LawrenceR
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Everything posted by LawrenceR
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The boot floor does look good! Aesthetics and weight loss.
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Spotted approx 11:30. Two up both with red caps
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Hi Julian, they are m8 x 30 dome head
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My Bolt obsession continues! I have replaced the Ti areascreen bolts with m8 Ali ones. Not only are they lighter, another 4g, but more importantly they are anodised orange so match the car. The other plus it they are much cheaper, so with the Ti bolts for sale I should soon recoup the cost.
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Can you copy me on that mail as well Julian. Thanks Lawrence
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The banner has to go, but, given the car is brand new I can't bring myself to ditch a perfectly good battery........yet! I guess I could sell it but not sure a second hand banner is worth much.
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Thanks for the advice Jonathan. Having had a little read I don't think will exchange the few grammes saving for the head ache required to achieve them.
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I have just made a less economical weight saving purchase than you Julian! I changed the blots that hold the interchangeable aero screen on from steel to titanium. Two bolts £3 each, giving 3g saving per bolt. Total saving 6g @ £1/1g. This is getting silly! Fun but silly. I should be able to improve on this a bit however, the bolts I have bought are m8x30. At most they need to be 20mm long so I will shorten them when I get the chance. Is a bench grinder the easier option? Or does any one know where m8x30 are needed, in a low stress operation, are on the car?
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Julian, I know what you mean but I think I could live with black ones. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-Nylon-Plastic-BLACK-M5-Bolt-Screw-COUNTERSUNK-PHILLIPS-12-16-20-25-or-30mm-/291243188837?var=&hash=item43cf726265 now I just need to find what size is needed.
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I guess the piece of ply was flammable, unless treated.
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Or will nylon be strong enough?
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RH rear wheel arch now secured with nylon nuts and bolts 0.068 kg saved cost £2.50 ish I will do the left when I have a bit of time and it is not beginning to rain! My legs were hanging out of the garage.
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As I understand it (happy to be corrected and learn) Foam filter: Generally lower inlet temps Greater air flowAir box: Quieter
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"This is fun isn't it" Yes, in part I bought my car as it a hobby. Building it was great and I just see this as an extension of that. A bag of nylon M5 bolts arrived today, I am going to see how much can be saved by replacing those that hold the rear wings on. Furthermore it should, help protect the side skins if I ever hit anything with them. In addition, having taken the wedges from the fog/reversing lights it look as if their bolts can be replaced too.
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One way to remove the seat is to cut a slot in the end of the bolt that extends through the nut, under the car. This can be stopped from rotating with a screw driver whilst you unbolt.
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A few more grams tonight The wedges in front of the fog and reversing light 0.05 kg each The dash IVA trim thing 0.188 kg (no markings on my scuttle) A total of 6.66 kg saved so far.
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I do like the gear knob. I am trying to do this next phase as cheaply as possible but have to ask how much? (Not to worry I have just seen your cost/g) I do remember seeing, perhaps in low flying, someone who machine radial grooves in the standard gear knob, if mine wasn't black I would be tempted to try. Lawrence
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I have been in the garage for the last 30 mins and have saved nearly 0.5 kg for no cost. As suggested I now only have one horn. = - 0.286 kg Tiny bit of remaining IVA trim = - 0.015 kg Engine lifting eyes and retaining bolts = 0.181 kg i am thinking swapping the boot carpet and the wedges behind the fog and reversing lights next. Lawrence
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Good idea on the anti slip matting. I even have a roll of it in the garage. I bet it is a lot lighter. I don't think you have to remove the roll bar to remove the boot floor. Let me know how you get on with your ply replacement; do you know what it is called?
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I might remove my boot carpet, but I believe the boot floor is part of the crash structure so will leave those in. Any ideas for a light-weight alternative to the boot carpet? The only other carpet is on the transmission tunnel, but given my car is a duratec I think I might need to keep the thermal insulation properties.
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Hi Tom, it is a Duratec so no engine mount to remove unfortunatly. Jonathon, A bit of Healthy Competition sounds like a good idea. I will have a read of the link and come up with a plan; i have allready been approached by a anthermember looking to lose a bit of weight as well. Regards Lawrence
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I did not have mats in my last one, so have no plans to replace them. If the soles of your shoes, or the floor is wet then then it can be a little slippy but not excessively so.
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After spending a bit of time in the garage today I have cut 5.9 kg from my car. Removed both rubber mats -1.4 kg Fitted Raceco exhaust - 2.2 kg Removed Cat 2.3 kg I now need to remove the same from my waist! Somewhat harder I think.
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Wow when midlands did mine (PBC and IVA) in July, I picked it up afterwards with 8 miles on it.
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Sorted now, thanks all. On the connection block, on the back of the gauge, the terminals were marked up S, +, and, earth. I wrongly assumed the S was sender and + live. In actual fact the + is the sender and S the live. I had not noticed the two wire into the S. One is power to this gauge and the other is power to the next gauge. I had connected live to the one leg of the switch then the centre leg back to live, hence it worked with the water temp but not with oil as there was no power and the sensor return was connect to the live terminal of the gauge via the switch. swapped over and all working as it should. thanks again all
