susser

Cor this could be a can of worms ❗ Doing wheel nuts up with no lube can mean that the fixing torques out due to friction in the taper before the stud has stretched sufficiently. Remember that the stud is only like a piece of elastic that pulls the two surfaces together. If it's not tight enough to start with, the two surfaces (wheel/hub) can move and cause the nut/bolt to loosen. Over,,,, PS When torquing you must keep rotating until the setting is reached; If you stop at 85% the stiction will mean that at the next pull the torque required to break the stiction will be higher than the specified final torque. As implied earlier. Over,,, Edited by - susser on 6 Sep 2005 12:47:37

And put some copaslip on them.

If you are the posessor of a can of Coke then that would be a suitable use for it. BF is hygroscopic and tends to wash away I find.

Coming out of the Budgens carpark area in Woodbridge as I sat in my Volvo with the Tribe, in the queue, in the sun, with the busted climate control, 2 teenage daughters and a stressed dog. Made my day. Thanks Ammo Didn't get time for the "Masonic sign"

The same can be said for the Vectra, I have to use them for work travel and we all say the same about the poxy indicators.

BMW indicators all have an intermittent fault; First they work, then they don't, then they do, etc, etc 😬

Next time you go in, have everthing labelled, if you can afford to take the pi55. Steering wheel labelled Left/Right with arrows etc. I can't remember when I heard of anything so daft; When you are driving do you look at the controls to see what they do ? I don't think so. Now if you were providing the car as a device under the Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations that would be another matter altogether,,,,, that would be another matter that would be another matter that would be another matter that would be another matter etc

Might be another way. Drill a pair of holes say 1-1.5mm dia and only 2mm deep diametrically opposite, unscrew with a pair of circlip pliers. It's probably not tight. Saves doing any big invasive stuff and allows the axial methods, drilling, easyout, LH Drillbit, if it fails. Like my Dad said; "A job well looked at."

Grant You are welcome to put Black and Stonechip over my pit. You gotta do this right. There's a high price for mistake here. Like my Dad said. "A job well looked at is half done." I'm less than 30 mins away !! Paul.

ozzy I've rotated my tacho' so that the needle is vertically down at 7200. This is a good indication of shift light-ness and is better than having the needle disappear behind the wheel just when you need it most. very quick to scan as well. OK so the words are on the skew whiff but hell 😳 Oh and another thing; Ive transposed the shiftlight and Main Beam Warning so that the 'beam light is partially hidden by the wheel, and the shiftlight isn't. Edited by - susser on 19 Jul 2005 09:54:20

Steve There should be some coming up in a sealed bid auction soon. Circa £250 is the going rate. Paul.

I nearly bought an LPP a week or two ago for £250. It had the smaller Climax engine. There's a bigger version that looks the same, only bigger and twice as heavy (The complete pump unit that is) There's more where that came from an all. Another thing ; They are designed to go to the rev limiter immediately in starting. Don't know if this is a feature of the engine or the way it's built for Fire Pump use. I used to bollock my crew for screaming the tits off them; "You wouldn't do that to a Ford Escort !! Why do it to my fire pump ??" then I found out the truth. Edited by - susser on 15 Jul 2005 12:48:53 Edited by - susser on 15 Jul 2005 12:52:24

Andy Thanks. As usual BC has all the answers.,,,,,,,,,,,,,Now I've been having some trouble with 'er indoors,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Paul.

With something like that it's generally OK to just hammer it over in a vice; the metal is so thin that there is very little stretching of the outside radius. You would only have trouble if you went for a pin sharp crease, with cold metal. IMHO Paul

The unsprung weight includes the bits that go up and down. That includes most of the spring, (to a greater or lesser degree), the moving part of the shock. The rocker arms, push/pullrod etc. If the spring rate is high enough it can include the whole car (F1 not so long ago). IMHO

This techtalk is great. . By refining my searches I think I've got it pretty well sussed, what with all the posts about the top bush, play in the splines, aligning, drilling the wheel. Thanks BC. *thumbup* Next, and part of the same project is Aircraft style Ign and Start switches. I need a wiring diag showing the Ign Sw Terminals. I'll post a seperate.

Working on the idea of a Momo wheel. I see the CC QR Boss kit comes with a short stub, presumably to be welded to the existing column. This raises 2 questions; 1, does this mean the steering lock can be retained ? 2, is this a better option than the more common upper column replacement method ? 3, if it is then why can't I find a thread on this welded column boss kit job ? 4, why are there 3 questions, bu88er , 4 ?

Don't want to hijack the post here, but I feel the need to back up the HF acid scaremongering. It needs scaremonging and every chance I get to mong it some more I grab with both hands. One of the new "wonder materials" is "Viton" it is found in a lot of engines, industrial seals, valves, gaskets. When heated, say, in a fire or when a bearing gets overheated, to some 400+ deg C, it breaks down to form a black sticky mass containing Hydrofluoric acid. It will have the bones out of you. Be afraid of it. Be Very Afraid.

Sounds like a sticky Idle Speed Control Valve. The aircon Comp puts a fair load on, as long as it's a bit here and there. here is my Volvo one and it puts a noticeable load on. (when it's not on the bench.) Turn the climate/aircon off. That'll eliminate it from your enquiries. susser (1/2 🙆🏻d thermodynamicist)

Petrolhead Wilco are wot used to be Shortis. Maybe they aren't a nationwide co, only Norwichwide. It's a Comma product.

Thass great guys, that is. I just said to Xflow pete, I said, " I'll check the Comp Pressures to see if that'll help people to decide what gasket we need." I spose we ought to pull the head to make sure we get the right one then ? Pete's only just got it see, an we don't know a hell of a lot about it. The ports have had a bit of a good seeing to by the looks of it. Seems pokey enough measured against my 1600K Supersport. I'm beginning to lose the plot hare as the Boddingtons comes on the cam. 😬 😬

XFlow Pete had a really lucky escape the other day when his 1600 ingested one of the K&N backplate nuts. It forged itself onto the crown of No4 right over the gudgeon pin and right beside the Ex valve. Dug the nut off, cleaned it all up, rebuilt with the (not very) old gasket and blatted to Carrotland OK. Now, we gotta do a proper job on it. It's been ported pretty well, so do we need a special inlet man gasket?. Wot about silicone inlet man instant gasket ? What's a good head gasket ?. Is the Halfrauds one OK ? Is this too many questions ? Hopefully they stock them all year round (read the coolant thread ) Intend to measure swept vol, valve lift & dia, duration and compression to get some idea of what the engine is about. More of that once we've had the spanners on it. Hope I haven't run on and gone and masked the question there.

Wilco do it in 3 and 5 year grades. about 13 bucks a gallon. (Undiluted) Edited by - susser on 6 Jul 2005 18:56:59

Myles That's what I come here for.

Well spotted puremalt's wife ❗ Cleaning wheels is probably the heathiest thing to do with it.