wild bill

Ozzy

 

I had a 1.8 supersport 138 bhp and upgraded last year. Car now at 188 bhp according to Emerald and is still tractable in town etc. I had new Emerald ECU Jenvey throttle bodies and VHPD head with a mild port and piper 285 cams (i think)as beyond this bhp i think i'd be rebuilding more regularly according to those in the know.

 

I'm now fitting interchangeable aero screen and half doors and then i hope i'm done as the car really is quite different and more grin inducing despite the wonga spent i wouldn't go back

Yep

 

I think it's the roads mind you wheelspin in 5th and 6th at reasonable speeds did surprise me which is why i thought it might be the clutch however yesterday no sign of slip at all.

I have a 1.8 k series six speed with LSD with VHPD head and Jenveys plus Emerald ECU pumping 188 bhp according to Dave Andrews and car is now running very nicely, however at about 6500 revs it seems like the clutch starts to slip(either that or i'm getting wheelspin which i seriously doubt but possible with the roads as they are at the mo) The clutch isn't gone but i think it's going

 

If i'm replacing the clutch what should i be ordering as i know feck all. I'm pretty certain i don't want a lightweight clutch or a racing need replacing in 2000 miles clutch but one that will stay the course for a reasonable mileage. Any advice. Presumably i'll need to order a replacement CRB as well

 

Help needed

another vote for CTEK from Hamilton i have one and it's brill

where is Mary Hinge when you need her

engine is revving to 7400 before cut off with limiter at 7200

 

Engine is supersport (or was) but i don't know if this is EU2 or 3

 

Rob is back tomorrow and we have discussed this. His view was that the engine should be fine, my only reason asking was because it would seem silly not to do it if cost was reasonable and as head is off. As i understand it there is no reason to take engine out to sort this and i have easy access to a hydraulic ramp but i'll bow to knowledge on here as to what's best.

 

Edited by - wild bill on 9 Nov 2005 11:30:40

Well the VHPD head is off at the mo so i thought that now would be the time to put some forged pistons in as it will save on labour charges however 2 questions

 

I run 1800K with emerald ECU and Jenvey TB's Piper fast road cams and verniers so a theoretical 180 -190 bhp

 

1) Do i really need Forged Pistons, i know many of you have run this type of BHP through standard K blocks for 2 or 3 years without incident however i also know Oily reccommends forged over 160 but what's the reality without being anal

 

2) Where is the best place to get these pistons and rods if that is the decision and how tricky to fit

I have asked the company that produced this airbox for comment as obviously the problem has cost me and Rob both time and money and only by luck did it not shag £1200 worth of head.

I emailed them yesterday morning and am awaiting a reply, i am led to believe that Simon Tidmuss and Dave Jackson amongst others have both experienced the same issue.

I am unwilling to slate someone's product especially on a forum like this until they have had the chance to have their say and resolve the issue but if you have an airbox i would suggest you check bits are not coming loose as better to do this than have a partial or worse rebuild

 

 

 

Edited by - wild bill on 3 Nov 2005 09:44:10

When nthe upgrade was done a shiny new airbox was fitted and a piece of this fell off and was then sucked in to number 2 ☹️ However it would appear that damage is not too bad and i would like to say a big ta to Rob Walker who came over and spent an evening getting the head off to locate the problem.

i bought one here and it's brilliant. Call them they are very helpful i use mine for the vw bus battery which is off for 8 months a year

 

here

Rob Walker is due to come over and remove the head this week to establish exactly what has caused the prob. No compression in Number 2 and something has mashed the end of the plug ☹️ but until it's off it's all conjecture but i am really missing being on the road still i'm sure it'll be sorted in a couple of weeks or so

 

Bill

Katy

 

Have you tried

a) Stilts

b) Stack heels 😳

 

I'll get me coat

so

 

when the bottom end comes off what piston set up is going to give me reliability coupled with fast road use, i don't need to rev more than the 7400 max it's at at the mo and i don't want to be refreshing every few thousand miles. I am maechanically sympathetic so i never rant the pants off it until warmed up properly but might as well change bits whilst i'm in the mood and the long winter evenings loom.

 

 

what about putting in a stronger crank as well (not lightened as these are just too rich for me at the mo and car is not for racing only the odd trackday) this must be worth doing

The rev limit is the same as it was with the original supersport conversion but i kinda knew it would eventually give up. Rolling road showed 163 bhp but they are usually 10bhp lower than the rollingroad at emerald. Compression test and sump off is first then i'll go from there. Come on then, how much are forged pistons and what else will be worth doing for reliability. I don't need more power. I'm starting to get upgrade excitement but i'd better not tell the wife

That was what made me think '3 cylinders firing maybe i'ts just a broken piston' as they are not forged. Engine has been treated well by me (not thrashed from cold oil changes frequently etc etc) but who knows what went before. Never mind it's only a bit of metal and at least i can afford to repair it. Also if i get stuck in it'll get my mechanical knowledge up

 

 

 

 

Charlie

 

When car was started on Saturday evening it sounded as if it was running on 3 cylinders

 

Upon start up this morning the car starts with difficulty and then there is an intermittent clank from somewhere inside but the engine is still running. Turned it off very quickly and didn't rev it at all

 

Phil The garage owner has had a listen and thinks it sounds like the bottom end but without getting it into bits i won't know, however if it means a new bottom end (which presumably is a worse case scenario ) i was wondering about cost and is it worth upgrading to a stronger set up to deal with the current horses and any i might add in the future

No not yet so it may not be as bad as it sounds. Having driven it it sounds like engine is running on 3 cylinders however i won't know until i get the thing apart exactly what the prob is. At least it's winter time so i can take time over it and i live bang next door to a garage that does alot of work on Sevens so they can get the thing apart and diagnose exact prob. Mechanic has listened to it this morning and says it sounds like bottom end. Still this is the joy of seven ownership

GO TO LAST POST I had a good blat on Saturday, went to put car away and it didn't sound right

 

started it again Sunday AM and it sounds like bottom end is gone so

 

Engine was 1.8 Supersport now has vhpd head and throttlebodies car is rev limited to 7400 so how much is a replacement bottom end and presumably it's worth upgrading as the engine will be out anyway, What sort of damge am i looking at where is the best place to source the bits

 

Edited by - wild bill on 2 Nov 2005 16:34:56

Spray white spirit from an old hand spray gun onto old waxoyl, allow to soak in, jetwash off, apply new takes about 5 minutes and as has been said life is too short so do it when escaping the wife's nagging as its preferable to beating her to death with a spoon and will extend your life

What used to be a 1.8 supersport 97 on an RARB is £88 plus the VAT but how easy to fit, someone has said i need to remove the diff to fit it?

I drove all last winter whilst in the first flush of love, i took out shares in Waxoyl because i'd shoved so much in.

 

Over the summer i've used it a reasonable amount but whilst i store my 65 bus (i only take off battery squirt wd40 underneath and in plugs and leave handbrake off and in 14 years she starts first time , everytime after 7 months stored) i really am with the drive it lot, what's the point of storing it when there's all those fantastic winter days, salt? down here in the west about twice a year these days.

 

I'd use the bus more as well but it's just unpleasant in winter as it has no heating and it's too fragile

In several pieces after it became dislodged from the car at Castle Combe trackday on Friday rather aptly on the kink known as Folly. Have now had most of the contents returned including cheque and the cash. All cards have had to be reordered and 2 have dissappeared completely. All my receipts have tyre marks on them. I even ran over it myself a few times without realising it was my wallett

Johns

 

i checked inside the clutch cable boot cover last night and the arm does move a bit from side to side but that's all and i couldn't for the life of me see how to stop this from happening as even with a torch it's black as night in there so i am no further forward.

Good post as i have exactly the same vibration behind dash which stops if resting foot gently on clutch pedal and its alot less pronounced since fitting a new cable but clutch pedal bounces against foot as you go to depress clutch. I've no idea what it might be and though it was possibly a knackered return spring so i'd be interested in the outcome Johns