John Downard

Fully Charged Show (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGoT6e-Mobw) - This item may be of value in clarifying the complex topic of battery chemistry and properties in relation to vehicle propulsion.

T'was me on the way to a MidSx breakfast blat RV. I had several waves from non-seven people that morning, which was was nice (better than a waved fist of disapproval for rural serenity busting rorting DCOEs and loud exhaust!).

I didn't know adjustable spring seats could be retrofitted, I assume you mean these (or equivalent)... http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=285 I wasn't expecting 300lb springs (accepting that the C20XE cast iron lump makes the car heavy up front). I'm not looking forward to getting the current units off as from my last tentative go it felt like the bush sleeves were rusted onto the bolts (a common issue I understand), any tips on this aspect?

Paul, it's a 1995 HPC that has been wide tracked by the previous owner (extender nuts on track rod and damper top mount). The top mount is shared with the through bolt of the top wishbone, from what I have seen later cars have a separate suspension mount slightly higher up with a correspondingly longer eye-to-eye- length. The springs seem very short and almost coil bound under static load. The presumably original Bilsteins (I believe) have only crudely adjustable spring seats which are already on the highest position and the damper travel looks minimal before the bump stop comes into play. I don't know what rating the springs are, I believe paint colour should be an indicator(?), they are clearly blue but there is a trace of yellow underneath. You can see in the second photo that the bottom wishbone is not level. If a suitable spring rate could be figured out I was wondering whether longer (free length) springs using the lower spring seats could be used to achieve a more suitable ride height. Clearly new coil-over units would be the best bet, particularl as these have no damping adjustment either. All constructive views welcomed.

I'll be interested how you get on with the QED plate, it might need their pick up pipe also(?)

Via a friend in the AWD/LandRover community I was recommended an artisan aluminum welder. After thorough cleaning, grinding out of cracks (known & discovered!), clamping up longitudinally & laterally, heating up the whole casting, several TIG beads were laid (inside and out). The result is good and perfectly flat across the mating face. The sheared M6 screw came out easily enough, and it's all back together now. I needed to do an oil change anyway!

I used a 711M block as the basis of a 1700 Twin Cam back in the 80's. Bored to 85mm with Hepolite pistons (into which I cautiously machined valve clearance recesses). I recall that the Ford blocks had a casting suffix which gave an indication of the casting thickness, the thicker wall being the safer one to use (can't remember details, may be Googleable ~ results suggest this was an urban myth).

Thanks for the helpful comments, it's off and after inspection doesn't look easily/safely repairable, gaping 3" vertical crack spreading as a hairline for a further 4" along the base. The side wall has actually distorted and the first M6 bolt had sheared, it would need clamping up prior to welding, any views?

Eeek!! £400... I'm hoping its repairable. On that topic, is it aluminum or magnesium, I assume the former and TiG weldable with appropriate filler material, 4043 or 4047 seems to be the concensus. Any views, experience and success stories?

I new my suspension was sagging (& non adjustable) with a very low ride height and now the inevitable has occurred. Returning to the right side of the road after an aggressive overtake, under heavy breaking induced dive the sump had a catastrophic impact with an old school cast iron cats eye. It looks as if the Caterham alloy sump on the VX XE engine should be removable without taking the engine out, however with all the allen bolts removed, including the two large ones into the bell housing, it doesn't want to split. I have previously had the engine out and separated the gearbox but can't remember if the two bell housing holes had locating sleeves (effectively dowels)? Question: will the sump come off in situ? Does it drop straight down or does it have to come forward first to clear any locating dowels? Any thoughts/assistance would be gratefully received.

Open hyperlink in 'new window' or 'new tab' would be useful so you're not navigated away from the site without a convenient way back.

Jon, will you place the scanned version on this site somewhere for others (such as me :-) to benefit? Cheers JD BRG HPC Edited by - JohnDownard on 29 Jul 2014 14:36:44

Phil, I'm interested in the Webber Alpha 3D Ign ECU for my 95 HPC, when you say various bits, is it all the bits necessary to fit, i.e. throttle poisiton sensor, etc? Do you have any literature/installation/setup instructions? Thanks, John

Lee, do you have the high ratio pedal? I don't know what pads I've (I've only done 3k miles), probably easiest to change to a known quantity, what do you use? My issue is that it needs two pushes on the pedal for confident braking (firm pedal). I figured larger capacity caliper pistons would be better suited to larger volume MC?

Paul, I've only just found the time to carry out the TerraTrip PCB mod you recommended, your documentation/instructions were spot on... the result... all interference gone! Thanks. I note from your website that your (base) 7 is the same as mine (HPC), what master cylinder do you now have to complement the big brake 4 pot setup? Previous owner of mine had fitted Caterham big brake upgrade but standard MC, I am dissatisfied with pedal travel and feel, advice?