Expat

JK: Only problem that I'm aware of is failure to start on some occasions. Last time I had this problem I must have tried at least six times, with a suitable pause between attempts. On the seventh attempt the engine started as though nothing had happened and then ran faultlessly for about 50 minutes until I switched it off. The battery voltage must have been well down by the time it started so I think the only cause can be a poor connection, earth or otherwise, So far multiple attempts to start have always resulted in success. My only fear is that one day it won't and I shall be left stranded with a flat battery. Damo V: Looks as though I'm off to my local Ford dealer on Monday for a spare sensor and bit of plastic.

Update on Duratec non starter. I think I have eliminated the immobiliser. Leaving the fob/transponder in the kitchen the following sequence of events takes place: Insert key – Position 0 - nothing appears to happen Turn to - Position 1 – nothing appears to happen Turn to - Position 2 – nothing appears to happen Turn to - Position 3 - nothing appears to happen (Let go and key jumps back to position 2) Push “START” button once – Lights on dashboard (except direction indicators, hazard button and alternator/brake warning button) all light up. Pump can be heard priming. A high pitched whine (around 10 kHz) from the electronic ignition suggests that that is working OK. Push “START” button again – Nothing changes. Engine does not crank. Push “START” button a third time – Ignition switches off, all the lights go out. Shift lights all light up for about half a second and then go out when “START” is pushed for the first time.. Incidentally why are there six LEDs here? Approximate layout is: O O O O O O Currently they all seem to be set for about 3600 rpm. Which is a little curious except that it corresponds to the Autoroute speed limit (130 kph) in top. Haven't yet worked out what the one on the left is for. If immobiliser transponder is fetched from kitchen and waved under the dash near the key then second push of “START” gets the engine to crank and, usually, start and run normally.. I have checked the battery voltages which are as follows: “No”load - 12.54 V Ignition on – 12.24 V Cranking – 9.6 V Engine running – 13.44 V (Climbs to) this seems to about right so I don't suspect the battery or its connections. The probable cause would seem to be a dodgy earth, connector or transducer somewhere, finding which which will probably occupy my waking hours for the foreseeable future. Where do I look for the crank sensor? What publication am I likely to find in France that might tell me about the Duratec? Which model Ford is it used in? Many thanks to you all for your interest and your assistance. If I ever identify the cause with any degree of certainty I will post details on TechTalk so watch this space!

SM25T: I'm about 20 km north of St Tropez as the crow flies (it's about 40 if you stick to the road!) and roughly 10km NW of Draguignan. Caterham Competition is in Alès, which is 280 km away, but they are shut for August.Well this is France and their answering machine did wish me a happy holiday! sjmmarsh: raised my hopes there for a minute; even went to look at the car as I have been driving around with half the tonneau over the passenger seat and that side of the dash is not very visible. No joy I'm afraid; still no sign of a red LED.

Well many thanks again. Looks like my weekend is now fully booked .I shall soon be the world expert on immobilisers in Sevens. All I need to know now is how to fit a red LED. It would make things so much easier. Maybe its already there? Does anybody have any idea where they may have hidden it? Can't see it in the speedo. Maybe its so faint it can't be seen. All the other lights are very faint and can only be seen with the garage doors shut and the lights off! I don't want to try to run the engine with the doors closed. I might go deaf. I shall also look at the fuel pump, the ignition and a few other things. If none of this leads anywhere I shall have to try to explain what is going on to my local Ford dealer! Many thanks especially to JK for the picture. I would have put it up myself, but I can't remember how! tbird: Your description of starting up exactly matches my experience - when it works. The problem is remembering what happened when it doesn't. Wish me luck PS Who is going to be first to open an "Auto Center" (that doesn't shut for August) in this neck of the woods?

Many, many thanks to one and to all for very useful replies. SM25T: Yes I have a fob to wave around under the dash, but no LED of any colour that I have been able to discover. It is certainly not on the dash. This (the dash) can be seen on the handbook downloaded in pdf format from: http://uk.Caterhamcars.com/ mine is identical to that shown in Fig.3 on page 11 apart from switch 6 being missing. No LED! John Aston: French insurers don't seem to be bothered if one has an immobiliser or not they just charge a fortune. Let me have details of how to get rid of it and I'll follow the instructions to the letter. JK: Photo of fob on: http://www.scorpionauto.com/home/products/STERLINGEXCEL this seems to fit the bill, but ,although they talk about a red LED I can't find one. Will try to measure battery voltage this weekend. The problem with digital voltmeters is that they don't follow the actual voltage very quickly. Will have to unearth an oscilloscope! Garry7: My car is also of 2012 vintage. First registered here 28/12/2012; Looks as though I shall have to practice my waving and/or find a LED. Will listen out for the click. Fuel pump runs, but engine then starts. Will have to remember to listen out for lack of fuel pump being followed by no start if you see what I mean. John Vine: See above.Mine cranks like mad, but I don't know if the immobiliser is active or not. Where is the fuel pump? If it were an earth problem would there not be problems with the engine cutting out on tke road?

Bought an R300 last week. Picked it up on Wednesday and when I stopped to refuel it refused to start again. It took about ten attempts and then off we went as though nothing had happened. Engin is presumably a Duratec 2.0l producing 175 HP. It has refused to start on two subsequent occasions, one of which was with a cold engin, which seems excessive. Symptoms are complete lack of response from motor when cranked. Very occasionaly while cranking it has sounded as though one cylinder was trying to fire for about half a second then this stops. Keep trying and eventually it starts The handbook downloaded from the net doesn't help – even the picture of a 175 installation doesn't look quite the same as mine. I've tried waggling all the connectors I can get at but this appears to make no difference. Any ideas? Could it be the immobiliser? What is an immobiliser anyway? And what is it supposed to do?

There was an article in the July issue of Low Flying detailing a mod to fix this problem. Don't touch the starter motor!