c7ollie

Hi, I have put a new Ford Fuel pump in my 620S because Caterham were out of stock. It should be the same, however the fuel gauge went up as miles went on until completely full. I then put in 30l and the needle is at empty. Does anybody know if this is just the polarity and whether switching the cables will resolve the issue? Thanks.

I am just running in my new 620S and of course the manual doesn’t cover the battery located in the passenger footwell. I assume it’s lithium. Any advice on how to keep it charged and with what kind of charger. A had an R300 for 12 years and had battery charging down to a fine art but assume this is a bit different?

Currently on retention £395.

£595.00 - Currently on retention.

My Caterham is now sold so 750 for a quick sale.

13" rims currently with 2 x 185/60 R 13 and 2 x 205/60 R 13's

13" rims currently with 2 x 185/60 R 13 and 2 x 205/60 R 13's

I will measure them tonight when I get home and let you know.

£100 ono for all 4 I bought them from a racing team just to put a set of cut slicks on and take tack track days to the next level. My Cateham is now sold and I dont need them. Blue - some paint has chipped off revealing silver underneath, I never got round to respraying them because I only realy kept them as a spare set. They have ADVANS on but probably best to renew the tyres as they are quite old. Pictures available

For Sale. Brian James TT model trailer (Model T-TT-T-611) Reduced to £1,995 for quick sale Heavy duty trailer with folding heavy duty tow pole and double axle wheels under the flat bed so that the car fits in a standard garage with the car on top. The trailer has always been garaged, and is the perfect size for my SV with room to spare. Will also take a Lotus 211, Exige, Elise etc. Fitted with - high level tyre rack (holds 8 wheels) with security cable and lock, manual winch, slide out ramps, extra ramps to create an even shallower ramp angle if needed, storage box. Trailer no longer needed as I have sold my Caterham. Buyer collects - Worthing, West Sussex.

Registration C7 SOS available - Alas my Caterham is now sold therefore, now £995 for a quick sale. The plate always gets fun comments as instead of the Garage address, I had the vinyl front plate changed to read 'Mid life crisis part 1'

£1,250 ono

I bought a new expansion tank cap for the hell of it as well but everything now is just dandy, it was only an airlock (I think) Thanks for all the help.

Ran out of time last night, had to go to the pub! but I had time to see that overnight the coolant level in the expansion tank had returned to normal, coolant came out of the top of the rad when I checked but no coolant at bleed tee. (No fluid on the floor). If gas was getting in, the coolant would displace but it wouldn't disappear so I have to assume there wasn't enough in there in the first place ie and airlock. Therefore I am assuming that the airlock has now moved to the highest point. I put in 1/2l more coolant (v slowly) until full, including pulling the pipes high so that the coolant filled the heater as well and then left it over night to settle down. I'll test drive over the weekend and if this doesn't solve it, I will pursue head gasket with all the info provided. Thanks.

FYI mine is factory built on a 52 plate and has always run with the temp needle inexactly the same place just above the 80 which I call 88 (long live analogue dials - not! ) I have tracked it 20 ish times, Nurburgring 5 times, Spa etc etc so I'm not too worried so long as it doesn't overheat on idle. I think the answer to this still lays in and around the thermostat?

Giles - Thanks, i'll check it, I had a short in the fan circuit which the Garage fixed during MOT and service. I'll check it, you never know. Not a silly suggestion,I would try Alt, Ctrl Delete if I knew it would fix it. Revilla - Brilliant info thanks. You've got me thinking about the thermostat being the wrong way round but from memory I'm quite certain that the plastic housing would only allow it one way round - I certainly put it in the way round that looked most obvious with a match shaped recess. FYI I also made sure that the hole in the thermostat was not obstructed because if you put it in say 3 o' clock rather than 9 o clock, part of the inside of the black plastic enclosure obstructs the hole. After the second run where the temp remained constant 88 but started to overheat on idle, I checked the pipe between Thermostat and radiator and it was warm (but not cold) in comparison to the other pipes which were hot. ?? Thanks for your help.

The heater blows hot no cycling of hot/cold but I didn't specifically check - will do. How do you check that the pressure builds before getting hot and should it or not? I could see the water circulating through the bleed tee but I think that was because the engine was still quite hot and therefore the thermostat was still open. Thanks for your help.

I didn't realise the valve wasn't completely open on first fill but definitely fully open on the second top up.

Perhaps I just need to repeat what I have done a couple more times to work the airlock out?

Lever was out but the fan wasn't on.

Rover K series 1.8 165bhp Head gasket good according to garage pressure test and no sign of mayo in engine. Replaced thermostat now with a 2mm hole in. Refilled coolant Test drive resulted in progressively increasing temp. Stopped, expansion tank full and no sign of coolant at the bleed tee by the heater. Drained coolant down to max level by draining from the top of the radiator put the caps on and then topped back up at the bleed tee. Ran the engine with bleed tee cap off to get rid of bubbles. 10 minTest drive this time spot on never got passed 88oC at 30mph or 100. hurrah. Pulled up at home left the car running for 5 mins to see what would happen. Temperature kept rising fan came on temp kept rising and the expansion tank filled to bursting point. Again, no coolant in the pipe at the bleed tee! What am I missing here? All help appreciated. Ollie

To be honest, it was when I was lifting up the bleed tee as high as possible so may have pulled on the hose joints. I'll watch it closely but follow your guide if it's a definite leak. Cheers.

Airlock found and cleared, following a search on here on how best to clear, now the top and bottom pipes are getting hot, therefore coolant circulating. Fan switching on at about 85oC and switching off again all without leaving the garage :) only problem is that when I was topping up the bleed tee, water appeared on the bulk head to the left of the heater. A leak is possibly causing all this? Thanks

No. All help is appreciated.

Hi, my problems have returned. Since this post I followed your instructions, fitted the bleed tee etc and the radiator fan was an electrical problem. As per your post the pipes from the head to the radiator get hot, the top of the rad gets hot . The temp gauge gets just under 120oC then the fan kicks in, whether idling or driving around gently, the temp gauge drops to between 90oC and 100oC but the fan stays on constantly. I am suspicious of the temp sender and may change it, however that doesn't explain why the temp doesn't drop enough to switch off the fan? I think the most important thing to note is that the bottom exit pipes of the rad remain cold, even with the the temp reading 100oC and the fan running. It sounds like the water isn't circulating. Any ideas would be appreciated.