Johnty Lyons

Have to agree with jason Laminova on a K is the dogd donglies

Oil warms up quicker and stays in kilter with water temp all the time.

Whereas a cooler could mean your oil on normal usage takes too long to get up to safe operating temp

You need to be careful I know a se7en owner who thought the nipples where caps that you screwed out before applying the gun to the resultant hole. I jest you not

He's also brilliant at wiring.

As you are probably aware all MOT testing is carried out in N. Ireland by DVA [Vosa]

in Gov test centres NOT garages This is particularly arduous especially in modded se7ens So the N.I Se7ens Club invested in one of These (Not exactly this model) it has been worth its weight in gold 😬

 

Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 14 Mar 2012 20:16:32

 

Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 14 Mar 2012 20:18:48

I use a BIG Pela650 simply because we have about 5 of them in workshop at work and they don't seem to give any bother.

Ellie is correct the capacity is about 7lt and it should be filled with engine running to just below the top seperator plate Emptying is easiest done with a Vacuum oil sucker. Thats how I've done mine for last 5 yrs.

With defference to a couple of posters above WE are talking about a K here the stat of which unlike 99% of other cars is in the return leg So its mainly affected by ice cold water from bottom of rad The bigger and more efficent the rad the worse the problem also the earlier and later in the season the worse the problem.The only thing keeping the stat open is the by pass cct [which because of its height relevant to rest of water cct I'll agree is prone to Air Locks. What should happen and what actually happens is not always as seems. Experience shows that Ks with race rads can and do suffer from over cooling at certain times. The poor ole stat just doesnt get a chance to stay open as it should.And the engine can suffer from thermal shock as a result don't even start me on Mk 1 Elises they are a blinking nightmare.

Sorry Guys Rant over.

What Dave said common problem if outside air temps not absolutly blistering like 2005 in Texas you need to block off 1/3 of rad its being too efficient

Yeah see other threads MOT is changing in line withEU regs and will be more thorough Mine got an advisory at end of last year on 3 points that in last 14 yrs have never been mentioned.

Yep they are all connected to the side light cct in otherwords Dashboard illumination.

BUT the law requires that there is visual indication when the Fog Light is on. Thus the conversion mod.

Correct just an advisory but a lot of cars on SORN will be being tested post March.

And yes just stick on speedo glass

Mav is correct 1/4 sq drive minature ratchet spanner I keep one in tool roll especially for the job.

Yep all early cars where like this I had same query last year and have just corrected it.

Lever the sw out of the dash, if necessary ease the loom behind to allow you access.

To the side of the sw NOT in the white block you will find two wires one black one red/white.

Remove the red/white one and pull as much of it as you can towards yourself, Cut it and insulate the end going into the loom. With the bit you now have strip back about 1/2 in of insulation. Now the trickey part there are two wires going into the white connector one is red/Blue [feed from dip beam] other is red/orange [feed to fog light] Carefully strip a piece of insulation of the red/orange wire and wrap the thinner cut stripped end of your red /white from sw round it . Apply a little solder and insulate carefully, and reconnect to Switch. Reinstall sw in dash. Job done.

PS be carefull you may also be pulled this year on lack of dual MPH/KPH marking on speedo This is also a fail and there is no suitable MPH/KPH replacement from Caterham It can be rectified [as I have done] with a set of MPH/KPH transfers from ebay.

 

Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 2 Mar 2012 22:07:08

😬 Brise IMHO works for me.

Wot he said 😬

Ive never run an engine in. Hard brake every time.

Mineral oil fully warm and full of the clock.

Change oil lots.

After 1K of this treatment change to Synth.

Job Done

Replace the engine mountings they are too soft.

Wanted for S3

And herin lies the Rub Some Believe? Yes they might, BUT very very few stop at 170! Once you start you go on. There is no point in denying it It happens ALL the time,

reflashing the original Mems is a great idea for a mild power upgrade BUT its more than 1/2 way to the cost of a fully programmable ECU with which the boundries are limitless. Yer pays yer money and takes yer choice. IMHO and I've been around the se7ens community a long time the only way fwd is as I've posted. I've seen and heard too many sob stories.I took advice from our Dave back in the days when he was a Computing Co Director and fiddled about with ECUs and heads as a hobby. He has made a very successful carreer move with DVA Power with 100s of satisfied customers. I would recommend anyone looking to upgrade to have a chat with him at least, It will cost you nothing and possibly save you a lot of grief and cash.

Be very carefull once caught Upgradeitus is very hard to recover from it is a condition that gets progressivly worse. Many of the upgrades you mention lead you up a blind alley with a dead end The only way out is to remove the conversion and sell it on. I always recommend looking at a 5yr plan of where you want car to be and follow a path towards that step by step.

FWIW I recommend an ECU conversion as a first step that on your std car with nothing else bar a set of verniers will transform your car. I can heartily recommend DVA he wiil guide you down a sensible path. I've had my car 15yrs now and the very first thing I di was to swop out the ECU that gave me a firm base to build on. I have no regrets and a very highly converted and tuned car with more Power than I can use It took many yrs to get here but I have had a ball. Best of luck. Keep er Lit.

When stat is fully open on your drive the bottom hose should be uncomfortable to grasp.

On the blocking of rad question[ I have a triple pass race rad and a Laminova] I use a piece of card in depth of winter blocking off up to half of Rad wedged in place Assists rapid warm up and steady running temps I alo have a dry sump with large oil capacity The Kidney tank s behind the rad so is lagged to retain heat.

 

 

 

 

Simple Faulty Pump Change it.

In the situation Cagey describes I agree completly No air passsing through rad whole system should warm up nicely Fan should cut in and out and temp should stablise. That is however not the situation I understood you posted, which is the Sit Rep I refered too.

It's not a stuck stat its a typical K situation the rad is working so well its only letting a little cold water in via the bottom hose [thats why your rad is boiling at top [where fan sw is]] and ice cold at bottom. During winter driving in these conditions I block off the bottom haff of rad to allow more water to circulate Believe me it works.Dont forget the stat is triggered by the by pass hose feeding scalding hot water round top and back of engine this is mixing with ice cold water from bottom hose causing the stat to cycle Give the por thing a braek and increase the temp of water slightly by blocking off your huge [for these conditions] heat exchanger. 😬

Ye'll get no feckin flack from me lad.

Hurray fer the aul Black and Tan. 😬

repeaters are both an IVA issue and are MOT testable especially under new MOT rules My car was built in 97 and has passed MOT every year until now without repeaters BUT failed it's last MOT because they wher missing It also failed on operation of the fog light sw which onmy car had internal illumination with side lights on instead of indication on switch on Another issue with older cars is now lack of dual marking of kph and Mph on speedo.

The Std Banner has little reserve capacity. For a regularly used car this is no problem, however a little used car will struggel in winter on short journeys with all auxiliarys turned on, as the starting drain is not recovered sufficently and alternator is putting most of its output to running aux ccts and precious little left to recover battery 99% of time battery is fit for purpose So why fit bigger /heavier battery for 5% of usage. Just manage it.

JJ