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millsn

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Posts posted by millsn

  1. Mine appears to run hot but only recently. I don't trust the gauge. I discover when I switch the heater fan on and off the gauge swings fairly wildly. Some sort of earthing issue on mine I think

     

  2. Bear in mind that the spring base suits on a circlip like ring. The ring clips around one of a series of grooves in the damper body. It may be that your circlip-like ring is on one of the lower grooves and this can be changed.

     

    Just don't ask me which groove it's supposed to sit in!

  3. I don't find that my seven 'pulls'.

     

    Steering wheel alignment can be resolved but IME you need an interested indy preferably a seven specialist to ensure this is done right.

     

    I also think there can be loads of things wrong with the front end of a seven which is worth getting checked or by a specialist if you don't feel able. This should be done before you adjust the tracking. Typical fail points: rack adjustment, steering column top joint, steering column ujs, loose rack attachment bolts, loose/missing camber lock nut and maybe track rod ends too.

  4. Mine's been spongy for a bit and weeps at the front. I think I should look for a race m/cylinder the same diameter as the standard one. Then the construction should be suited to 7 usage but the feel remain the same. Just need one that uses the same mounts. Must confess I don't enjoy the prospect of bleeding it throughout again. Last time took forever

     

    http://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/master_cylinders/flange_mounted_types/vertical_flange_types/cp5623_type.aspx Looks like they're around £80 ex vat, not sure what dia is required as a direct replacement mind

     

    Edited by - millsn on 8 Jun 2012 17:24:43

  5. Not the usual problem I don;t think.

    New rack, steering connects directly. Where the drive goes to the pinion moves fine with the steering wheel inputs but results in little movement around the centre. Only once a small amount of lock is on does the pinion seem to engage in the rack. It was fine, how does this happen? The adjuster hex is now tightened as much as it can be and there's no play in the ends of the rack

  6. You'd have to get under the car and get a multi meter onto the electrical connections under the floor. If theres power them maybe your fuel pump is dead (unlikely) but if not you'd have to start asking why and trace the fault back up the wiring loom.
  7. Tested the new thermostat and it seemed duff too. Until I boiled it in the pan that is. So the old one was fine.

     

    I ran the car back up to temp and up to over temp and still on fan. There's plenty of power at the switch so it turns out I've a duff fan switch after all. Now off to find the right switch

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