Andy Whittle
-
Posts
431 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Andy Whittle
-
-
Thanks RJ and John
After a lot of cutting and pulling I managed to get the MFRU apart. Loads of glue/sealant holding it together which makes me think it's been apart before .
Cleaned all the relay contacts and hey presto! I'm back in action
Interestingly enough the resistance across the fuel pump contacts wasn't very high before I cleaned them. It just shows that it doesn't take much to stop it working, especially when you take into account the length of cable and numerous connections the current has to flow through to get to the pump.
Now I have to put the car back together, but first I'll check and clean all the earthing points .
Cheers - Andy
-
Following a problem starting my car after the Poole Quay for my Car event a couple of weeks back I have been trying to find the cause of my problems.
Basically the engine was cranking fast but not starting. Eventually it started and idled without problems. I then pulled away only for the engine to die and again I had problems restarting but eventually it kicked into life. Since then I have not been able to start the car at all.
Car is an R300 (1.9 Scholar K-Series), with MBE ECU, Shurlock EP100 immobiliser (now removed), battery master switch, Brise starter motor, etc, etc
Fault finding carried out thus far:
Checked ECU fuse
Checked ECU plug is seated correctly, checked for damaged pins - none found
Checked fuel pump fuse
Checked fuel pump connector
Checked and by-passed the inertia cut-off switch
Checked/cleaned grey engine loom plug
Checked the battery master switch, seems to be OK
Checked battery is fully charged and holding charge (also tried using spare battery as booster)
Jump-started from another car (read in another thread)
Re-programmed immobiliser keys
Un-installed the immobiliser completely
Continuity checked from fuel pump socket to the grey engine loom plug
Other observations:
When the ignition is first switch on the fuel pump doesn't sound like it's priming
When I measure the voltage across the fuel pump connector and turn the ignition on the meter reads +12v and then falls to zero.
When cranking the engine the meter reads 12v at the fuel pump connector
The fuel pump runs if connected directly to the battery
The car will run with a direct connection to the fuel pump, it will also run if +12v is connected into the relevant side of the inertia cut-off switch
I've taken the cover of the MFRU and the relays seem to be operating correctly for starting.
I could power the fuel pump from a direct feed via a relay but this seems like a proper bodge job
What more can I try? Any pointers most appreciated…
Cheers - Andy
-
Sold to the man with a Caterham and an MX5 Gleneagles 😬
-
You have BM
-
Hi Phil, is your style bar still available?
cheers - Andy
-
Could anybody recommend a good place to buy top quality needle files please?
I guess Swiss made would be better than Chinese/Taiwan made?
cheers - Andy
-
I saw this on eBay, not mine, sorry if it's already been posted....
Edited by - andy whittle on 3 Feb 2013 20:47:17
-
@ NewCat are you still looking for an iPhone 3GS? Or anybody else?
I have one to get rid of 16Gb, very good condition, on O2 (but without a current SIM).
Same deal as Rich...
Also have a genuine Apple dock and remote for the same for another £15...
Cheers - Andy
-
Thank you Richard, my grill arrived today.
Great looking bit of kit . Now I have to give it to my wife so she can give back to me for Christmas from the kids 😬
Cheers - Andy
-
Hi Richard, thanks for your email.
I have sent the payment and address to your account.
Cheers - Andy
-
Please add me to you list if you are able...
Thanks Andy
-
Sorry if this has been posted before
I have found this site really useful in the last few days trying to source parts from my local motor factors...
-
I would be interested in one set (dependant upon final price)
cheers - Andy
-
YHBM Ph
-
Is this it?
Info here Fortis Flieger Info
Nice looking watch
Edited by - Andy Whittle on 24 Feb 2012 19:27:09
-
Hi DSL, is this now sold?
If not I would like...
cheers - Andy
-
They are just the depressions in the not-so-hard tiny shims; they are about 10mm in diameter. The followers and cams were still good.
Oily measured each one about 5 times, selecting the correct one to get the gap right and gently grinding some to fit. Of course there are 16 to sort out 😬
-
Location of mine;
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v185/Whittler/My%20Caterham/OilCatchTank2.jpg
-
It could be the throttle-body balance; one or more could be drawing more/less air than the rest.
Check out the Roller-Barrel setup on the Minister Power website Minister Power it might help The info can be found in the Customer Support section.
Edited by - Andy Whittle on 21 Dec 2011 22:47:13
-
Oily fixed mine for me in a 1.9K. There were 3 that were very worn.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v185/Whittler/IMG_0433.jpg
It took a long time to do, Oily's patience is amazing
Edited by - Andy Whittle on 21 Dec 2011 23:00:18
-
Hi Skeetsy,
BM sent; 1 x Standard, 1 x Reversed, 2 x K Inside, I x Arch Inside
Cheers - Andy
-
-
I'm interested Doug
-
Maybe you have already done this...
Move the pedal box to the furthest away position
2 Pairs of Wiley XL-1 Glasses/Googles
in For Sale
Posted
Ideal for aero-screened drivers...
2 pairs of WileyX XL1 ballistic glasses complete with cases, cleaning clothes, neck straps, and a spare set of night tint lenses. One set are sunglasses with a purple/blue mirror finish the other are clear - day and night time driving functionality.
Very good condition as I didn't use them much.
Price - £50 for the whole lot including the postage.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v185/Whittler/photo.jpg
Edited by - andy whittle on 1 May 2014 20:49:44