Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

cdt123

Member
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by cdt123

  1. As posted on your blog just now:

    Common ones I’ve heard are as follows:

    Apparently the 160 etc are quite voltage sensitive so benefit being on a trickle charger (that’s what Millwood told me when I had an engine light). Subsequently reset mine and it hasn’t come back since.

    Others I have heard are to do with the MAF sensor, or throttle body (hopefully not that one). The error I had was a voltage mismatch between throttle position and pedal.

    I think if it happens again to me I’ll try replacing the MAF sensor next. 

    On another thread someone also mentioned a faulty ignition switch as the culprit.

    Do let me know if you find any different! 😊.

  2. 4 hours ago, PeterM said:

    Hi cdt123. I can confirm that once I changed the MAF unit I did not have further issues until the car went in part exchange for a 310 kit in late 2019. However, at the same time I changed it I also used a sealant on the joint between the unit and the filter housing. As you know, the joint is a 2-screw plastic-to-plastic affair that comes after the filter so if dirt/dust was getting into the MAF unit to upset the comparison settings between a steady heated element and a cooled-by-air-flow element (its a pretty basic design!) then that is where was likely to be getting in. Hope this helps. Kind regards Peter 

    Thanks for the advice both. Will investigate in the spring. 👍


    @Tiddy7 how did you diagnose as the ignition switch as the problem? Was it an easy / cheap fix or quite involved?

  3. On 20/10/2017 at 20:09, PeterM said:

    MAF Sensor 160 owners may recall an earlier post by me on the 'Calling C160 Owners' post; I had an ECU amber warning light come on back in May. The symptoms are a cough and splutter but the car keeps going and seems to run OK once stopped and restarted, which works every time but the light stays on. In the end it came on 4 times through the year and was twice diagnosed by a standard plug in computer as a discrepancy between the throttle pedal potentiometer and the throttle body position on the 'fly by wire' system; once by an AA man and then as a quick cancel job in a local garage.

    The 4th time the engine died on me (luckily going slow, close to home, with a successful restart) so I thought I had better get it properly sorted. A visit to a Suzuki main dealer was not much help other than they said they have not had probs below 100k miles. A query into Caterham elicited an admission that they had to change a couple of throttle bodies on early 160's. I expected a similar diagnosis from a full and deeper diag session by a qualified auto electrician, so was surprised when it showed that the Mass Air Flow device (gizmo on front of the air filter body) was reading low. I have no idea why the MAF suddenly started to read low; it could be heat related (it always seemed to happen after/during a long hot run) or (more likely) dirt on the hot wire measuring element - which, according to whiz kid mechanics on U Tube, can be cleaned with a special cleaner. I am assuming that the throttle diagnosis was a 1st level effect rather than cause, with the ECU adjusting the throttle body to maintain the right mixture according to the MAF output, and when it got too far out of kilter it set off the alarm.

    I have now fitted a new MAF sensor (£119 from CC online but is a Renault part) and I can tell that the engine is running smoother and acceleration is sharper. I will let you all know what the longer term brings. Meanwhile, there might be mileage in giving yours a clean over the winter.   

    Hi @PeterM - resurrecting this from a while back! How did you get on after the MAF sensor change? Did it fix the issue? I had the warning light come on with my 160 last summer and also read the same code about throttle position sensor vs pedal mismatch. Cleared and didn’t come back again. Just wondering if this is something i should try changing if it happens again when it’s out of storage again.
    Cheers!

  4. 1 hour ago, Tiddy7 said:

    That picture is from the 170 build manual, the 160 does not use an a frame it has two trailing links on each side and a panard rod

     

     

    IMG_6463.jpeg

    IMG_6464.jpeg

    IMG_6465.jpeg

    Ah interesting! Does anyone know what the SuperSprint has which supposedly has a chassis upgrade (+LSD) is? I wonder if the 160 would still benifit from an a-frame if it was possible to fit one or does the panhard rod do a sufficient job?

    Also thanks @Tiddy7 for the photos!

  5. Hi all,

    Has anyone fitted one of these to a 160? Looking at the manual it looks as if it bolts to the diff however having a look in mine I don’t think mine has this bracket.

    https://caterhamparts.co.uk/a-frames/6956-a-frame-live-axle-seven-160-only.html

    Doing some digging, it looks as if this could be the chassis upgrade that the super sprint has. Can anyone confirm if this is true? If so, potentially a worthwhile upgrade for a 160?

    Cheers!

    Chris. 

    IMG_0581.jpeg

×
×
  • Create New...