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alan7

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Posts posted by alan7

  1. Phil

     

    The light switch has 3 connections

    Brown/Blue from the ignition switch & feeds the flasher switch

    Red feeds the side lights, rear lights & panel lights

    Slate feeds the main lighting relay

     

    The 3 position switch works as follows

    1 = off

    2 = turns side lights on (Red) + panel lights (Red/White)

    3 = Keeps the side light on + activates the lighting relay (via the Slate wire) to give power to the dip switch via a Blue wire.

    Replace with an Off - on1 - on 1+2 toggle switch

     

    The dip switch actiates either the diped lights (Blue/Red) via a 15A fuse No. 9

    OR the main beam headlights (Blue/White) via a 15A fuse No. 8 - this wire also provides power to the rear fog light via a 5A fuse No.5

    Replace dip switch with an on-on toggle switch

     

    The flasher switch is fed from the ignition switch (Brown Blue) & activates the main beam headlights via the Blue/White wire.

     

    Colours are from an 1998 K series EU2 so the colours may vary from yours, sounds complicated but it's not.If you blatmail me I'll send you a wiring diagram.

     

     

    How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH

     

    Edited by - alan7 on 25 Jan 2011 00:15:30

  2. I did away with mine & comdined the pod indicators & side repeaters into one unit on the nose cone, much neater & also meant I could lower the headlights a bit more here

     

    How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH

     

    Edited by - alan7 on 8 Dec 2010 12:57:39

  3. I've just re-wired my lights & used the headlight bracket retaining bolts as an earth rather than the mass of black wires all attached to one place. Better earth & easier to trace any future problems.

     

    How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH

  4. Just taken the Scuttle off OMG *eek* the dash must have been wired by an Italian - there's so much spaghetti *confused*

     

    Q1 the unplugged black diagnostic plug - is it needed or can I take all the wires off? I've traced the wires to the immobiliser, fuel pump fuse & "engine diagnostic" plug.

    Q2 the wiring diagram shows an "engine diagnostic plug" - any idea where it is?

    Q3 all the earth wires go back to the wiper motor mounting bolt - is there a better place so I can reduce the cable run?

     

    Bound to be more Q when I start digging deeper.

     

    Thanks

    Al *eek*

     

     

    How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH

  5. EU2 engine wiring loom.

     

    Complete apart from the Crank Sensor connection, which is missing.

     

    £50.00 + P & P of free collection from S Wales

     

    *wavey*

     

    How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH

     

    Edited by - alan7 on 22 Oct 2010 15:36:15

  6. SWMBO has bought an overlocker (sewing machine) in Lowestoft.

    Seller's hubby works in London.

    Anyone over there capable of bringing it west from either London or Lowestoft? alan3½ lives in Brackley so I could pick it up from there *wavey* *thumbup*

     

    How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH

  7. Try this:

     

    Fused power supply to PB switch (From your old light)

    Output from PB switch to pin 85

    Power supply from headlight switch to pin 30

    Earth to pin 86 (From your old light)

    Dipped headlight supply to pin 87

    Main headlight suupply to pin 87a

     

    PB ON = the relay coil is powered & pin 87 is connected to pin 30

    PB OFF = the relay coil is NOT powered & pin 87a is connected to pin 30

     

    Hope it helps

     

    Edited to add

     

    Yes, the (+) & (-) from the light you no longer use should be adequate BUT it will only be live when the side lights are switched on & the rest of the guage lights are on.

     

     

    Edited by - alan7 on 6 Oct 2010 00:43:48

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