Dave M

Fancy meeting you here too. You must spend as much time on the 'puter as me. Sad init. Dave My PRB Busa

Get a Birkin 😬 They have alloy uprights, alloy 4 pot calipers. It's OK, I'll see myself out now ☹️ Dave Birkin S3 2043

"loading" I understand it to mean hard acceleration (without wheelspin) followed by hard braking (without lock up) rather than weaving all over the place. I got this from one of Carrol Smith's books. I cylce though this sequence to warm up my ACB10s for our super sprints (1/2 lap warmup - flying start - 3 timed laps) Could be wrong though Dave

Hmmm, might be a case of lashing out on the 15" 3 piece rims and trying them with the ACB10s. I already have plenty of data on the 13" so a real comparison could be made. FWIW I run 2 way adjustable Koni shocks and have a range of springs to choose from with adjustable anti-roll bars front and back. I would rather tune the cars handling using these "controlable" devices than rely on tyre sidewalls for compliance. The 15" wheels are proposed for a new project which will be lighter than my existing se7en, so control of the damping will be more important. I don't have any technicial expertise to back these comments up, just my thoughts. Dave PRB87

Yes, but how do the 13" improve handling if the tyres are the same circumference, tread and compound? I may need to change because of calliper clearance and availablity of 13" over here. ☹️ Edited by - Dave M on 16 Sep 2002 00:09:18

OK, obviously nobody has tried this ☹️. Is there anybody out there that has run the 15" ACB10? It is an expensive exercise for me to change and I want to be fairly sure that the 15" will perform the same as the 13". Thanks Dave PRB87

Surge tank schematic here Works a treat on my car.

Does anyone have back to back experience with ACB10 13" and ACB10 15" with wheels of similar weight (4.5kg 3 piece). I am currently running 13" and am considering changing up size and would like some feedback regarding any handling differecnes. I am only concerned about track performance. Dave PRB87

Geez Darryl, you're sadder than I am. Go outside and enjoy the sunshine. smile.gif We have just been down the the beach in the seven. Dave PRB87 (AUS)

We've had Optimax in Oz for over a year now. It is used by most high performance cars and race cars that are regulated to use "pump fuel". I use in in my Toyota 4AGE powered PRB and V8 Holden. It seems to make a difference. Dave PRB87

Dino, The rotary Turbo has been done here in OZ. Andy reckon 350HP. http://board.performanceforums.com/board/viewthread.php?TID=467&FID=8 Dave Edited by - Dave M on 26 Aug 2001 23:07:03

Simon, Lose the screen and fit a JPE or aero. Made a real difference to my car in that it gets to 100 quicker on the straightsand keeps pulling. Also saves a bit of weight wich will help with your power disadvantage. Dave PRB87 Edited by - Dave M on 16 Aug 2001 11:47:14

Ammo, Depends how heavy your car is with you in it. My car weighs 550kg wet and I weigh 80kg clothed (unless you drive nude). My heaviest corner was right rear (under my backside) at 172kg (379lb). I have emailed you the spreadsheet. Dave PRB87(AUS) Edited by - Dave M on 5 Aug 2001 21:57:22

Get a Motec! Does everything. Optional traction control, launch control, telemetry, logging, etc.... Link it to a Motec Dash and you have the best! You shouldn't have to travel 10,000miles to Oz to have it setup, I am sure they have guys over there. www.motec.com.au Dave PRB87(Aus)

I use Green Stuff pads. They are great on the road and do not fade on the track. I have done two track days and three supersprint meetings with them. They are great and NO BRAKE DUST! The agent told me the Greens were best for a road/track car that weighs <600kg. Dave PRB87 (AUS)