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gwiddicombe

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Everything posted by gwiddicombe

  1. Thanks for all the replies. Willie, yes the indicator does go higher when I rev it harder. It's never really gone above about 4, but it continues to do that at higher revs My Caterham Build Diary available here
  2. I know from reading on here that the standard oil pressure goes faulty on occasion. I have a Rover 1.6 K with about 5800 miles on the clock. I took the car for a spin today and noticed that the oil pressure is reading lower than normal at idle. It normally reads about 2 bar at idle and has done since new. Today at idle, whilst standing at the lights after a drive I noticed that it was reading about 1.5bar at idle. The warning level on the dial is between about 0 and 1 bar. If I rev it to about 1300-1500rpm it goes to the usual 2 bar. The levels seem okay and it's not leaking oil as far as can tell. Should I be worried? My reason for this post is that I'm on the WightBlat next weekend but haven't really got time before then to fit a new sender. My Caterham Build Diary available here
  3. Whilst I was eating me cornflakes, it occurred to me. Is it due to the fact that although the filament doesn't appear to be blown, it probably is? Because the bulb is a double filament one, when I put the bulb in the other way around the filament that isn't broke lights up? My Caterham Build Diary available here
  4. Forgive the stupid question... 😳 On my 2008 Rover Caterham, I've had the drivers side rear brake light go twice. When I've come to replace it, on both occasions the filament doesn't appear to have blown. The bulb itself can only go in one way round due to the pins, but again on both occasions if I try the bulb in the other way to make a connection, the bulb lights up[1]. If I replace with a new bulb, it lasts ok certainly for a few weeks. Any ideas 🤔 [1] I haven't explained that very well, but for the avoidance of doubt, I don't mean that I'm trying to put the bulb in upside down 😬 My Caterham Build Diary available here
  5. Good point....I'll do that. Thanks. My Caterham Build Diary available here
  6. OK - thanks. I've just ordered one from Caterham, and I'll look into providing a stop too. My Caterham Build Diary available here
  7. My car has been on the road since the end of July 08 and has covered about 4500 miles. The clutch cable snapped today, resulting in me having to call out the AA The AA chap fixed the cable with a grub screw, but I need to get it replaced with a proper item. Can someone point me in the direction of where to get one from, or is the Caterham one the best one to get? I'm not sure why the cable snapped, but it failed at the pedal end, right by the cable eye. Last time I checked it (a couple of months ago) there was 'play' in the eye which meant I could move it easily. However, today the AA guy had to forcibly prise the eye out with a pair of pliers/pinchers, which I'm guessing is what caused it snap. My Caterham Build Diary available here
  8. OK - thanks all. I hoped it was something like that, but thought I'd check here. My Caterham Build Diary available here
  9. My car (1.6K Series, De Dion, standard brakes, 08 plate) has recently started developing a problem in that the rear wheels are locked when I drive away after the car has been left for a few days. I may have only just noticed the issue as the car is not used daily at the moment, whereas it was up until a month or so ago. When I say 'the rear wheels are locked', I mean that they are locked slightly when I very first pull away so that it is noticeable, but are then immediately okay. The car is garaged over night and left with the handbrake on. Is this something to worry about, or is it just one of those things? Cheers, G My Caterham Build Diary available here
  10. Thanks all. I've ordered the Optimate...hopefully it''ll do the job. My Caterham Build Diary available here
  11. Hi, I'm looking to purchase a battery conditioner, and there are a few on e-bay and from searchin on here the Optimate 4 appears one of the ones to look out for. I just wanted to check that this is okay. Does this seem genuine? There are loads on there around this price - it's a 'tecmate' Optimate 4. My Caterham Build Diary available here
  12. I'm probably getting the terminology wrong here, hence no luck with a search. Where do people buy their front number plate "stickers" that they stick to the nose cone? What I mean is, rather than using a traditional number plate, some cars have the regsitration number on a sticker that is attached to the nose cone. I hope that makes sense.... My Caterham Build Diary available here
  13. OK - I was hoping this would be a simple fix. I called Caterham up and they sent me a new plug and washer. Fitted them this evening, but the thing is still leaking Any other ideas? The leak is definately coming from the plug, but the new parts haven't cured it. I'm hoping it's not the sump that has cracked near the bolt. Could it have been overtightened after it had been serviced? How would I prove it if this is the case. I don't really want to go to the expense of a new sump incase that doesn't solver the problem.... G My Caterham Build Diary available here
  14. Must Type Faster - I think (I had to Google it though)?? 😶‍🌫️ My Caterham Build Diary available here
  15. RJ - do you the size of the plug? Where do you get the VW ones from, or do you go into a dealer? Had a quick look at Halfords website and they have different sizes, but no specific VW ones it seems. My Caterham Build Diary available here
  16. Had a great run out yesterday for the welsh Blat (my first one!). The car has now done 1500 miles and is a Rover 1.6 K Series. It developed an oil leak returning home yesterday, which it hasn't had before. The run home involved a constant speed of 70ish for 100+miles, which the car hasn't done before. Yesterday all together the car did about 500 miles. It had it its 500mile service and I noticed that the oil was overfilled after it, but thought nothing of it at the time. Here is a pic. The oil seems to be coming out from this bolt, which on the left hand side of the engine. I've checked the tightness of the bolts, and they seem okay. You can see from the that the tray underneath the car has quite a lot of oil in it from being left overnight. Is the overfilling related? Any other advice? Regards, Graydon My Caterham Build Diary available here Edited by - gwiddicombe on 18 Aug 2008 11:31:45 Edited by - gwiddicombe on 28 Aug 2008 19:34:06
  17. For info, Caterham have said that I don't need any documentation for this as the immobiler I have was fitted by them I.E., it isn't an aftermarket immobilser. My Caterham Build Diary available here
  18. I was wondering that - the build manual mentions the long one as being the 'front' one though, hence the confusion. Thanks....I'll have another look. My Caterham Build Diary available here
  19. Probably not the most difficult technical problem ever.... However, something I hadn't tried (I just assumed it would work!) was putting the rubber bonnet catch covers on for the SVA. Can someone remember what their's looked like - mine don't appear to be able to fit as they're too small. Are the bonnet mechanisms standard across all models? Some pics available here. G My Caterham Build Diary available here
  20. OK - I've got in touch with Caterham and someone will be calling me tomorrow to go through this. I'll post the response here. My Caterham Build Diary available here
  21. I'm just going through the documentation in preparation for taking the Caterham to its SVA. In the documentation from VOSA, there is mention of ESVA (catergory R) and it talks about a "certificate of installation" from an approved installer of an immobilser. I've looked through the documentation I received from Caterham on delivery of the kit, and I don't have this. Do I need it - I assume not, but wanted to check. The full quote from the VOSA website is below, for info: In the case of a passenger vehicle subject to ESVA (category R) having a date of manufacture from 1 October 1998 you must also present an original certificate of installation from an approved installer for an immobiliser that meets the European Directive requirements. For vehicles manufactured from 1 December 2001, this will need to be a certificate from either a Vehicle Systems Installation Board (VSIB) accredited installer or from the Mobile Electronic and Security Federation (MESF). My Caterham Build Diary available here
  22. Just preparing my car for its SVA and I've noticed that the front indicators below the lights foul the cycle wings when on full lock. Is this normal, and is there a work around? Would it pass an MOT or SVA like this? Similarly, when it is on full lock the rear of the cycle wing touches the body, but the indicator issue is more a problem as it throws the indicator out of alignment. Cheers, G My Caterham Build Diary available here
  23. OK - thanks all. I know this is all basic stuff, but what size cable should I buy if I plan to use a 10A fuse. One of the sites mentioned 17A, but Maplin only seem to have 15A and 20A. What's safest to go with? My Caterham Build Diary available here
  24. Thanks. I've seen both of those links, but my specific question is what in-line fuse holder to get. Is it a blade one, or one like the link I posted in the orignal message? My Caterham Build Diary available here
  25. The car is virtually finished now, but I'd like to wire in a cigar lighter/power socket. Just trying to confirm the bits I need. At the moment I'm looking at this car socket. Searching the forums, there is mention of an in-line fuse. Can someone confirm what type I need? Is it this? What type of cable and what fuse would I need to protect this please? My Caterham Build Diary available here
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