NickW

Darth, The power is approx 135BHP, so standard Supersprint output. Nick.

BTTT Come on, not even any comments 🤔

BTTT

Thanks Matthew. Yes I will be sad to see it go, but I have really enjoyed the experience. And it's even quicker with the 3D Ignition..... 😬 😬 Nick.

1990 Caterham 7 Supersprint - Red with flared wings (have cycle wings ready to convert) - De-dion Chassis - 1700 Ford Crossflow with Hepolite Pistons & BCF2 Cam - Dry Sump - 3D Mapped Ignition - Twin 40DCOE Webers - Closed loop cooling system - 4-1 Side exit exhaust - 5 Speed Gearbox - 32K Miles – Refreshed 7K miles ago, inc. Vulcan Maxflow 1A Unleaded Head. - ZF 3.92 LSD - FIA Rolbar - 13” Supalites with Bridgestone RE720’s - Spare set Original Caterham 13” Minators - New EBC Front discs - Leather Seats (Also GRP race seat) - Full Hi-Vis Weather gear - Willans 6-point 3” drivers and 4-point 2” passenger harnesses - Tax & MOT March 2005 Professionally built on a Q plate. Extensive documentation including every MOT, original specification sheets from Caterham and many receipts. £8,950 ovno. Pictures here

Brian, The expert opinion is that a tuned Xflow is happier at a lower temp, so a 74deg stat is used. This gives a temp gauge reading of about 80deg in normal conditions. Not sure if you can recal the guage??? Nick.

Forgot to add: Oliver, Have you seen the map on my crap website, I adapted it from one Bill sent me. Seems to be a good starting point. here Nick.

Oliver, Do see the RPM move around in the Runtime Display simiar to the guy that posted on the Megajolt forum? I don't get this problem. My tickover is rock steady. (well normally within 50rpm or so). Can't offer any suggestions that haven't already been done, sorry. I'll try and scope the PIP signal if I every get any time to get in the garage. (Hence no updates on the state of play with Guinee Pig 1. I know feeble excuse) Let me know if you want me to try anything else. Nick.

Bill, Where are you???

Thanks Rowly. Yup, no sensor = no spark = AA Truck. But as Bill says there ain't a lot to wrong so should be very reliable. The sensor is the current version from Ford for an Escort. P/N: F7009578. £21.58 +VAT. As for 'hows it going' then I have only had chance to get out in the car once since I got the ECU going with a map donated by Bill. However, the car starts easier and does seem to pull better in 2nd and 3rd. You can see the map I'm using here Thanks, Nick.

Rowly, I've made a new VR Sensor bracket which should be more sturdy, whadya think? MegaJolt Piccies Nick.

What you need is a place that re-conns alternators, they normall have a mount of old pullys. One problem you might have is that later pullys are a 17mm diameter hole where as yours will be a 15mm hole. Burtons might do some pullys as well. Regards. Nick.

Rowly, Yes, your right, it is a little exposed!! I did this part in a bit of a hurry. I did use a nyloc tho'!! I do have plans to make a better bracket that the sensor will locate into rather than sit ontop of, this should stop any possible rotation of the sensor around the bolt. It's also a little closer to the fan belt than I'd like, I might reposition it aswell, but that means rotating the trigger disc a little. Regards, Nick

Ferrino, Take a look here towards the bottom of the page, just added a couple of photos. Regards, Nick.

OK, Didn't get to do much of a blat yesterday, but the second map has made a difference, car definatly starts better and seams to pull better from 2nd. I also seam to have alot more 'pops' on overrun 🤔 😬 I think the next step is a rolling road session as I don't have the expertese to know what to change in the map, I think the cam in the car that the map came from came in at a higher rpm than mine does, so maybe need to drop the advance figures down the rpm range a little?? But, the system works. It's relativly easy to instal. It's very cheap and even with a basic map it's better than a dizzy. 😬 Thanks to Bill and Guy for getting this off the ground. 1st happy customer, Nick.

Hello, Just been out on the first test drive with the MegaJolt installed. Everything works OK, feedback from the Runtime display in the software is good. The car seems a little easier to start, no bad thing with a XFlow!!. The map I'm using is basically a copy of what my dizzy would have been giving, so is very safe. I've got another map from a Xflow, so will try that out and see if there is what the differences are. There are some pictures here of the installation. Please excuse the crap website. I'll try and update a bit later with info on the other map. Regards, Nick.

Test Subject No.1 here with an update........ It Works!!! 😳 😬 😬 😳 I installed the EDIS part of the system a couple of weeks ago which went in quite easily, the hardest part being the trigger disc for the crank sensor, but I think Bill will sort something to simplify this. I did mine solo, so have used a Poly V belt pully set and mounted the disc behind the crank pully. The ECU will mount under the dash on the very right hand side. I've done this beacuse the EDIS module is mounted on the other side of the bulkhead behind the pedal box. I'll take some more pictures when It's tidied up. The ECU plugged in and talked to the Tuning software first time. I loaded a safe map and monitored the advance with a strobe!! There is also a Runtime Display option in the software so that you can see what the RPM, TPS (or MAP) and advance value are. The TPS I used was the standard Weber item, but I think Bill may have a cheaper option there, not sure. This returned valuse between 25 and 185, so I just altered the values on the map to range between these. First test blat will be Sunday as I'm going to Edgbaston tomorrow, so I'll let you know what happens. Nick.

Chris, I've admitted defeat for the time being. The Ford EDIS module has a tacho out signal which appears to drive the tacho OK, so I'm using this at the moment. The main reason for contining to try and get a usable signal out of the coil pack and not trying the EDIS before was so that I can connect my Omex rev limiter as well. Tried connecting the Omex lead that normally goes to -ve on the coil to the tacho output from the EDIS along with the tacho and this causes the tacho to die at about 2000rpm, so it looks like the signal from the EDIS is not strong enough to drive the tacho and the Omex. I'm assuming that the -ve connection to the Omex is just to sense the rpm and then the Omex grounds the 12v feed to the coil to limit the rev's??? If so then maybe if the Megajolt tacho output might drive the Omex and the EDIS can continue to drive the tacho?? Have to wait till I get my Megajolt from Bill!!! Thanks for all you help, very much appreciated. Nick. BTW, I checked the pulse frequency between the old system and the new and they are the same, so I'm definetly not getting double the pulses needed.

Chris, From what I can see then 1&4 are connected to the same coil and 2&3 are connected to another coil, so when coil A fires you get a spark on plugs 1&4 and then coil B fires you get a spark on 2&3, so for any one spark there is only one coil firing. I can understand a double quantity of kickback pulses in a system with individual coil packs for each plug, but from what I can see of the diagrams of the coil pack there are only 2 coils. Am I getting things very wrong here 🤔 Nick.

Nigel, Errrrr, sorry about the highjack!! Have you looked at the link for the CA tacho that Chris sent, if you have one of these then there are 2 setting for different types of feed from an ECU source. Might be worth experimenting with the switch settings. Nick.

Chris, The tacho is a VDO unit, can't see any switches or access panel for switches. I can't see how I'm giving the tacho any more pulses than it had before. The coil pack has two halves, one side drives plugs 1&4 the other side drives plugs 2&3, so I should just be getting a -ve kickback each time the coils fire for each plug which is what the tacho needs. The tacho is accurate upto 2,700rpm where is dies. Thanks, Nick.

Chris, Your calulations look about right, the max rpm of the tacho is 7000, close enough. I've just checked the signal from the new setup and the period of the pulse reduces very slightly with increased rpm. The signal before the zener does not have the extended signal at 10v as does the original coil output, so all the zener is doing is altering the voltage of the signal. I removed the zener from the circuit and the tacho does not work at all from the output of just the two 1N4004 diodes, so I'll try a 10v zener to see if that makes a difference. I don't have the MegaJolt ECU at the minute, shoudl have in a few days. There is a tacho output from the EDIS module, but there is currently no connection on the harness I have, so would need to bodge something together to test this. Thanks, Nick.

Chris, The diode circuit is at the bottom of the page here The original coil just has the normal connections, +ve to the ignition switch and -ve to the tacho and the dizzy. With the new coil pack I have basically disconnected the two wires that went to the old coil, (+ve and -ve) and connected the +ve to the centre tap of the coil pack to provide it with 12v and the -ve is connected to the output of the diode circuit above. I've diconnected the plug to the Luminition ignition module. The photos were taken at about 800-900rpm. The only change in signal as the rpm increases is the pulses get closer together, I don't think the period of the pulse decreases, but can check again. I'll try and have a closer look later at the signals before and after the zener to see how different they are, I don't think the zener is doing much!! Thanks, Nick.

Chris, A bit more info on the problem. I tried a smaller value Zener, but no change. If you take a look at the photos here you'll see the images of the signal from the original coil and the Ford coil pack I'm using. The images are very different and hence the problem. (Please exuse the website, I know it's sh1te, I just knocked it up in the last 5 mins) Interstingly, the signal doesn't really change when sampled infront of the Zener?? I beleive the operating range of the zeners I've used might be upto 200v, the peak of the kick-back signal is about 300v. Might I be overloading the zener so that it is not operating correctly? So, do you think the schmitt trigger will produce a signal similar to the original coil? Thanks, Nick.

Chris, Thanks for the kind offer, but I don't think I would be able to get down to you in the forseeable future. I used to have a scope once but can't remeber what happened to it, must have given it back to were I pinched it from?? The tacho is a bog standard Caterham item c1990 and was taking the raw -ve from the original coil and working fine. I'm now doing effectivly the same, but with the Ford coil pack. Would you happen to have any info on a suitable Schmitt Trigger circuit that I could build to try and clean up the tacho pulses? Thanks, Nick.