Mcalvert

I had the same problem which I cured with the following information posted on the Sevens list: Where the column enters the rack, at 90 degrees to the column there is a big adjuster secured with a lock nut. BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, mark the current position of the adjuster (to the lock ring and to the rack body) using tip-ex or some such substance. You can then loosen the lock nut (big adjustable spanner) and adjust the mesh of the rack and pinion (Allen key). Because tightening the lock ring changes the meshing slightly, you have to move the adjustment by small amounts tighten it up and test with each adjustment. You shouldn't test for slack, but for the onset of *noticeable* friction. Mine needed adjustment of about 3mm at the circumference of the adjuster (hence the tip-ex mark). The tip-ex also means that you can remove the adjuster entirely to have a look at what it does inside the rack and get it back to approximately the right place to start the fine adjustment. Testing needs as little mass as possible to be attached to the system. You can do this by knocking the rod ends out of both steering arms and taking your wheel off. It would be better if you didn't have te column attached, but it is not entirely necessary as it has a low moment of inertia. You can do all of this with the rack in the car. Testing involves moving the rack through its range of movement by pushing and pulling on one track rod. The friction in the system is much more apparent here than at the steering wheel. You should ignore resistance at the very ends of the rack travel as the compression of the boots starts having an effect, with air wheezing in and out. The majority of the travel should be free running. Adjust until you feel the friction and then back off by the width of a gnat's tadger.

There are valve stem seals which can be used even with the double springs. James Whiting fitted some to my 1700 Crossflow fairly cheaply last year. Regards, Michael.

I had exactly the same problem recently and adjusted it out with the pre-tensioner nut as suggested. It has made a fantastic difference - I hadn't realised that the steering had been getting slightly sloppier as time went by, but now it's perfect. The only problem I found doing the adjustment was finding a big enough socket (32mm from memory?). There are other possible sauses for play - check on the 7vens mailing list archive and you'll find pages of advice, Regards - Michael

Standard Caterham rollbar for a de Dion car going free (donation to NtL would be nice) if anyone can use it. I'm in Berks. Regards, Michael.

John - Yes, Caterham do a spacer kit - about £14 if I remember from a few years back. Michael.

Caterham list a "Replacable spare wheel Carrier" on their race car option list (Have just placed a deposit for the 2002 Academy - whoopee). Anyway, it may be worth following up with them. Regards, Michael.

I don't suppose that any of these computers have timing facilities that would allow you to get an estimate of lap times are there?