Alastair B

Sim, less than 2m from previous archive postings is what I based my purchase on.

OK, if fuel pipes good, no replacement. If I need fuel hoses then find out where to buy the good stuff in a smaller quantity.

So I have bought some a short while ago as I suspect my fuel hoses are 21 years old! Will be taking a look over the weekend to assess the condition, not so sure now to replace if all looks OK. I bought this from these folks.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-Rubber-Fuel-Injection-Hose-Petrol-Pipe-SAEJ30R9-7-6mm-5-16-I-D-Diesel-UK/251175712377?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I read the guide for cars built 2003 onwards so that appears to cover your observation

In front of the oil filter attached to the same casting make up piece

Thanks - every day is a 'school day, especially on Blatchat!

Was browsing the Caterham parts and came across these, where do these rubber stops fit?

4 x per car apparently

£2.60 VAT incl. £2.17 VAT excl. Reference: 12664*5

Don't think I have them on my car, to do with SVA?

Hi Nick you have a BM

Very belated BTTT

Found the CAT part number, stamped onto the CAT external case; For the Blatchat archives....

No Audi rings/logo markings, just the following part number.....

KEMIRA 80850 9809684

Internet searches does not reveal any more useful information as to the part number usage in other vehicles, no linkage to this part being used in an Audi, that I can find.

Options;

1. Try to sell.....not hopeful

2. Speak to recyclers if the KEMIRA part number means anything to them

3. Leave in garage, gathering more dust!

This got me thinking.....the CAT from my 1999 car could be the same as the current separate CAT used for Duartec's and Sigmas?

As title....

A standard stainless exhaust from a 1999 K series litters my garage and it has a built in CAT. It is OK condition, but these exhausts don't seem to sell. With the price of rare metals rising I figured I could raise a few quid by going to a suitable recycling yard. This is proving to be a bit more tricky though. The places want a manufacturers part number, to figure out the market value - supply/demand and constituent elements I presume. I know the Caterham Part number and the Cheesman Part number, but this is for the entire exhaust assembly, not the CAT. I have called Cheesman and they refer me to Caterham, contact Caterham and the deepest they seem to be able to go is to re-quote me back the part numbers I already know, not a technical specification or manufacturer of the CAT. So I am stuck.

Anyone had success following this recycling/scrapping path? Or knows more about the CAT specification?

PM sent

Quill drive from gearbox could be damaged to make consistent readings unreliable is most likely, then Speedo drive cable most likely next culprit, then the small 90 degree transfer gearbox and finally the instrument....these are probably in the order of cost as well, good luck

You can adjust the QR mechanism so that the lever still faces downwards and change over the buckle which undoes when twisting, thus allowing the buckle to be against the tunnel, which is definitely what you want

Saw and waved as we were going into town and you were leaving

Agree, it is a simple enough modification to the pedal box and you should have peace of mind not to have to take the engine out soon. You can do the whole job in an hour and that is not working fast.

Are you sure that is not inside out? Thought the exterior was black with a silver lining.

Not me.....but good blatting road that down to Fenny Drayton

I have the same problem, have bought some upholstery contact spray adhesive and I am working out how to do the job. Should I use a razor blade and cut down one side and spray, leave to air dry with some kind of 'props' then join back together carefully. It is the making good the edge of the cut that will probably be the hard bit and the measure of a how good a job you have done. Interesting to see how others have done it.

interesting discussion. In large overload situations like the elephant the tyre distortion could result in a small volume reduction with the tyre distortion experienced contained to a degree with the sidewall stiffness, and a corresponding small pressure increase and Revilla in this regard you are correct.

I think in a regular road tyre situation the temperature effect is more powerful and for the size of load increase for the capacity available in a touring scenario the likely pressure increase would be quite small and possibly negligible, .....the test as JK suggests on a 7 would be great to know about.

Meanwhile a video demo here of this very principle on a

In response to AdamQ...."stick an elephant in the back of a Seven, and I'm sure the tyre pressures will increase"

That is not correct - pressure will not change, pressure is affected by Volume (V) and Temperature (T)....as in the Ideal Gas equation you quote (n- number of Moles and R - gas constant). You might deform the tyre forcing it off the rim, but it would let go through the seal breaking not a pressure overload.

You could support the bent tube inboard of the brazed joints, thus taking th bending moment away from the braze?

If you are going to change and stick to electrical I would recommend remotely mounting the sender so to avoid the engine vibrations that eventually destroy the sender unit. Remote mounting kits are covered here in the archives.

Ibought Remote T-LMA095/2: 0.5M - LMA095/2Remote T-Piece Kit M12 from LMA automotive, think they do club discount too. Mounted on one of the straps holding a horn unit, kept one horn operational.

I am presuming you were using the closing action of the jack to apply the force? So restraining the jack from coming off the floor and 'tieiing' it to the bent chassis bar would be required I presume? Asking as I quite like your idea and I have a bent bar as well.