Jon Stewart

Try SVC http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/category/lenses---assemblies/

I'm currently looking at this too.

I spoke with Rob at Ratrace on monday and he currently has a two weak lead-in and will need the car for 3/4 of the day.

I haven't used them before and as far as i can see the alternatives are a fair journey away.

Thanks again Doug.

I was using a fair bit of force but the most I could get over the lip was about a quarter before it would pop off - ill try and have another crack today. 

Colin, the boot went on easily - it's the inner end that goes over the lip on the rack that's the problem.

i managed the loose fit which got through the MOT retest yesterday.

Thanks Doug.

I had a crack at this last night but couldn't get the inner end of the boot over the lip on the rack. The new boot seems much tighter and comparing with the old would suggest it tapers slightly.

any tips on getting this on?

On my dry sumped Vauxhall i just remove the spark plugs and crank.

If you remove the OP sender how will you know when you have pressure?

I've checked in the archives on how to replace a steering arm boot but there are a number of broken links.

Is it as straightforward as undoing the lock nuts on the end of the steering arm at the extension piece (on widetrack) and sliding a new boot on?

I spoke with the garage this morning and i've been told it won't be a problem

I'll be taking a copy of this with me.

He certainly wasn't a new boy!

Is a factory built car still considered a "kit car"?

I'll give them a call later and pack the laptop just in case!

I went to a Blatchat recommended friendly MOT station.....

The signs were good good when i saw a BSA bike and a mk2 Cortina in the workshop!

The 7 failed its MOT at the weekend and one of the points it failed on was the C02 emissions.

It's a '91 car with an a freshly re-built Exon built XE running throttle bodies with a DTA S40.

Looking at the DTA manual i understand i can trim the fuel using the live mapping option.

Is it as straightforward as that?

Also, looking at the MOT manual under section 7.3 Exhaust emissions it states "for emission purposes only, kit cars and amateur built vehicles first used before 1 August 1998.....are to be considered first used before 1 August 1975" which would suggest it's a visual only check

Has anyone any experience of this?

Thanks.

Edited because i can't read...

Thanks all.

Managed to get it sorted yesterday and traced it back to a blown fuse.

I think it must have been me fiddling with one of the units trying to straighten a copper tab.

Typically it was the second from last fuse i checked and they're a PITA to check with an under-dash handbrake and ECU in close proximity.

Yes - had them on dipped and double checked.

I also tried cycling the switch a few times just in case but still no luck.

I tried other bulbs including the original but the other lamp still wouldn't come back on.

Yes definitely two fogs.

It's a '91 and doesn't have a reversing light.

The unit is the one under the filler and i had a good look at the unit  but it looked in surprisingly good nick.

I thought i would give the 7 a once over in advance of its MOT tomorrow and noticed a rear tail light and fog light were out.

I replaced the tail light light bulb and that was then ok but after replacing the fog light bulb both fog lights are now not working.

I'm a bit of a numpty when it comes to electrics so all advice will be appreciated.

Thanks.

I've also got the CP2340 type caliper and use the DS3000  FRP218R pad type.

There are a few photos in this album Alan

http://plus.google.com/u/0/100408799597966585898/posts/ioiA8y6JdF6?pid=6029895867244356978&oid=100408799597966585898

Ian,

i've sent you the email.

Jon

Mark,

The AIM Strada is the road legal version.

I received an email just yesterday with details of discounts on the Dash2:

"Save 20% On DASH2 + Button Set + ECU Interface

DASH2 complete road legal and race ready dashboard kit, with remotely mounted control button set and an ECU interface. The backlit transflective LCD display is clearly visible in all lighting conditions. The fully configurable display features ultra-bright shiftlights, road legal warning lights, 5 screens of data and configurable warnings.

Simplify installation using an ECU interface. Take engine sensor data directly from the ECU for display with minimal installation and wiring. Compatible with most aftermarket ECU types click here for details.

This DASH2 + Buttons + ECU Interface package is offered at the discounted price of £488.00 + VAT"

I can forward the original on if it's of interest.

Jon

http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=592

http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=591

Where did all my nice spacing go?

If you go too long you run the risk of hitting your knuckles on the underside of the dash.

You might find you have the small lever extension piece and i remember it being a faff finding a suitable gearknob.

Can't help with the thread size as i changed to a quaife box some years ago but the quaife gearknobs are good and available in different threads like this here http://shop.quaife.co.uk/gear-lever-nylon-gear-knob-3-8-unc-thread-791

Just had a chat with the engine builder.

One of the valve springs (Kent doubles) has broken and the valve has broken in three.

The valve head dropped into the bore but i've been lucky and damage has been the least you would expect in this situation.

The engine has done 109 hrs since a full rebuild which was mostly a trip to the Alps with one track day thrown in. This is on a 250bhp engine (steel rods, crank etc).

Should i expect more out of this?

What would be a reasonable rebuild schedule?

I thought I'd make sure and I removed the battery in anticipation!

I did think the cable was going to weld itself to the battery post though...