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Posts posted by Beagler
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3 hours ago, Jonathan Kay said:
My emboldening.
I don't understand the effect that you are describing. More, please.
Thanks
Jonathan
Absorbs moisture from micro porous hoses or atmosphere.
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No, its doesn't get pressurised as its above the actual master cylinder. When a fluid is compressed it produces water so that moisture will be in the brake fluid beyond the piston and seals as its under pressure when the brake pedal is depressed. You would need to sample the fluid from the caliper bleed nipples in which case you might as well bleed the system.
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1 hour ago, Miker7 said:
I'd second the brake fluid tester. Got one from Aldi or Lidl for about £6. Tested my new to me Caterham and it was less than 1% moisture so good (hopefully) for at least a year or two & saved me a job ....... after i'd bought the replacement fluid
Where do take the test sample ?
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Average mileage for everyday car use is 12000 per year. Usually recommended brake fluid change is every 2 years. The brake fluid lack of darkening colour is irrelevant as brake fluid is hygroscopic so as more moisture is absorbed this can vaporise and form bubbles although the fluid in the reservoir may look ok. Change the fluid every 2 yrs for low mileage road use or earlier if heavy track use.
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Just got some flat roof rubber repair from B&Q but clean under the arches thoroughly and degrease with white spirit before painting it on.
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Morgans are the same as far as being unsuitable for all round year use. When I owned mine in the late 90’s they talked about soggy sill boards where the horse hair padding of the sills below the doors wood absorb water and rot the sill board and frame. An aftermarket company produced a fibreglass moulded replacement. Add to the fact the car leaked like a sieve and water splashed up through the floorboards and was not what you would wish for a price of £23k at the time.
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I can recommend the uprated Master Cyl and the use of the Sealy Bleeder Unit It means positive pressure as you close the bleed nipple and you can flush and use a good volume of brake fluid.
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6 hours ago, Jon635 said:
Thanks for all the suggestions / comments - particularly Rob (Bert320) who has provided me, on spec, an ECU for Williams to try.
My old ECU is definitely dead but there is no indication that there is a generic problem with the MBE ECU hardware from that era, which was a key part of me creating my original post. The problem is now with finding the right map for this 140bhp, Piper cam'd engine (not 150bhp as is referred to in some posts above).
The current situation is that we have 2 MBE ECUs which seem to be sound (Rob's and a used one provided by Caterham), but Caterham are apparently incapable of finding the right map to put on them. The one they can provide will not run my car at all and another map copied by Williams off a similar car will run mine - but badly. If they are providing the "right" map then maybe the car they sold me actually does not have the engine in it that they said they were selling me......!
The current plan seems to be for Lee from Caterham to visit Williams and "sort it out". My preference (and Williams') is to get Caterham to get my car running, but I appreciate that I may have to resort to getting a map specially made if this proves futile. But why I should have to pay to go down that route for a standard spec car bought direct from Caterham would be beyond me.
I have an ECU from my 1.6 sigma. Updated by Caterham from a 270 S to a 310S if it is of use. It was replaced by Northampton Motor Sport when I upgraded.
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On 01/11/2023 at 09:03, Stu Smith said:
To program the new fob you need the working fob that’s already paired up.
I do have one working fob, but it got me thinking what would happen if no working paired up fob was available?
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Thanks Andrew you are correct. 🙂👍
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Flywheels are there to smooth out the pulses of the individual firing of the cylinders. It stores rotational energy to allow a smooth idle. Lightening the flywheel too much can compromise this idle smoothness. Standard production engines tend to have heavier flywheels to give production engines this smoothness as they are are more concerned with driver experience than performance . Flywheels in our sevens can be lighter as we are more tolerant of higher idle rpm which sometimes is required to maintain a smooth idle. My recent lightened flywheel gives an idle speed of approx 1000 so as it moderately lightened does not appear too extreme.
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Just checked with Adrian Flux that the work carried out with Northampton Motor Sport didn't affect my insurance premium. They said it was ok and no increase. What a nice company. 👍
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No more Chitty Chitty Bang Bang for me 🤣
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I must confess I am amazed at Northampton determination to resolve the problem with my non functioning immobiliser but this is to their credit. I am not electronically proficient to know whether it is a faulty immobiliser unit coincidental to the taking of the power supply from it to power the new ECU or a faulty immobiliser unit. Doubtless all will be revealed in the fulness of time. I get the impression NHMS are determined to resolve it because of future customers with the same immobiliser and every credit to them.
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Ainsley,
I will meet Troy from Northampton Motor Sport next Saturday as he is picking my car up to take back and resolve the Immobiliser issue. If you have any queries I would be happy to put them to him.
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Some are more pitied than scorned………. 😉
Absolutely 😥
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Yes they do. I believe their RR is one of the best.
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Agreed.
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12 minutes ago, Shortshift said:
"Now Now. What did SL R No. 77 say"
Is that a question?
Whatever Stuart wrote, I think it's clear to everyone who has read or posted in this thread (well, possibly everybody - but with one exception?) who he was directing his comments to.
BlatChat is mostly such a nice, friendly, non-confrontational place these days. Long may it remain so.
James
Here Here.
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Now Now. What did SL R No. 77 say
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Ainsley, having just had mine tuned by Northampton motor sport, I can highly recommend their work and expertise. It wasnt cheap but I believe you get what you pay for and piece of mind knowing it will be right. PM me if you need any more info.
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Please be assured I will always reply civilly to civil responses.
Is it normal for a new engine to stall when it is first started?
in TechTalk
Posted
Mine used to stall and sometimes took a few goes to get started and idled about 13-1400 rpm. Since having throttle bodies, lightened flywheel fitted and rolling road it now starts first press and idles straight away at 1000rpm. A little expensive but engine is transformed and goes like stink.