Dom Williams

Hi Thomas, I spoke to Luke themselves to get hold of these. They were very kind and went digging to find old stock and send me a pair. But they did say that I was very lucky and that I had the last one! They are officially out of stock. Prior to speaking to them, I had heated the sticker up, peeled it off the QR (very carefully), scanned it into the computer and was going to get a batch of new stickers made up…but then they sent me some stickers and I saved myself the aggro. Dom

(I have a column switch for sale if that is useful)

Hello both, yes I am interested! thank you very much

BUMP Price drop to £40

BUMP Price drop to £10

SOLD

SOLD

Hi, yeah they are currently £435 + VAT - 10% from BG…circa £470 Currently circa £440 from Caterham. I was hoping to spend rather less than that and get one second hand! If anyone has one…please let me know! Thanks, Dom

BUMP

Good afternoon all, thanks for your further feedback! @7 wonders of the world added to the to-do list @Mick Day thanks for the tip - I have a pretty decent history for the car and cannot see any fuel pump-related purchases (at least since 2003) @revilla thank you for the suggestions - I will check the spacing; it may be rev-dependent, but I don't have enough data to go on; that's very interesting to know about the ECU-reboot time...I remember the issue occurring at low revs (it also cut out a few times whilst trundling up the hill to my house and when approaching junctions slowing down to a stop/setting off again) @Toby S the barrel ignition switch was removed last year and replaced with an aircraft-style toggle switch on the dash - however next time I am out I will try the indicators and see if there is some sort of correlation 😉 @john milner thanks for the comment; unfortunately it won't be that in my case as I removed the FIA isolator switch last year (my car is now very stealable!)

BUMP, price dropped Please someone take it off my hands so I can put an end to the nagging at home for taking up too much storage space 🥲

SOLD

Good morning all, https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/1497-cooling-submarine-1-outlet-for-rover-dry-sump.html Submarine removed from cooling system and replaced with new as part of a recent engine rebuild. Due to tight timescales I was not able to have the original powdercoated (as this was the preferred route). In full working order (although would indeed benefit from a powdercoat), selling simply because I have no need for it. Price from the Caterham Parts site is £45.48 Components located in Chipping Norton, happy to arrange postage and/or collection. Please do PM me if anything captures your interest; prices are negotiable. Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom

Good morning all, https://caterhamparts.co.uk/brackets/1112-cycle-wingstay-lh-13-14-wheel-road-use.html https://caterhamparts.co.uk/cycle-wings/7873-cycle-wing-black-grp-standard.html These came off my car after having covered circa 500 miles; I have given them a quick polish and they came up quite wonderfully (as you can see in the photos). The only reason for removing them is because I changed to body-coloured wings on some slightly-lower race stays. Caterham Parts price for the wing stays is £92.09 per stay Caterham Parts price for cycle wings (unpainted) is £91.66 per wing Total price from the Caterham Parts site is (92.09 + 91.66) x2 = £367.50 Components located in Chipping Norton, happy to arrange postage and/or collection. Please do PM me if anything captures your interest; prices are negotiable. Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom

Good morning all, https://caterhamparts.co.uk/nose-cones/6845-nose-cone-black-s3-420-race-with-large-oil-cooler.html Nosecone has covered circa 500 miles since purchase, all of which it was covered with a wrap (since been removed). Fits any S3 chassis, not just the 420R. Price from the Caterham Parts site is £392.68 Components located in Chipping Norton, happy to arrange postage and/or collection. Please do PM me if anything captures your interest; prices are negotiable. Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom

Good morning all, https://caterhamparts.co.uk/switches/4410-inertia-switch-ford-sigma-duratec-engines.html Link above points to a Sigma/Duratec component, however this one is from a K-Series. Comparing the two images, they look very similar if not identical and I imagine work in an identical fashion…2 wires with a broken/un-broken circuit… Removed due to desire to remove any “excess” weight from the car and clean up the engine bay (I didn’t want to have to make any unnecessary holes in my new bulkhead). Price from the Caterham Parts site is £46.24 Components located in Chipping Norton, happy to arrange postage and/or collection. Please do PM me if anything captures your interest; prices are negotiable. Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom

Good morning all, https://caterhamparts.co.uk/switches/6567-steering-column-lock-all-cars.html Removed due to desire to remove any “excess” weight from the car - in this case the car will only be used on track and as such is not needed. The necking bolts have never been torqued to the point at which they begin to stretch (as pictured). Price from the Caterham Parts site is £128.11 Components located in Chipping Norton, happy to arrange postage and/or collection. Please do PM me if anything captures your interest; prices are negotiable. Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom

Good morning all, thank you very much for your feedback. @TomB I will check the TPS - however I would have thought that this would result in the engine stalling as I engage the clutch without revs - I wouldn't expect it to "regain power" a few seconds later(?) It's an easy check though...so I will definitely have a look. @Skipper555 I will have a look but I doubt the problem is earths/power supply as I went over the entire electrical system last year and cleaned it all up. @Mick Day that's very interesting - I know the fuel pump is on the list of "consumables" for this car. I don't fancy this job, but think I might have to check this. @Shaun_E Hi Shaun, it is the one bolted to the block - I can't go wasted spark with the MEMS (unless @revilla knows differently) - when the engine came out last year to go to Dave everything obviously came off and had a damn good clean - it didn't look "old"/"worn" but who knows what it looks like inside. I can recheck the connections just in case. As per my comment to Mick Day, I will check the fuel pump and see what that looks like. @Englishmaninwales Hi Malcom, when I re-did the engine loom before Curbs last year I redid that line completely - new spade connectors on both sides that slot together with a nice amount of friction and the whole thing was then heatshrinked so it can't come undone - thanks for the tip though! @Jonathan Kay I have all the car/engine loom diagrams yes; no drowning (it lives in the garage and never sees the rain); I must admit I didn't check the dials to see what happened when I lost engine power (I was too busy trying to see what might drive into me); I didn't ever "restart it" - engine power would come back of its own accord a couple of seconds later. Re: your second message...thanks for the tips. I will re-check all connections just in case however everything is definitely clean (I did this job thoroughly last year and the car has done maybe 250 (sunny) miles since then); I will check battery voltage too, however I have a voltage reading on the dash and I don't remember seeing anything strange in normal driving (both on and off load); ECU fuses are the standard/originals, situated underneath the ECU - I gave this all a clean last year...but there could be something loose. I still can't imagine that if the ECU lost power due to a dodgy connection it would then come back to life and start firing cylinders after a couple of seconds? Spark plug wells are definitely dry; I can check for seating...but as you say, it is definitely not just 1 cylinder causing an issue! @Klunk The FIA switch and its many kgs of wiring all came off last year!

Good afternoon all, I experienced some unusual engine cut-outs whilst enjoying some (very light) road driving a short time ago. Cut-out was intermittent, often occurring at the most helpful of times (most notably when giving it a tickle entering a roundabout to slot into a gap in traffic 😑). Power does return (without needing to turn the engine over again), it is usually absent for a couple of seconds and in the meantime blipping the throttle had no effect. The engine is a 1600K running MEMS 1.9. I imagine it will either be fuel-related or electrical, however I would expect the ECU to take more than the couple of seconds for it to reboot and start firing etc. after having lost power. Power to fuel pump? I believe it unlikely (but not impossible) that there is an issue with engine-bay wiring. The loom was opened up, cleaned and resleeved before putting back in a refreshed engine from DVA. The car then completed a drive to and back from Curborough for the introduction to sprinting day (plus the event) without any problems. The car is currently on axle stands doing a load of other small jobs so cannot go and do any “testing” for a while, but can have stuff off/apart for an inspection. If you have any theories, please let me know! Yours, Dom

Good afternoon all, does anyone happen to have a race master cylinder (AP Racing, 13/16" piston) they no longer need? Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom

Now "SOLD"

@Richard Price thank you for the feedback - I had not considered the legality side of fitting the single-circuit MC. I will look into creating a dual-MC setup - I would be interested to know which what sized bore on the MC and which pads you went for. I imagine I will see you next year, assuming you will still be competing(?) @JP thank you for the PN, I will see whether I can find one at a sensible price or whether I have to bite the bullet... @PaulCo thanks for your kind offer; I think I would prefer to take this "opportunity" to either join you on the twin MC or an uprated MC.

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/nose-cones/6845-nose-cone-black-s3-420-race-with-large-oil-cooler.html Nosecone has covered circa 500 miles since purchase, all of which it was covered with a wrap (since been removed). The nosecone has a couple of slight marks in the paint (pictured) however I do believe these will polish out with an orbital polisher - I ran some Autoglym Paint Renovator over it which brought it up a treat. In full working order, selling simply because I have no need for it. The components are located in Chipping Norton, happy to arrange postage and/or collection. Caterham Parts prices for the component is £381.24

Hi all, thanks for your feedback. Just to respond to some of the questions: @7 wonders of the world, yes rear callipers came off and got a tap with a mallet before bleeding and during, also tried actuating the handbrake to clear them completely. Currently on a standard MC, in theory new in 2020 from CC @Beagler, thanks for the recommendation - I use a Gunson Eezibleed attached to a tyre at circa 20psi to keep the system pressurised. I also had my father on nipple-opening duty and fluid collection whilst I (gently) pumped the brake pedal to push more fluid through in the vain hope it was air in the system. @SamC, thank you for your suggestion. I will try that when I get home. I like your answer as it is the suggestion I have heard that explains both Curborough and bleeding woes. Re: an upgraded/race master cylinder...it seems that CC no longer sell them (currently out of stock) and AP no longer make them. They are also advertised at £417.77 + shipping, which is stupid. One of these is still a 13/16 bore (same as race MC), is still made by AP, is bulkhead mounted, and is less than £200: https://apracing.com/race-car/master-cylinders/flange-mounted-types/vertical-flange-types/cp2623-type It looks like the attachment of the reservoir and copper tube(s) would need to change with respect to standard but doesn't look impossible unless I am missing something. Has anyone tried something similar? Thanks in advance

Good afternoon all, I am trying to diagnose a soft brake pedal... For context, I was at Curborough a few months ago and whilst not enamoured with the braking capabilities, the car did stop. Until it didn't. The pedal went to the floor in the afternoon - the MC reservoir had pissed a load of brake fluid over the bulkhead (argh!)...I suspect it was overfilled. Assuming it was a poor seal between MC and cap, I bought the reservoir cap without float switch (but with "sealing" bellows) to and for good measure did a complete flush of the system. The pedal feels pretty good at first pump, quite hard, however starts to get softer as I keep pumping - to the point that after 10 pumps the pedal is very long and can just about reach the end of its travel (with a big leg drive from me). I would expect it to be like standing on a brick wall whenever I touch the pedal. So, likely culprits are: 1. Master Cylinder - this was in theory changed by the previous owner a couple of years ago (for a brand new standard MC from Caterham) - I don't know if it was ever fitted (I have the invoice) but it does look like it is fairly new, so I suspect it was. I have read lots of posts suggesting that the more recent MCs are hit and miss and that the seals might have gone. 2. Air in the System - have worked my way through a LOT of RBF660 flushing the system (1.5L now), and done all sorts of things (had the rear callipers off and turned upside down, taps with a mallet, handbrake trick etc etc)... there are definitely no air pockets. 3. Brake Pads - the previous owner put brand new pads on all around, however they are standard ones from Caterham and I have read that the rears can give the pedal a spongey feel. 4. Rear Callipers - I read that if these are binding and not actioning correctly this may cause a soft pedal. They look to be working correctly. 5. Leak in the System - Car is currently on axle stands - I have been all over and cannot find any leak. 6. Such a strong leg that I am elastically deforming the pedal - unlikely, I haven't been to the gym in a while and steel is usually deforms a little more plastically than what I am seeing What do people think the likely culprit might be? Thanks in advance. Yours, Dom