wild bill

I presume you mean using a bolt and nut Guy?

7 Wonders, i'm not sure that will achieve the ease of the access holes in the scuttle being threaded. If i'm going to do this the aeros need to be removable from externally IYSWIM. I can't see how those items achieve this, although i'm fairly stupid so i'm probably missing the bleeding obvious.

Damn n blast.

Looks like it's rivnuts for me then........

i was looking at these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372228875618?chn=ps&var=641079227297&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=641079227297_372228875618&targetid=1278608950976&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=1006734&poi=&campaignid=14727339348&mkgroupid=127909237815&rlsatarget=pla-1278608950976&abcId=9300672&merchantid=7262424&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgP6PBhDmARIsAPWMq6lpC6tqHTCR9cTOCQCTzFQvu5AmrHPhIkrg5f_9tzOTSVBFA3M3bbsaAhW_EALw_wcB

Sorry about the cut n paste.

They're ally

I used to run an aeroscreen in carbon but hated the lack of visibility in placing the car so i sold it. I have 2 perspex race screens so was wondering about drilling the scuttle and fitting rivnuts. These are a pain to fit unless you have the correct tool (when i rebuilt i did all mine with a borrowed rivnutter but remeber being a bit stressed by it akthough all went well in the end due to lots of practising). I've now seen jacknuts which achieve the same result without the need for a rivet tool. I want to be able to swap back to full screen relatively easily. I do not want to buy a clear aeroscreen for £160 odd quid when £10 of jack nuts will achieve the same (yes i'm a miserly sod)

Question is has anyone tried jacknuts? and how were they?

I'll give it a try when i get a free mo and see where i get to

interested in this thread as since rebuild i have the same issue. Nothing has changed in the ECU so it may be poor earth or resistor or switch settings. Does the tach need to be removed to check the switch settings? or do i have to invert myself with a torch?

7 Wonders i live in Somerset, there are no road imperfections 

Hadn't thought about it TBH as it has never activated in 60000 miles. Is it simply a matter of disconnection and joining the feed?

There you go!

Trying but problems. New iPhone which saves photos as HEIC format and this is incompatible with BC. Working on it JK

I find Demon T expensive as a rule but with discount it might work out OK.

I got the powervamp cage then re-sited the battery on the shelf behind the Banner tray (above passenger 's knees so to speak) and the ECU sits on the cage. It's neat, easy to remove and disconnect (i rarely do as i use the car all year) I always meant to use the old Banner space for a tool kit but have been too lazy to bother.

I run a PC680 in a cage. It's my second one. First lasted from 2006 until about 2011 and the second is still going. I remain impressed.

Thanks Rob. I had a feeling you might know the answer. Hope all is well with you and yours

2.0l does nor fit 2.3 from my research so far in UK. This may of course be hogwash you just never know these days. That part no is US not UK as welll byb the look of it. This is stumping me atm

As thread title i'm struggling to locate the right part. Its a 2009 2.3 Duratec and my timing chain cover has a crack (slight but weepy) so i need to replace it. Is it the same as the 2l cover? is there a ford part number anyone knows? Heeeeelp

Yes but with the deep knowledge i have of myself i'll f88k it up guaranteed

Thank guys. I think this is going to be beyond my DIY build skills si it's one to do on next service. 

No the timing chain cover is definitely leaking oil David well a slight weep more like. I'm not sure if the crank has a keyway hence my question. Is there a way of finding out?

My cover has a hairline crack so needs replacing. 2 questions

1) can the crank pulley be undone to get the cover off without disturbing the timing?

2) Does the cam cover need undoing and then resealing?

Depending on answers i might have a crack myself or give it to someone who knows what they're doing

Succeeded. took old lower bolt. Wound on nut about half inch up. Used bech grinder to chamfer a taper to end of bolt (slight), unwound nut to rethread end of bolt. Used adapted bolt to line up thread. removed and used new bolt. 

From memory the top eye is even more painful than the bottom but if it coimes to it i'll loosen . I'll double check the thread.

I've searched tech but the search facility just doesn't work for me so i give up. I've had to fit a new lower wishbone to my car after a small disagreement with a wall. All OK, usual pain as ever. Now trying to refit the bottom damper allen bolt. It's through the damper but i cannot get it to thread in to the wishbone. Is there some magic trick i'm missing here.  Very exasperated so going to sleep on it (the fitting methos not the damper)

I've tries jacking/levering gently with alot of protection etc etc. It can't be this diffuicult surely. I have done it a few times before and maybe i have a rosy memory but it's never been this hard.

Thread is fine

Very accomplished musicians.  Couple of bangers on last of a kind. Have you read the comments section in that link? 

Who ate all the nik naks? Whoever you are the shed rules are if you take you replace.  you know who you are. We don't. Grrr

Aah yes that band. I like some of their later stuff. Last of our kind great for rockin down the highway. If you like that sort of cheesy heavy rock. They've definitely improved. From memory a very able guitarist. We could ask them to play a gig in here. So they'd be 'The Darkness' playing in the darkness. maybe some fairy lights to lighten the mood.

Oh and I've put a low alcohol beer in the fridge and turned it on. Unsurprisingly the light doesn't work. I've also put some monster munches and a curly wurly on top of the old B&W telly if anyone wants a feel around.