abbot

Wish I hadn't seen this thread.  I know I have a small copper mallet tucked away somewhere.  It came with my long since dead MGB Roadster for removing he knock on wheel nuts. I feel that I should try to revive it but will have to find it first

Job done

I took a couple of pics

This is the starting point with old gaiter cut off

Using a tippex pen put a white line across the Track Rod End, the lock nut and the track rod.  I then wrapped a bit of tank tape around the track rod up against the lock nut

Put a spanner on the locknut and a spanner on the flat of the track rod. Rotating both of the spanners in the same direction crack of the locknut from Track Rod End.

You can then unwind the track rod from the Track Rod End and remove the lock nut.

Slide the new gaiter on to the Track Rod.  Now fit the locknut ensuring that it is the same way around as when you removed it.  Wind it on till against the tape marker.

Now fit the Track Rod into the Track Rod End and screw it up till the TRE comes up against the lock nut.  You can now use the two spanners to tighten the Track Rod and Locknut up against the TRE.

Grease the ball joint.

For me the next bit was the most difficult which is pushing the gaiter over the body of the rack.

Fit Tie Wraps and trim ends

Job done

I agree but when I started to look for it through search I found mutiple entries and some linked to other threads etc etc which took a while to go through and reassure myself that I had all the info I needed.

For a job that is probably done fairly regularly across the family of older 7s thought it could warrant e section in Tech Guides

I am not sure Steering Rack Gaiter replacement is considered a consumable but there does seem to have been a lot of interest in the subject. 

I am starting the process of changing mine and, to be honest, searching through the past threads on the subject has been a little confusing.  There is some very good information out there but it is spread across multiple threads all cross linked to each other in different ways.

Is it possible for someone with the right skill set to add this as a Topic in the Technical Guides section.

With the current uncertainty of shipments to EU, GJT stay calm, I decided to see if I could get a pair of gaiters here in France. Using the Quinten Hazell QG1001 as a reference the local motor factor got me set from BORG & BECK - Steering Gaiter Set - BSG 3033.  So that can be added to list of equivalents part numbers.

I was out in the rain today and discovered that the plastic insert on the drivers door has broken down and does not give a good seal to the door so got a soaked side.

Looking for a right hand door for standard S3

Obviously would be most happy take one out of your over cluttered garage.

Job done.  Metal top hat sleeve.

The rubbers had gone but nowhere near the degradation of previous swap overs.

I followed my usual process of using 2 narrow blade scrapers and then jack the frame up into position.

Now need to order some replacements to be ready for next time.

so that appears to be option 3 with a metal top hat inner

It has been a while since I last did this job. I am a bit confused about which bushes are needed for the centre A frame.

I have a mix of bushes available and want to make sure I have the correct ones before I dismantle.

I have rubber bushes without any metal element.  

I have rubber bushes with a simple tube through the middle

I have rubber bushes with a sort of top hat sleeve

I hope somenoe can point me in the right diresction

My Feb copy of LF has just arrived.

I should have waited for the article on seat refresh.

Recently been doing a lot of wet miles in my X-flow and I find the intermitent feature very useful. 

Another useful feature would be a wiper on the inside of the screen

Thank you.  No the squab is in good shape so no action required.  I need to do a deeper check on the passenger seat but by definition it should not have had so much wear and tear.

Foam side padding tie wrapped into position 

Then every thing assembled

i added a couple of through threads to pull it a bit tighter.  Not perfect but very happy with the result. It certainly is a lot more supportive than before

if it had been pre brexit i might have gone for a kit but the cost of getting stuff to france is going up,

total cost for parts so far is less than 10 quid

You can see the plastic angle stip riveted down the sides for fixing cover

Missing pics

1st pic is container lid withe ribs and edges cut off to give flat sheet ready to be marked out

2 trick pint was keeping the top double layer flap which allows hooking of seat material at the top

2 pics of finished back plate. The original back panel would have been vacuum formed with angle edges to fix material and and a large curvature at the bottom to fit form. I achieved curvature by clamping sheet between clamps before riveting old sheet on to it 

im now waiting for material to dry after washing will post some more pics of final fitting

also managed to straighten the roller that holds the headrest tight to stop rattling 

I thought I would post some pics of the refurbished activity. At the top you can see the parts used. A large container lid to provide a sheet of plastic, tie wraps to fix to frame and high density foam insulation tube for side rail padding. Not shown is a dead garden chair cover for foam backing

the seat strips down fairly easily   There are a number of points where material is stitched to the plastic so my target is to keep as much as possible of the plastic with material attached and pop rivet it to the new plastic back

just got back from DIY shop.  I have bought a storage bin lid that appears the right thickness of plastic to be able to cut up into a new back panel.  I got some plastic angle strip that I plan to cut and pop rivet/glue to form the edges then tie wrap onto frame.  Funnily in my working career with vehicle safety I have seen thousands of seats  stripped and re trimmed for the fitting and removal of Side Airbag Modules but have never laid hands on before.  At the end of the day there are not particularly high tech.

What can go wrong?

Thanks for that.  I think I will try to knock something up myself 1st.  If that fails then I will call oxted.  I am a bit worried anout the cost and complication of getting bits to france.

I took the seats out today basically to free up the runners so it is easier to adjust.  Then on inspectingthe seats I have decided that the driver seat needs a refurbish.

Anyone done that?

The plastic back panel ha split and brocken.  The foam on the side rails have come unglued and out of position.

So the plan is to get a suitable sheet of plastic and use the old bit as a template. I will need to be a bit creative with my popriveter to reproduce the plastic turned back edges and folds.

Thanks guys, I now see it is weeeeelllllll discussed

Lockdown has lead to me catching some daytime TV and I have been watching the occasinal Wheeler Dealer programmes.  There were a couple of things I had not seen before:

1, There was a Jag where he did a chemical De Coke of the engine.  Involved plugging in a unit that burnt some chemicals in the engine and burn out all of the carbon build up.  Before and after tailpipe emmisions were seriously improved.

2, Today on a TR6.  Replacing the normal water based coolant with some special coolant that did not presurise the system.

Anyone got any experience of either of those?

There is an old thread on this subject

Head Light Adjustment

At my last Control Technique (MOT) the lights were slightly out until the tester gently adjusted them with a nudge

Interesting square stubb axle ends. 

Big shout out for Dave in the spares dept Invicta Ford Ashford.  Late on Wednesday found the correct part did an emergency order and I then picked it up on way back to France this morning. We managed to check if it was right part with a quick look under the bonnet of MK1 Fiesta that happened to be in the showroom. 

For reference Part No is 161 32 92