Paul_Hedley

Thanks Strongy. I'll Blatmail you direct to sort out details. Paul

Thanks TomB. Might be a good excuse for a decent blat ...

But not 185/60/R14.

I'm currently running Yoko A539s (185/60/R14), 2 of which are getting down to the wear markers and will shortly need replacing. I have 1 brand new which has been the spare and was hoping, as there's plenty of life left in the other two, that I could just source 1 new tyre. No such luck. It seems that Yokohama no longer make 539s in 60 profile, and I really don't want to lose any more ground clearance. Does anyone have any good state 539s in this size, to save me having to throw away 3 perfectly good tyres and replace the whole lot? Thanks Paul

Has anyone over my way (Gloucester) had tyres fitted by a firm they would recommend? I'm looking at replacing my almost illegal Yoko 539s with 021Rs, which I'll have to get from Polleys or Camskill or someone, and will need them to be fitted. Any recommendations gratefully received. Thanks Paul

The plot thickens. After further investigation earlier on, I thought I had solved it as after cleaning the slightly corroded earth contact and trying to operate the switch without the knee panel, the fuse didn't blow. Power, engine start - all fine. Until 90 secs later when the engine died, as it turns out as a result of a blown ECU fuse. I've never had it blow while running before. A replacement fuse, with BMS still enabled, and all is well again - engine running happily for a while. However, on turning off the BMS, ECU fuse blows again, and this time replacement with BMS enabled also blows. Not sure what else to try here, short of phoning CC to ask for a replacement switch. Paul

Paul, Interesting suggestion - I'll go back and try that. Having done some tracing of wires, I can't see any evidence of the problem elsewhere, and the fact that everything seems to run as it should, and that once the BMS is on, I can put a fuse in a it doesn't blow, does seem to point towards the switch. I suppose it's also possible that the switch itself is faulty. Many thanks Paul

I have been thinking about whether anything else had changed between all being well and not well. The only thing I can think of is that the car was washed. Might this be a water related problem? Thanks for everyone's help. Paul

97 1600 supersport (K series).

Thanks for the ideas. Ian - is there an easy way to identify the positive feed cable (colour?) so that I can check it? My initial assumption was it was likely to relate to some sort of earthing, but my cursory inspection this afternoon didn't yield anything obvious. Thanks Paul

Having done some reasonable surfing round on these pages and finding ECU fuse blowing topics, it seems that although the symptom is the same, the cause may well not be in this case. I recently had a Battery master switch fitted, which has been very useful as my garage has no power. When I came to the car on Wednesday night, and enabled the switch, I then had no fuel pump etc - traced to a blown ECU fuse. Duly replaced, all seemed well. The following morning, same drill, same result: blown ECU fuse. Everything seems to be running fine once the fuse is replaced. I tried swapping the fuse for a 30A this afternoon, but that blows in exactly the same way. Clearly something not right. Is this likely to be an earthing issue, and if so, where should I start to look? I took the knee panel off this afternoon to check the connections on the BMS, which all look fine, except that the earth to the chassis looks a bit corroded (slight concern since switch was only fitted 2 1/2 months ago). I'll clean this up tomorrow. Is this 'channel' behind the knee panel a known water trap? Given that there seems to be a gap in the panels straight out to the edge of the bonnet, I might fill this up, though not sure what with. Any pointers from you experienced electronics gurus would be much appreciated. Many thanks Paul

Mine's a '97 S3. Hopefully, I'll be able to have another go this afternoon. Thanks Paul

Having had the same issue described in various threads of the new wiper blades not fitting the old arms, I have bought new wiper arms from CC. What is not clear to me is quite how the fixing works in terms of removing the old ones. There's clearly a clip of some sort that holds the threaded sections together, but is there an easy way or releasing it so that the old arm slides off the boss? I had a play this afternoon (in slightly poor light) but didn't want to force things if there's either something else holding them on, or a release of whatever sort. Thanks Paul

I have a very odd intermittent indicator problem. On the past few journeys, I have sometimes had working indicators, and sometimes not, seemingly with no rhyme or reason. Various Blatchat posts seemed to suggest a bad earth as the likely cause, but I can't find any evidence of that anywhere on the car. All of the other electrics, including the lights, are fine. I've tried the 'switch the hazards on' trick too, but they don't work either. In both cases, all I get is a single 'click' (presumably from the relay) but no actual light action. Having taken the flasher relay out, it seems to rattle, which seems unlikely to be a good thing. I will try looking at the connections on the hazard switch, as suggested in another post, but failing that do I just need to order a new flasher relay from CC and hope that fixes it? Any other thoughts/ideas? Many thanks Paul

thanks Nifty. It's a bit difficult to predict how she's going to feel about it.... Paul

Does anyone know whether it's possible/advisable to have both harnesses and inertia reels fitted and usable? I have harnesses at present, and the original inertia reels are still there, but the straps/buckles are not bolted in. Intuitively, it ought to be possible to use the same mounting bolts for both at the same time, and just choose which to use on any occasion, but is there a danger of one fouling the other? The reason for the question is that my wife is pregnant, and the (little) research out there seems to suggest that harnesses (and more particularly harness buckles and their location) carry s larger risk in the case of pregnant women. It would be a shame not to be able for her to use the car over the next year, or indeed for us to have to swap it for something else! Thanks Paul

After a rather annoying traffic incident and the damage to my existing nosecone, I've just taken delivery of the new one, freshly painted and ready. However, I didn't ask about fixings or anything. The current one has the Dzus fixings which go through holes in the nosecone, which if course aren't there on the new one. My question is, is there a 'well recognised' way of preparing the new bodywork for fitting (in particular drilling the holes), what size, where, do I need to order complete new fixings, and how do they go on? It presumably details all of this in the original build manual (perhaps I need to order one of those from caterham too), which I of course don't have. There's also the matter of the soft spongy stuff that is in a strip on the current nosecone so that the bonnet fits nice and snugly. What should I use for this? I've read the various threads on number plates etc. any help would be appreciated. Many thanks Paul

Interesting idea. I might give that a try, depending on how it is in the current position. I suppose that makes the 'bite' at about the same level as the brake, rather than that being the 'rest' position. Paul

Thanks to all for the various pieces of advice. I think I have it all sorted now. There are 3 throttle mounting points on my 7, but it was in the forwardmost one anyway, so there wasn't any further I could take it that way. I did end up removing and bending the throttle pedal, and have set it up nicely now for some heeling and toeing. I think I've found a middle ground with the brake pedal so that I don't need to modify the master-cylinder bolt (the end is clear of the pedal), but I haven't taken it out on the road yet. It was also easy to deal with the brakelight issue, once I had worked out what was going on and how it was supposed to work. I certainly have a better driving position, so we'll see if the wife can find one too. Cheers Paul

Neil, Thanks for that - it makes sense. The switch therefore needs to be depressed when the brake pedal is in its 'rest' position, so that when the pedal is pressed, the switch is released illuminating the brake light. Hmm - I need to fiddle with that. Paul

As a Caterham Newbie (I've only had it a fortnight) I have been fiddling about with seat positioning and came to the conclusion that I need to move the pedals forwards, both for me, and for my wife to be able to play. They (i.e. brake and clutch) were bolted through the middle hole, so I've moved those forward to the frontmost hole, and adjusted the brake master-cylinder bolt and the clutch bellhousing to get them right, and drop the pedal level a bit. Two questions though: 1. I can't see an easy way of moving the throttle forwards. I presumably need to shorten/adjust the throttle cable, but I'm not sure how to go about that. (All of the blatchat posts I can find essentially says 'clutch and throttle are easy, brake is more difficult.) The owners' manual just says ' there isn't much adjustment in the throttle cable' while saying nothing about how one might do it, and then suggests 'bending the top of the throttle pedal' if more is needed. If I do need to do this latter stage, is there a recommended method? 2. In adjusting the brake pedal and the master-cylinder bolt, the L-shaped metal 'piece' that is attached to the master-cylinder bolt stops being in contact (or depressing) what looks to be some sort of switch. I'm not sure what this switch is for, and whether it is a problem. Thanks for any advice anyone can give. Paul