Philip G

Thx for all the feedback. Looks like a contact thermometer will give a better reading. I'll update in due course.

The thermometer is pretty accurate when I use it on heating / boiler pipes etc. If I rev the engine, the front of the cat does rise up through 150c but the exit of the cat is still cooler. Engine is running fine. It's this differential in cat temp that is interesting me ... theory says back of cat should be hotter than front ?

Yes. I removed it an it all looks ok. It's just the temp piece that has me unsure.

Pretty sure seal is ok, I will ultimately get the test but interested if anyone has tried this or has a rule of thumb as a start point.

Hi, I am recommissioning my 2012 R300 Duratec 2.0L. During COVID I had a problem where one of the injectors got stuck open and fuel entered the cat causing it to overheat to the extent that the trim on the cat heat shield melted and the car cutout. I fixed the injector at the time and the car runs very well. I have the opportunity to get a used cat but they ain't cheap so looking for a quick test without going full MOT route. The cat looks ok visually but I have run a temperature test that Google has guided me to, My understanding is that the out pipe temp should be higher than the in pipe temp as a result of the reaction. So I have idled the car up to op temp for 15 mins. Using a laser thermometer, the inlet pipes at the "gather end" are 56c, the front face of the cat, 94c, middle of cat 54c, back face 33c and outlet pipe to silencer is 38c. Am I reading this correctly that the cat is damaged and replacement is required or is the test too simple and this is normal ? Thank you for taking the time to read.

Thx p

Thx p

Thx Guys. Where is the foam tape attached ? The top of the coil or the connector to make cover press down on it to dampen vibration ? I have checked cat with inspection camera and the mesh looks intact on in and out sides. I'll wait until MOT.

Thx John.

Hopefully last update. Have changed to "beefier" loom suggested by John Vine. I haven't done TPS loom as I would need to cut into loom. The "missing" I was getting at idle yesterday seems to have been cleared with new plugs today and a good few rev cycles. Like many faults, not sure what specifically caused initial issue but going through the system with the help of Blatchat members has got me to better place. Still got cat to check and crossed fingers for next MOT. Thx for all help and support.

Update. Had some time with the car today. Checked coils and used power probe to ensure the injectors were "clicking". Started car and it ran smoothly and rev'd. Temp on header nearest scuttle was 120 and between 140 - 150 on other three. After about 30mins and some more revving, exhaust popped once and engine ran a little less evenly with an almost irregular "chuff" sound and a slightly deeper exhaust note. The temp of header furthest from scuttle had dropped to 90 degrees. No smoke from exhaust at any point. For most of the running, had thought original problem was injector that had been stuck open and that it had resolved itself with some gentle "taps" and power probe. Not so sure now. Don't want to take it for a run and put engine under load in case i need recovered again. Will have another go at running over next few days. Probably need to get it booked in for a proper service with professional diagnostics. I will[ also be be checking cat with inspection camera to check for damage from original issue.

Hadn't thought of injector ... good call and could explain why was running fine last time it was out and now missing. I'll try this also when I get back to car. Thx also for photos of Cat which is a good baseline for me to work from.

Hadn't thought of injector ... good call and could explain why was running fine last time it was out and now missing. I'll try this also when I get back to car. Thx also for photos of Cat which is a good baseline for me to work from.

Thx for all the responses. The black plug is No 2. I will not be seeing the car for another three weeks but these posts are very helpful. The first part of my short run was down hill with little throttle and when I opened the throttle I think I dumped the fuel from the cylinder not firing into the cat. I will have a look at loom and connections etc. I'll re-post when I have worked it through. I previously had a vibration related loom problem that caused fuel pump not to prime. i assume the only way to know if the cat is damaged will be at MOT emissions test ?

Took car out for a run today. First time in a year .. all fluids checked etc and took it easy for first mile. It only has 2000 miles on the clock and engine is standard. It then started to lose power, felt like a misfire that got worse. Got it into side of road waited five mins and it started again but it was rough, ran it done a hill on way back to home but couldn't keep engine going. Pulled off road and noticed the edge protector on the cat shield was smoking and melting in the road with the heat from the cat. Had it trailered back. Three of the plugs look nice and grey, one looks carbon black. Lambda sensor looks light grey when I removed it. Would be grateful for any ideas of where to start, particularly why cat was so hot. I have located the OBD port. Will this help me if I get a code reader ? Thx for taking time to read.

Thx Roy ... I took the car for a run this morning and then topped up with fuel and all seemed ok. Probably was a weak connection somewhere. A least I now know my way around the circuit.

‘The car is running again after an hour or two of chasing connectors. Pump priming and operating as normal. I switched fuses and relays.. Relay was clicking ok but I switched it anyway. I re-routed and loosened the wires going to the inertia switch as they a bit tight and reset the plug into te switch. I removed the part of the loom with the pump connection and the plug that attaches the four wires from pump to the loom. I checked the wires for continuity. All ok. I notice that the wires coming out of connector to the pump are bent over by the floor so that might have had something to do with it. Checked continuity of inertia switch, ok. The car is very lightly used and kept spotless inside and out. Connections we all in as new condition. Put it all back together again and the pump primed and she started Tomorrow I am going to just check everything ok with immobiliser loop as last check. I’ll give it a run again at the weekend to check all is well. Hopefully sorted but now I know where I am looking for problems if it reoccurs Thanks to to all who have helped.

Thx Anthony .. appreciate you taking the time.

I recognise all the pics and instructions from John Vine. Assume I will need a power probe. I keep the car on the Isle of Skye so that will be for the next trip up in five weeks The pump did prime and start engine last time I tried but then it didn’t when I retried two mins later I’ll be trying again this evening. So may be intermittent From this evening I do have a few more days to check connections etc I have in my mind the only thing that changed between the engine running fine for two hours and the problem was engine off, filling the tank right up and attempting start five mins later. I suppose that is electrics Neil CSR, can you help me with what the multi core connector to the relay is ? Is it base board they all plug into ? How do you find the problem ? Anthonym, it would be really helpful to understand the sort of places you found your issues with your five faults. Thx again all for taking the time.

Thanks guys. Will have some time on Wed to get my bearings and start the hunt. All posts really helpful. Thx.

I have checked all the fuses and they look ok. Switched some 15 amp around. IT STARTED. Probably three hours since I last tried. However, when I tried to start again, no joy, just turning over despite me resetting mobiliser etc. Have reset inertia switch plug. Seems ok. Fuel meter is working I am away for a few days and will do the tests suggested by John on 12v supply mid week.

I was out for a long run today in R300 Duratec. Stopped to fill with up with fuel on way home and topped tank right up, “click click ...”. When I came to start, immobiliser light ok, the engine turned over but did not fire up. Realised the fuel pump was not priming. After 30 mins of checking inertial switch, ECU plug etc, had to get my trailer to get the car back home. I have removed a bit of the fuel from the tank. I have removed boot floor room to get access fuel pump. I am not great with electrics. I would really appreciate a quick test routine to determine what the problem is. Many thanks Car is 2012 170 Duratec but with only 2,000 miles on it..

One owner. Four years old but as new with less than 500 miles of running and garaged since purchase. Tyre Rack Winch Full deck Tie down straps Adjustable wheel chocks Integrated slide-out ramps Locking hitch Jockey wheel BrakeFits single garage. Total length inc. hitch is 4.6 meters and total width is 2.05 meters. The load bed is 3.4 meters long and 1.71 wide. I need the garage space for other projects and 7 is being used on road rather than track. Based near Glasgow but happy to meet half way if collecting from a distance. £1,995.

Thx for the feedback guys. Makes sense on removing the scuttle, setting up rivnut solution and leavimg dash, which is carbon. The pic makes it clear how the scuttle and bulkhead are joined. The only rivet ends that look like they will left in a a chassis rail are the two at the very bottom edge of the scuttle where there is one on each side. Will start planning. Any further ideas or insights on fitting and wiring gratefully received.

Thank you. PM sent.