6speedmanual

CR500 is very readily available.

BMTR Birmingham

http://bmtrracing.com/contact/

I change my diff oil annually, does not leak so no top up. Boot floor out, chassis supported, axle drooped.

Spring balance pulling tangentially to the key? Or just do them up properly tight by hand if you have a feel for these things.

Photo?

The CR500 is a much better suited tyre to a Caterham.

You can. It's not to difficult if you've a modicum of mechanical nouse. Some recon parts available to ensure your inner ball joints are in perfect condition when you put it all back together. Peter

No worries!

Glad you have got a bit deeper into the investigation.  I wasn't that much help, just doing a bit of brainstorming.  Hopefully the collective of BC will get to the bottom of it!

The brake lights are 21W x 2 = 42W

Using P=IV

I=P/V

I = 42/12 = 3.5Amps  (if my o-level physiscs is serving me correctly!)

So, something is drawing too much current on the brake light circuit, something down stream of the fuse and the switch shorting to earth?  Or shorting to the reversing light circuit?

Do the brake lights come on or is there just a current draw? Also do the reversing lights come on? If there's a short circuit, normally the bulb would not light or only light dimly as the current prefers to drain to the path of least resistance.

Have you checked the earths?  (trace back the harness from the tail lights, or someone on here tell you where it earths to frame.

I've never had any problem in this area on my 7 but maybe others have?  I seem to remember reading various threads about tracing short circuits.

Peter

Arch chassis: headlamp bracket pinch bolts. One is fine.

Petrol filler tube fairing 'cheese wedge' - to my knowledge I have never lost anything via the small gap around the filler tub since removing it.

Wheel centre caps/embellishers?

Wear a Casio F-91 instead of your regular boar anchor.

Get your boot cover remade by Oxted in lightweight nylon. The original pvc leathercloth is stiff, bulky and heavy. I got mine done about 8 years ago and it is still super despite apparently being a less tough material.

Rear arch gravel plates.... Bin!

The bottom threaded pin of the front upright is about 8 threads too long. Double win - unsprung weight!

Dump your "7" decor grille and just run the mesh. If you are paranoid that joe public might not know your car is a 7, stencil a painted 7 on to the mesh.

Replace front wing fixing "glue"/sikaflex/tigerseal with 4 neat and very light nylon screws and nuts.

Dump all split washers and flat washers in apllications where they have no beneficial function but are liberally provided in the fixings kits.

Shorten all the bolts to each applucation. Many have 3-4 threads poking out. Cut back to one thread exposed after the nyloc nut.

Get rid of all the beading around cockpit inner skins. Looks poor, collects grit, hard to keep clean and adds weight without function. If you reassemble the skins without the beading, the edge can be perfectly dressed down to the chassis tubes.

Fit OE spec 6mm dia plug leads.

@markiebabes and durrant: I went for the blue, 7mm, to save weight :P. ;)

@ozzy. I found the magnecore fitted ok and like the "umbrella" shape which attemps (not perfectly) to cover over the hole/tube.

Anything to do with HCMSL you were asking about fitting kit for on 8th May?

Does it do it every time? Repeatable? Are you cranking with foot on brake pedal? What if you remove fuse and put a voltmeter or test light on either side of the fuse holder and then crank? Fuse can only blow if it's carrying excessive current so must be a crossed wire somewhere or a circuit (brake light switch closed) whilst cranking. Possible compensation for poor earth somewhere by feeding through b/light cct during cranking. Continuity check to earth or the starter relay from either side of the b/light fuse holder? Do brake lights illuminate, even momentarily, when you crank before the fuse pops?

If you have an intermittent misfire cjeck other HT components too. I recently traced an issue to a hairline crack in the rotor arm.

 

Peter