charlie_pank

Because the spark will be weak leading to incomplete combustion, so it's popping as the fuel burns in the exhaust

 

Edited by - charlie_pank on 19 Dec 2012 09:11:53

Quoting Paul Jacobs: 

 

It's oversquare, plentiful, there are loads of parts-suppliers and they're tuneable to 230ish hp

I wouldn't have thought there was 'much'. Presumably you can use the same mount-points. The most 'fun' you'll have will be wiring and plumbing...

Just to save you some time try pulling out the MFRU plug and reconnecting it. I'm really struggling to think what else would cause the 2 failures you're describing and for my sins I'm a LOT more familiar with the wiring of the K series than most.

*arrowup*Zizackly - furthermore when you find whatever it is they've blown or disconnected, I'd be pretty angry with them for not telling you what they've done!

 

Edited by - charlie_pank on 11 Dec 2012 16:39:06

Quoting Klunk: 

 

If they've disconnected your MFRU that would explain why it won't crank and the fuel pump won't prime. Both the relays for that stuff are in there. You need the MFRU regardless of whether you're using MEMS or Emerald...

Quoting CharlesElliott: 

 

 

Really? I think that's controlled by the ECU NOT the immobiliser, otherwise mine wouldn't work now with the immobiliser disconnected from everything.

 

None of the starter motor connections run through the ECU or the immobiliser. If it's not cranking, it's caused by some other problem. You may ALSO have an immobiliser issue, but the starter motor not cranking isn't caused by it.

 

If you plug your laptop into the Emerald you can disable the immobiliser so that the ECU will happily run regardless of the state of the immob - this will prove to you that it's not the issue!

 

Edited by - charlie_pank on 11 Dec 2012 16:05:14

If we're talking K-series, then I'm pretty sure the immobiliser doesn't have anything to do with the fuel pump. My car started life as a K-series, I converted it to an R1 and I still have the immobiliser in place under the dashboard but it's not plugged in to anything and the fuel pump runs just fine (really must take it out and throw it in the parts bin!)

 

While we're on the topic, the immobiliser has bugger-all to do with the starter motor either, so if it's not cranking, you have some other problem.

 

Edited by - charlie_pank on 11 Dec 2012 13:29:49

Test the temp sender and gauge with a thermometer and a pan of hot water.

 

If you undid the bleed screw while the system was hot and therefore pressurised, you'd get water coming out virtually instantly even if there had been an air bubble trapped there.

You still haven't said how you know it's overheating.

 

You can test the fan switch in the rad by testing its resistance as you bring it to the boil in a pan of water - should see resistance drop when it wants the fan to come on.

 

Note that the fan switch is at the top of the rad, if you open up the bleed screw in the top of the rad, and take it out, then loosen the expansion cap for a second, does coolant come out immediately, or is the rad switch sitting in an air bubble at the top of the radiator?

 

You should be able to test that coolant is flowing without having to take the water pump out - how about turning the engine over on the starter motor for a couple of seconds while the pump's intake is in a bucket of water and the output is directed back at the bucket - you should be able to see it flow!

I see, drill it then.

When building the R1 I had an engine which had been totally emptied of coolant for some time. It took me several attempts to fill it. You need to employ some common sense to remove airlocks, the best thing I can recommend is to loosen all the hose clamps, bleed screws etc..., and then fill the system slowly and do up each hose clamp as it starts to leak, making sure that it is no longer leaking any air, only coolant.

 

As mentioned already, even if your temp sender is duff, it won't cause overheating. That will only be caused by a) lack of coolant somewhere, b) water-pump not pumping enough volume of coolant, c) radiator fan not coming on, d) thermostat not opening, e) engine putting out too much heat due to running lean or being mis-timed.

 

How do you know that it's currently overheating? You know that the system SHOULD be pressurised when up to temperature right?

Cut a slot in the head and use a big screwdriver...

Was it something I said?

pic1

 

pic2

 

£60 +postage

 

Edited by - charlie_pank on 26 Nov 2012 22:58:28

Should hear the IACV resetting itself when you switch the ignition on (before you turn the starter-motor) too. IACV sounds like an-old fashioned floppy-disc drive running and comes from in front of you. Fuel pump is high-pitched and comes from behind you.

Immobiliser stops the injectors from firing so it wouldn't run at all if that were the problem. Sounds like a fuel pump issue to me. When you turn the ignition on, you should hear the fuel pump prime, if you don't, it's a problem! Try to get used to listening out for it so that when your intermittent problem returns you have more info about the source of the problem.

I always want to keep going until I prove the part is faulty rather than stopping when the symptoms disappear. How about boiling the kettle, print it into a garage container that won't melt and dropping in the thermostat before it cools down?

You know how to check a thermostat in a pan of water, right?

Quoting TomB: 

 

Please don't do this. Just the thought of it makes me wince. The rev-limit is there for a reason and the engine is not designed to be taken to it unloaded.

Lifted from my 2002 ex-academy car

Nothing to be scared of, there's no magic involved, just GCSE physics. The air bubbles migrate upwards, armed with that knowledge you should be able to figure out a sequence of filling and hose-attaching that eliminates air locks.

Forced induction?

Do not use radweld, ever. It might well block leaks, but it will coat everything in the coolant system making it less efficient at transferring heat away from the engine. Localized heating is likely to cause serious problems, especially in an engine known for head gasket failure.

 

It's not difficult to remove the heater, but if the matrix was holed, you'd expect it to drip out of the foot sell vents rather than pooling on the shelf. I suspect one of the hose-clamps is simply loose, if it's dripping when left in the garage it is probably visible when the engine is running.

 

PS. Do not use Radweld, ever except in a car you're about to scrap!

If you're planning on taking the engine out anyway then by all means replace the clutch while you're at it, but if it is displaying all the symptoms you described, I'm certain it will make no difference. If the fluid were leaking past the seal in the slave cylinder it would be leaking out of the cylinder, I recommend replacing the master cylinder and piston and then seeing if you still have a problem before bothering with anything else. I'll bet you £5 to NTL that fixes your problem...