millsn

get down to your local area meet and get some help waggling your wheels. It'll soon surface

I'm pretty sure that with some porting and the right cams you can go to 220 hp on a zetec with TBs. I'm holding out for 240 myself and that makes it expensive as then you need forged pistons and prob rods too.

It can be done with a flypress but yes, you will wish you hadn;t started. I'd contact James Whiting or other similar specialist perhaps Chris wheeler (Hoddesdon) also. I seem to recall he had a small press in the rear of his shop for exactly this purpose.

 

There's also an upgraders special as an option - You might also wish to consider upgrading your dedion tube if all of this proves to be to much of a hassle

Mine was on 4 bar for the same reason but Road and Track told me that was pretty much the limit for a std K pump. I switched to bigger injectors for safety and dropped the pressure with a mini remap to suit.

think mine's from Jenvey, sorry can't find any pics but it's overslung

I'll be pretty shocked if not

Anyone else had this problem? Do Mercedes offer any goodwill Got any good arguments I could use?

Speedo and rev counter winging their way to what is part of speedy cables actually on asking, for, matching. thanks for the pointer.

I think that buried in all that some really key info may be lost. You can get cheap steel cranks from Ford. I seem to recall dikko posting this not so long ago but can't find it when searching.

 

I have a 200 2.0 zetec on TBs and whilst it suits me I have also changed alot of the car accordingly. The car is not not as light on its feet as it was with the XF possibly bvecause the engine seems to mounts very far forward relative to the XF.

It leaks no oil. I've had it really hot (they're hard to bleed the water system) and not blown a head gasket. They run better on TBs but I don't believe that creates any more actual power. As someone else here has mentioned there is a risk that you miss the power delivery of the XF. The zetec is less frenetic. The resultant car is much faster than anything around on track but in traffic it's still hard work versus hard driven big beemers etc.

 

Got to wonder if buying a BD variant isn't a considered choice...

I hadn't found them actually, I'll give it a look

 

Edited by - millsn on 18 Jul 2011 08:37:07

I'm looking for a sender driven speedo to replace my cable drive one. Caterham's seem good value but the bezel is the wrong shape. All my dials have a very square edged bezel like this rather than the newer rounded caterham bezel like this

 

Does anyone have a suggestion? The VDO gauge isn't cheap on its own. Then you need £50 of sensor to go with it.

 

Can anyone suggest where I might save some cash?

Vecta immobilisers were all the rage some years back. They're a black cuboid (basically rectangular).

Your rack can be tested by getting someone to hold either front wheel whilst you wiggle the steering wheel back and forth. If you feel any play at all there is an issue somewhere. My most recent issue here was that the ends of the rack were actually broken (prior track damage) so I needed to replace the rack but you can simply tighten most racks to remove slack. Ball joints can wear too and check particularly the central joint in the steering column which can loosen over time. Basically wiggling the front wheels with a (preferably 7 owning) pal involved should turn up any issues.

Might be dodgy timing (slipping or u/s throttle pot) , dodgy coil connections also an option. Of your throttle pot reads throttle site 1 rather than 0 but the throttles are actually on idle it'll run like a sod. Popping and banging doesn't sound like fuel to me rather some sort of electrical or control issue. Has the car been rolling roaded yet?

So much to check, what's the car? Wheres the tracking? Tyre pressures around 16 psi only? They should be. Check your camber. The nuts that keep it constant can become loose. Is it a dedion? live axle? Either way the bushes at the rear of the car can get shot over time. As to springs, you'll also need to consider your ARB before deciding on a new spec. How about looking for play in the steering column? The join in the column can work lose. The rack can wear also, some are adjustable. When did you last check your wheel bearings (front) for play? de dion - Where are your dedion tube trailing arms fitted, they;re best in the lower position. Give ewverything you can wiggle on the car a good wiggle and get a friend to help that's before you start replacing bits.

Looking for a cheap speedo.

Mines a cable drive and as such keeps failing. I'm looking for a speedo that uses a magnetic sensor our similar rather than the gearbox speedo drive.

Anyone have one?

 

Edited by - millsn on 11 Jul 2011 23:01:50

100%: Which is if you can get hold of the XDR&&* pulley at all!

I was trying to get the nut undone. I hadn't even entered the "can't get the pulley off" stage 😬

I've given up, puit it all back together and it'll find its way to Ford to fix it. this was so easy on my Mondeo zetec. Is this progress?

Can anyoine with a focus engine advise how to get these off? I have a home made tool from the Ford dealer but it doesn't do the job. Is there a bespoke item I can buy? I can't hold the crank still

prop ujs

Don't they need some sort of extended breather to allow you to run sufficient oil in them to avoid starvation on cornering?

Not sure if this works on your model but on my 96 dedion I insert the upper mount first and do the lower one last. On the lower you have the ability to jimmy a screwdriver between damper and wishbone and you can get a jack on the assembly so you have some option to play with.

Like that, just clikc on the smilies on the LHS of your post before sending

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