Mankee

Has anyone got one of these kicking about gathering dust? I'd like one to slap on a spare overheated block so I can use as a mock-up to make a better alternator mounting bracket. Cheers!

Spotted just now as I was heading back to Ipswich. Black/dark with the plate R400 MRH or something like that. Looked like an SV possibly but not sure as I had a howling 3-year-old in the back of the car robbing concentration from me!

Here's a good guide:

http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/rear_brake_pads.htm

For winding back the pistons, I've just used the two-pronged tool from an angle grinder.

That is loud! What instrument did you test it with?

Found a few more bits that I don't need any more.

SFS silicone heater bypass hose in red, which goes between the thermostat and the coolant rail. It might possibly be long enough to cut and be used in a heater install. It has a joiner and two Jubilee clips near one end as I modified the coolant circuit at one point and then changed back again. Worked perfectly and leak-free until I removed it earlier today. You need Jubilee clips for either end, but I might have some new ones of the right size that you can have. The closest equivalent I can find on Caterham Parts is a short-ish piece between the stat and the heater, here. Picture here. £20

I've got a couple of dash panels from pre-96 K-series cars, one from my own car and another from a club member bought to use as a template for a new dash. Both are a little modified from standard but still do the job fine. One has a bit of yellow paint in the top-left corner and the other has some white paint in the top-right. Please state which one you would like! Pictures here and here. £20 each

My fronts are upside down as I run post-96 length dampers on a pre-96 front end with 2.25" ID springs so needed to invert them for clearance. Actually, just remembered, all my Bilsteins are in a box under the stairs now!

Do... not... need... alloy... maincase... must... resist...

Yes please to both, Peter! I'll send you a message. Cheers.

And the wait was worth it; 235 bhp and 170lb/ft of torque! What's more, it sounds glorious! I'm a very, very, happy boy!

B'stard!

BG Developments have the uprated AP master cylinders on the shelf:

http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/

You only need one terminal and one wire seal per pin that you want to add. You really ought to use a specific Econoseal crimping tool for the job, but when you only want to do one or two terminals every now and again, it doesn't make sense to spend a tonne of money on a tool. I will probably get shot down in flames, but I've just used one of those generic multi-crimping tools and they work fine.

If you want, I can crimp a few terminals for you with some tails of whatever colour I can find in my box of chopped looms. And then all you have to do is shove them in the back of the housing wherever you need them.

They are just Econoseal pins and seals:

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/connectors/ecu-36-way-connector-inc-pins-and-seals.html

I must have a shedload of these somewhere, so can hoy one or two in the post to you if you like.

The tool for an angle grinder also works well. But if you aren't touching the rear pads and only doing the bleed, then you shouldn't need to wind the pistons back? You can just push the front caliper pistons back in by hand.

MGB533 is the correct pad shape for the standard Triumph front calipers, although there is another pad shape that offers a slightly larger swept area. I'd just stick with MGB533 shape and make sure you order the 1144 compound.

I'd also go with 2 litres of fluid so you'll have some spare on the shelf.
 

Hi Brian. Yes, all yours! I shall drop you a message shortly.

I've had this kit for a little while as I was going to rebuild my ZF LSD. But I've not had a ZF LSD for many months now, so it's just clogging up my shelves! It's this kit below:

http://www.bearingkits.co.uk/ZF-GEARS-FOR-CATERHAM-7-SIERRA-LIMITED-SLIP-DIFF/120.htm

My kit also contains the thrust washers as well as a new set of bolts for the rear cover of the diff casing.

Pic of the actual bits: here

Asking price: £100 inc. delivery.

Still trying to have a clearout for new projects!

Or don't forget Bedford because I really like the place just for a tank about and don't go full blast past the noise meters until you are confident you know which ones will cause a problem with your car. You can still give it 100% on the big long straight on the south side of the circuit away from the residential areas.

There are four drive-by noise meters, nudge nudge wink wink...

Check what calipers you have. If it's the standard Triumph setup with 232mm solid discs, you can't go far wrong with discs for £12 a shot from James Paddock and a set of Mintex M1144s:

http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?searchtext=208715

http://www.whybee.co.uk/mintex-mgb533m1144-mgb533-mintex-m1144-racing-brake-pads-fast-road-track.html

A good bleed with fresh fluid won't go amiss either.

Will the EU3 engine loom plug straight into the EU2 car loom? If so, do it Andrew's way! My loom is actually an EU1 thinking about it, but it really is in a bit of a state.

I'd do what I normally do; buy it and then worry about how to get it up and running later.

It seems a great value package for the money. I'd be tempted to keep the engine loom you currently have and see where you need to go from there. If EU2, do you run a distributor and leads? I used to, but then my new engine was EU3, so I modified the wiring loom to use wasted spark. Coolant temp sender should plug straight in, as should crank and throttle position sensors. I don't run an intake air temperature sensor or lambda sensor; the former should be the same plug and the latter is fine because you are reusing your exhaust system.

Hopefully someone else can fill in any gaps I've missed out.

I assume that you are wanting to chuck in the DVA'd EU3 engine from the For Sale section? The Emerald will plug straight into your EU2 loom for a start, which is useful, although the engine comes with its own loom.

Mate, your autocorrect is shocking!

But I'm interested in seeing any answers to your problem, although I run a different dry sump pan. Is it possible to use an MG gasket without the Caterham "shelf", such as below:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-LVF100290

Mine seems to have some sort of gasket between the block and sump.

There's one on the UK eBay at the moment:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231935318444

Where is it leaking? I cured a few weepy standard calipers in the past by nipping up the bolts holding the two halves together. New ones are £100 a pair on a popular internet auction site.

For non-Caterhams, I've always been very happy with normal Mintex discs with either normal Mintex pads or M1144s.