techbod

Thanks for the reply. Yes it looks like the penny washers etc are the main culprits. I'll see if CC do replacement top hats and rebuild it all. It would be great if it made it a more precise change. As far as the grease nipple goes - I've wheeled the car up and down the drive several times whilst looking at the UJ with a torch and I can't see anywhere that remotely looks like a nipple should have been there. As its a solid floor car its all fairly clean in there so there isn't really anything to scrape off to look under. I suppose if I get onto CC parts and find a picture of the UJ with the nipple it will give me a clue as to where it should have been. At the moment though I'm leaning more towards the 'sealed for life' theory . cheers

Whilst I've got the tunnel top of, I'd like to see if I can do anything to tighten up the remote gear change mechanism fitted to my 4 speed box, as its fairly imprecise - not quite stirring soup but getting there... There seems to be some play on the gearstick end where the linkages attach. Its possible to move each linkage sideways a few mm. Is this correct? It looks like I could remove some of this play with a couple of washers, but obviously don't want to if it supposed to be like that. cheers

Having finally got round to taking up the carpet and removing the tunnel top (LA with solid floor) to grease the UJ - I can't find a grease nipple. I've looked carefully, to see if one has fallen out but there is no sign that might have happened. So where should I apply grease? Or should I not apply it at all as I can only apply it on the outside of the joint and it will just attract dirt... cheers Edited by - techbod on 17 Jun 2008 18:45:58

Yes you are right, it wouldn't matter about the extra height if I had a pair- but I only have one of these Matching it may be a bit of a problem... cheers

Thanks all round Its seems then that mine is probably about the right width but is taller than the standard type fitted to caterhams. I wonder if I can get the triplex glass cut down to size? cheers

Can anyone tell me what the correct dimensions are for a brooklands aeroscreen as fitted to their caterham? I've got an aeroscreen that isn't marked brooklands and doesn't look quite as wide as the ones shown on the Caterham site, but its hard to say. Excluding the round sections that hold the legs and wingnuts etc, the aluminium frame is approx 305mm wide and 'sticks up' approx 95mm at each end. From the top of the curved glass to the bottom of the aluminium frame is approx 178mm. How does this compare to a 'proper' one? cheers

Polished aluminium (at least the back was) with BRG wings, standard roll bar. Earsldon area of Coventry about 12:30 Sunday 9th March

Thanks for the replies. I didn't buy the ebay one - the last one I saw on ebay was the earlier type which won't fit on mine. (My Colchester came with the wrong top slide and at the moment I've borrowed one). I'll chase up those two links thanks cheers

Looking for a top slide for a Colchester Student MkII lathe (also fitted to Master MkII I think). With or without tool post. It needs to be of the later type with the round base marked in degrees and the fixing holes 4" apart. cheers

Sunday 3pm ish, car park for Go-outdoors, Canley, Coventry

Saturday Feb 9th Green with clams very approx 2pm Marton/A423

In case anyone wants the last 15 issues of low flying, let me know or its recycling bin for them... cheers

Blue with light coloured stripe, by the Memorial park about 2:30 Sunday afternoon going towards the city centre.

Green caterham (with no windscreen) going South on the A423 in the Marton / Princethorpe are. I was the red one going the otherway . Today, Sat 6th Oct sometime after 5pm.

Hi Chris, YHM cheers

Hi Silvercat YHM cheers

Hi Silvercat, yes the doors are still available. I will be away now until Monday, but when I get back I'll drop you a blatmail and we can sort something out... cheers

Hi Andy, YHM

Oil pressure light comes on at *just* over 1 bar - is it considered preferable to have it trip higher? Say 1.5. I'll give mobile 1 a go and see how the car gets on. cheers

Thanks for the replies. Dangerous this measuring oil pressure stuff. I went out at about 9:30 this morning to find out what the gauge read when hot and cold. Its now 2 pm I've a sunburnt head and the petrol tank is mysteriously empty. Anyway when the engine is cold and just turned on for a few seconds, I get just below 4 at idle and just above 4 at 3000 rpm. (with no load - just a press on the accelerator) After the engine is warmed up to normal operating temperature it get about 3.5 at 3000 rpm (this isn't the max oil pressure it reaches) and just over 1 at idle. After some enthusiastic testing I get just below 3.5 at 3000 rpm and just below 1 (red light on) at idle. So - make the move to Mobile 1 or stay with the magnatec 10w-40 because it al looks ok? cheers

The car is an '89 1700cc xflow. When the previous owner had the car, the engine went bang (some kind of oil loss issue) some 5000 miles ago. The engine was rebuilt and upgraded by a known engine builder and has been going fine ever since. I have stuck with the oil the previous owner recommended, magnatec GTX 10w-40, as it is what the engine builder told him to use. However once the engine is hot, the oil light tends to come on at idle and over the last few weeks, on the hot days its noticeable I don't have to be giving the car any stick before the oil light comes on at idle. The engine seems fine, no strange noises, smoke, rattles - it just seems once warm the oil pressure just dips below the warning point at idle. I'd like to track day it but I'm concerned that the current grade oil may not protect it since the engine is going to get hotter still. I have read through the numerous thick, thin, fast, slow, oil posts in the archives and still haven't reached a firm conclusion about what I should do- so I'm posting. Mobil 1 15w-50 seems to get a thumbs up, so that is a candidate, but sometimes I do have the odd cold starting issue so I don't know if going from 10w to 15w will make that worse. As its seems to be on a BOGOF at the moment, what about the halfords 5w-50? is that just completely out for an xflow? Is there anyone happily running their xflow on this grade? cheers. Edited by - techbod on 9 Aug 2007 22:32:19

Hi adbett. YHM cheers

I asked her, but for some reason she didn't seem that keen ?

Girlfriend has decided to move in and apparently its not reasonable to keep spare 7 stuff in the dinning room, so its all got to go.... (or perhaps offers on girlfriend instead?) All from 89 live axle xflow long cockpit car. Pre S type adjustable cloth seats with runners, no headrests. Good condition, no rips or tears but both seats have sun fading on the back section - you can see where the harness straps sit. £100 pair. Old style doors (no mirrors) . £40 pair Spax adjustable rear shocks. £20 pair Standard xflow silencer with heatshield and rear exit tailpipe. At some point the silencer has had the rear bracket replaced. £40 Boot cover (for standard roll bar) £15 Standard roll bar £small donation to NTL Pictures of the seats, shocks and doors can be found here. If you want pictures of the other bits let me know. Prefer pickup from West Midlands or possibly Surrey area's. Thanks.

Just in case someone might find the following useful: 2 x Quantum 15/30 SCSI DLT internal tape drives. Model TH3AA, pulled working a couple of years ago and have sat around ever since. 2 x 250Mb internal IDE Zip drives with 5.25" adaptors. Again working when removed from PC and haven't been used since then. Compaq Deskpro EN PIII 1Ghz, on board VGA and LAN. Full width desktop case. Not exactly the latest and greatest but runs quietly and fine for some kind of always on linux streaming music or similar server (its been my mythtv box for a couple of years). No hard drive, you'll need to add your own. All free to anyone that find them useful, but pickup from West Midlands/Warks area only. cheers