Dom Williams

Good afternoon all, I experienced some unusual engine cut-outs whilst enjoying some (very light) road driving a short time ago. Cut-out was intermittent, often occurring at the most helpful of times (most notably when giving it a tickle entering a roundabout to slot into a gap in traffic 😑). Power does return (without needing to turn the engine over again), it is usually absent for a couple of seconds and in the meantime blipping the throttle had no effect. The engine is a 1600K running MEMS 1.9. I imagine it will either be fuel-related or electrical, however I would expect the ECU to take more than the couple of seconds for it to reboot and start firing etc. after having lost power. Power to fuel pump? I believe it unlikely (but not impossible) that there is an issue with engine-bay wiring. The loom was opened up, cleaned and resleeved before putting back in a refreshed engine from DVA. The car then completed a drive to and back from Curborough for the introduction to sprinting day (plus the event) without any problems. The car is currently on axle stands doing a load of other small jobs so cannot go and do any “testing” for a while, but can have stuff off/apart for an inspection. If you have any theories, please let me know! Yours, Dom

Good afternoon all, does anyone happen to have a race master cylinder (AP Racing, 13/16" piston) they no longer need? Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom

Now "SOLD"

@Richard Price thank you for the feedback - I had not considered the legality side of fitting the single-circuit MC. I will look into creating a dual-MC setup - I would be interested to know which what sized bore on the MC and which pads you went for. I imagine I will see you next year, assuming you will still be competing(?) @JP thank you for the PN, I will see whether I can find one at a sensible price or whether I have to bite the bullet... @PaulCo thanks for your kind offer; I think I would prefer to take this "opportunity" to either join you on the twin MC or an uprated MC.

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/nose-cones/6845-nose-cone-black-s3-420-race-with-large-oil-cooler.html Nosecone has covered circa 500 miles since purchase, all of which it was covered with a wrap (since been removed). The nosecone has a couple of slight marks in the paint (pictured) however I do believe these will polish out with an orbital polisher - I ran some Autoglym Paint Renovator over it which brought it up a treat. In full working order, selling simply because I have no need for it. The components are located in Chipping Norton, happy to arrange postage and/or collection. Caterham Parts prices for the component is £381.24

Hi all, thanks for your feedback. Just to respond to some of the questions: @7 wonders of the world, yes rear callipers came off and got a tap with a mallet before bleeding and during, also tried actuating the handbrake to clear them completely. Currently on a standard MC, in theory new in 2020 from CC @Beagler, thanks for the recommendation - I use a Gunson Eezibleed attached to a tyre at circa 20psi to keep the system pressurised. I also had my father on nipple-opening duty and fluid collection whilst I (gently) pumped the brake pedal to push more fluid through in the vain hope it was air in the system. @SamC, thank you for your suggestion. I will try that when I get home. I like your answer as it is the suggestion I have heard that explains both Curborough and bleeding woes. Re: an upgraded/race master cylinder...it seems that CC no longer sell them (currently out of stock) and AP no longer make them. They are also advertised at £417.77 + shipping, which is stupid. One of these is still a 13/16 bore (same as race MC), is still made by AP, is bulkhead mounted, and is less than £200: https://apracing.com/race-car/master-cylinders/flange-mounted-types/vertical-flange-types/cp2623-type It looks like the attachment of the reservoir and copper tube(s) would need to change with respect to standard but doesn't look impossible unless I am missing something. Has anyone tried something similar? Thanks in advance

Good afternoon all, I am trying to diagnose a soft brake pedal... For context, I was at Curborough a few months ago and whilst not enamoured with the braking capabilities, the car did stop. Until it didn't. The pedal went to the floor in the afternoon - the MC reservoir had pissed a load of brake fluid over the bulkhead (argh!)...I suspect it was overfilled. Assuming it was a poor seal between MC and cap, I bought the reservoir cap without float switch (but with "sealing" bellows) to and for good measure did a complete flush of the system. The pedal feels pretty good at first pump, quite hard, however starts to get softer as I keep pumping - to the point that after 10 pumps the pedal is very long and can just about reach the end of its travel (with a big leg drive from me). I would expect it to be like standing on a brick wall whenever I touch the pedal. So, likely culprits are: 1. Master Cylinder - this was in theory changed by the previous owner a couple of years ago (for a brand new standard MC from Caterham) - I don't know if it was ever fitted (I have the invoice) but it does look like it is fairly new, so I suspect it was. I have read lots of posts suggesting that the more recent MCs are hit and miss and that the seals might have gone. 2. Air in the System - have worked my way through a LOT of RBF660 flushing the system (1.5L now), and done all sorts of things (had the rear callipers off and turned upside down, taps with a mallet, handbrake trick etc etc)... there are definitely no air pockets. 3. Brake Pads - the previous owner put brand new pads on all around, however they are standard ones from Caterham and I have read that the rears can give the pedal a spongey feel. 4. Rear Callipers - I read that if these are binding and not actioning correctly this may cause a soft pedal. They look to be working correctly. 5. Leak in the System - Car is currently on axle stands - I have been all over and cannot find any leak. 6. Such a strong leg that I am elastically deforming the pedal - unlikely, I haven't been to the gym in a while and steel is usually deforms a little more plastically than what I am seeing What do people think the likely culprit might be? Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom

Price lowered, bump. Anyone fancy making me a sensible offer (or if I am highballing massively then anyone got any idea what they think it's worth)?

Good afternoon all, I am selling some of the extras that came with my ’96 Seven when I bought it last year. All components are in full working order, I am selling them simply because I have no need for them. The components are located in Chipping Norton, happy to arrange postage and/or collection. Please do PM me if anything captures your interest; prices are negotiable. Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom https://caterhamparts.co.uk/switches/4410-inertia-switch-ford-sigma-duratec-engines.html Link above points to a Sigma/Duratec component, however this one is from a K-Series. Comparing the two images, they look very similar if not identical and I imagine work in an identical fashion…2 wires with a broken/un-broken circuit… Removed due to desire to remove any “excess” weight from the car and clean up the engine bay (I didn’t want to have to make any unnecessary holes in my new bulkhead). Price from the Caterham Parts site is £43.58

Good afternoon all, I am selling some of the extras that came with my ’96 Seven when I bought it last year. All components are in full working order, I am selling them simply because I have no need for them. The components are located in Chipping Norton, happy to arrange postage and/or collection. Please do PM me if anything captures your interest; prices are negotiable. Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom https://caterhamparts.co.uk/switches/6567-steering-column-lock-all-cars.html Removed due to desire to remove any “excess” weight from the car - in this case the car will only be used on track and as such is not needed. The necking bolts have never been torqued to the point at which they begin to stretch (as pictured). Price from the Caterham Parts site is £120.76

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For Sale: Good afternoon all, I am selling some of the extras that came with my ’96 Seven when I bought it last year. All components are in full working order, I am selling them simply because I have no need for them. The components are located in Chipping Norton, happy to arrange postage and/or collection. Please do PM me if anything captures your interest; prices are negotiable. Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom https://caterhamparts.co.uk/indicators/1862-indicator-lens-amber.html Code as above, these were not on the car when purchased as the previous owner had changed the headlights to the LEDs with integrated indicators, therefore unsure of component mileage. As stated, these are free to a good home. However, I would ask that you pay for postage. Price per lens from the Caterham Parts site is £5.36

Good afternoon all, I am selling some of the extras that came with my ’96 Seven when I bought it last year. All components are in full working order, I am selling them simply because I have no need for them. The components are located in Chipping Norton, happy to arrange postage and/or collection. Please do PM me if anything captures your interest; prices are negotiable. Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom Higher quality images can be found here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApJ3UNdoA4Zhhb0YV5f-gg7d6N4E-A?e=c8hs9Z https://caterhamparts.co.uk/nose-cones/6845-nose-cone-black-s3-420-race-with-large-oil-cooler.html https://caterhamparts.co.uk/nose-cones/5341-nosecone-badge-black-silver-self-adhesive.html Nosecone has covered circa 500 miles since purchase, all of which it was covered with a wrap (since been removed). The nosecone has a couple of slight marks in the paint (pictured) however I do believe these will polish out with an orbital polisher - I ran some Autoglym Paint Renovator over it which brought it up a treat. Happy to sell the components separately if only 1 of the 2 is of interest. Grille/mesh not included. Caterham Parts prices for the two separate components listed above as follows £370.14, £40.46…total = £410.60

I expected you to know the answer Revilla, thank you very much for the clarification!

Good morning all, I have recently had my engine loom out for a clean-up whilst the engine is out of the car. After getting through the 26 year old sticky mess that used to be electrician's tape, I arrived at the wiring underneath. I came across the copper sheathing that I imagine shields the lambda and crank position wires from the power lines - at the top of the loom near the ECU this sheathing extends out the PVC sleeving and is then crimped into the earth wire running down the loom; picture found here: https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApJ3UNdoA4Zhhf0eNhB4KvPClNhAhA?e=6dgAr9 What is the reason for doing this? Is it a "just in case" there happens to be current in the sheathing it goes it ground? Is it necessary or can I trim back the sheathing to the end of the sleeving and then redo the crimp connector for something much thinner/less encumbursome in the loom? Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom

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Hi all, I have an interested buyer for these who is willing to wait until I am back from the holidays to come and see/collect. If they decide to back out then I will make it known

SOLD

SOLD

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/switches/4410-inertia-switch-ford-sigma-duratec-engines.html Link above points to a Sigma/Duratec component, however this one is from a K-Series. Comparing the two images, they look very similar if not identical and I imagine work in an identical fashion…2 wires with a broken/un-broken circuit… Removed due to desire to remove any “excess” weight from the car and clean up the engine bay (I didn’t want to have to make any unnecessary holes in my new bulkhead). Price from the Caterham Parts site is £43.58 Good afternoon all, I am selling some of the extras that came with my ’96 Seven when I bought it last year. All components are in full working order, I am selling them simply because I have no need for them. The components are located in Chipping Norton, happy to arrange postage and/or collection. Please do PM me if anything captures your interest; prices are negotiable. Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom High quality images can be found here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApJ3UNdoA4Zhhb0YV5f-gg7d6N4E-A?e=c8hs9Z