I have undone some of the existing loom and removed the switch and found the live feed which is keeping the light on, so propose to use this Green wire as per the picture. Is this to simple or am I missing something as you diagrams you have a two way connector Ralph

Hi Jonathan Yes the end is connected directly to the new unit No this connects directly with the new loom connector no other connections and all the wires from original loom to the number plate light are redundant, According tp Caterham video this is for all models Ralph

Hi everyone Relay sounds possible does anybody know where the feed from ignition is connected to the Green/Brown wire. I had an of the wall thought, as the wire is constantly live when the ignition is on could I just wire a two terminal G/box swilch on that one wire? Scott. I have attached picture of the unit with connection. I think the 3 wires a two live one for the reversing light and one for the numberplate light and the 3rd would be earth.

Hi Jonathan Also this may be useful to anybody else who has the same single wire reverse light switch as me DOUBLE CHECKED EVERYTHING 1.Single wire from loom to g/box Green with Brown strip 2.Connector at rear of car is 2 wires one Green/Live & one Green & Brown Earth (Could hardly make out the brown stripe). 3.I moved the position of the connector pins so Green now connects to the green wire from the new loom. GOOD NEWS Reversing light works BAD NEWS Reversing light stays on when not in reverse. My Conclusion would be if you have a Reversing light with one connection you will have to change the switch to a two pole type and earth the second pole to part of the car. If you want to fit the new Rear Light Kit Would like to hear which switch to buy as not much room to play with in-between chassis and Type 9 G/box Jonathan please shoot me down in flames if you think I am on the wrong track.

Thanks Jonathan Went through your suggestions and I now know what is going wrong. Sometimes you lose you way and it helped to read your post and made me think logically. As suggested I rewired an old lamp back and took the connection of the switch and ground to the gearbox. (Light came on !). Re connected the connector to switch and light came on (Puzzled). Used a circuit tester and the answer to the why plunging in to the new loom does not work is now apparent the original connection on the old loom is back to front to what I would expect (In the Picture the wire with the masking tape is black (This is the live wire the green is earth). see photo I always thought Black was supposed to be earth? So I assume all I have to do is swap the pins round in the plug so live connects to the green wire on the new loom plug. In the new loom you only have one wire for both the Reverse light and the Fog Lamp so assume the earth is within the new units. My car is 1996 and uses the Econoseal type connectors. Also I had to run the new loom along the chassis at front of the fuel tank as the gap is too small at the back (not enough room to feed new Reverse Light / Numberplate light through). If you have a newer car as Stu said in his post you might be better off taking the boot floor off. Thanks all for chipping in as it helped a lot.

Hi All Just installed the new Caterham rear light kit, look great but still working on getting the reverse light to work. As for the reversing light I am confused as I don’t seem to have the normal set up, the switch only has one pop stud connector (see photos), and on top of that the wire does not show any power (tried with ignition on checked fuse but nothing). At the other end two wires presumably one live and one earth but they are the same colour green. Questions 1. would this switch work with the new lights anyway? 3. If all else fails I am thinking of changing the switch to the normal 2 pin and rewiring. Any ideas on the easiest way to do this. Just need a few ideas in case I am missing something obvious as I am not an auto electrician.

Thank you both Think I am going to place order with Alicool they are using the same part code as Caterham but not as expensive. Just need to decide if to get it powder coated or not Thanks again

Hi Guys Going to replace my re-conditioned rad on my 1700 x-flow, should I go for the aluminium one on the caterham site (direct replacment) or is there a better alternative. I ask the question as I know there a cross over between K Series cars an XF-Flows for example I have had to buy Heater Hose Kit for a K series to fit my system for the X-Flow (Due to the position of the inlet and outlet) of the heater I have. So would a Radtec for K Series fit? Ralph's very loud x-flow

Had this since I bought the car only used a few times due to not having cut outs for the head rests. If anybody is interested £55.00 inc courier shipping. Could e-mail pics Ralph with the loud white 1700 xflow

Thanks for the info Chris Had a chat with Simon @ metormotorsport and have ended up purchasing Nitrons complete with springs pre built. Should get them in about 3 weeks

Hi Guys Had a conversation with Chris at Redline today and I will probably go with what he supplies. Spax shocks. It will be an upgrade as these will be adjustable. Not sure re the length of the front spring but the new ones will be 10"so not sure if current one compressed or fitted at 9 1/2" .Now waiting for the quote to arrive from Redline, Waiting to see what Chris comes up with re the lbs, mainly road use with maybe 1 or 2 track days

Hi All Currently rebuilding suspension on a 1700 x-flow Live axle re built from 1996 1600 academy car I need to know the correct spring dimensions to order (front and back) I am probably going for AVO shocks Old front shock comes out at 9.5" long when taken off the damper ID 1.9 as this is a 20 year old spring would it have been 10"" originally ? Anyone else done this as any advice would be helpful

Re John G's comment I looked at the Rainexpert 3 but I am a bit concerned about the speed rating and the look, also I would like to do a track day etc. After a few years of tinkering the car is running great and I would like to make the most of it. Ralph White1700

Thanks for the Input Had a late call from Adams & page, they can do me a set of 185/60R13 for £65 + Vat each Looking at the net I may have to go with this and get the Speedo re-calibrated and watch the speed bumps. 50 mph would be about 47 mph and the gap gets bigger the faster you go. I was trying to avoid this but it look like my choices are limited. Ralph White1700

Desperately need update on previous posts re Tyre's I run 185/70 R13 86H A021R's which no longer have any grip Due to the fact they are now not 'E' rated I cant get them anymore What is the current thinking on what to use now instead, now the Track day Tyre is no longer thank's to the EU I would like to keep the same profile as its going to be a hassle changing ride Hight and Speedo etc. Any Idea appreciated I already tried Adams & Page in High Wycombe but they have not gotten back to me with any ideas. Ralph in the White1700

Hi Mark Are they Black or Chrome ? Price soun goog though. Ralph

Hi Peter Yes would be interested need to know how much you want for them, I am in Buck's, Ralph

Hi All I am looking for either 7" Chrome Headlight or a pair of 7" black Headlights. The Shell on one of my 7" chrome ones fell off due to rust it's the only thing on it I have not replaced yet I need either to replace the chrome one or change them both to black Just had a re-spray All white so thinking the black may be better if someone has a pair. Ralph*smile*