Bob L

These are a straight swap but as stated, you may wish to enhance the reflector:

 

380LED60SBR-2 380 Super Bright 60 LED Brake and Tail Bulb

Options:

Pack Size: Pair

Colour: Red

 

Approx £22

 

Autobulbsdirect.co.uk

 

I think you'll find them better but nothing seems as good a plain filament bulb within the std CC coloured lens. So not the best upgrade I’ve done.

 

Are these chromed stop tail lights? I use LED's. Lots of threads on this. Still not the brightest though and need work on the reflectors.

The FSD of my mechanical would be too much for the std electrical gauge which has a lesser sweep. A pro may be able to do such a conversion for a price but not sure you would get an accurate DIY job.

One pair please. BM to follow.

 

Thanks Bob

My wife and I are on a cruise in September to the Grand Canaries. I believe we stop for one day in your province. If there is anything you require (as long as its not too bulky) from Caterham Cars of other sources we may be able to help? Not sure if this fits in with your time scales but happy to assist if we can.

Does sound like an air lock and you don't want these on a K series. I've done the mod on mine (as already recommended)but prior to that I found the bleed 'T' made the whole process much easier. If nothing else, fit one of these if you have not done so already. Then do the mod asap - you won't regret it

Yes please Steve, BM to follow.

YHM

On tires - I do like the Toyo 888's, will probably replace with the same again for my road use 7 but always interested in other peoples views.

Quoting MereCat: 

 

Try Redline for the bearing and the sleeve- very helpful when I needed one

 

Edited by - Bob L on 15 Apr 2014 08:53:05

Mine is a kit built 1.8 K of 1999 vintage with Cat. Documentation does state visual inspection only required. I think I was one of the last few to get away with this. If I can find the doc concerned, I will forward it onto you.

May just be a bit of grit / sealant on the female thread. Screw in a piece of paper towel gently. This may remove it. If it feels like it snags, it could be the thread. Feel with the tip of your little finger but watch for cuts!

 

 

 

Edited by - Bob L on 3 Apr 2014 15:54:20

Ahh a rattle, this could be just about anything anywhere but check for the easy obvious bits first (I never do or learn from this experience!). My original rattle was a loose Lambda sensor. So simple to check – give it a wobble

I removed the clutch as it seemed sensible to replace while all was dismantled and was advised this is a pig of a job but maybe I was lucky. Did a search on this and ignored the ‘grease and mallet’ extraction method as it rarely seems to work, most end up with a face full of grease! One fellow BC recommended using a Dremmel grinder on the inside edge of the bearing, just through to the sleeve. This allows for the insertion of a slim screwdriver, a quick twist and out it came. Completely free of drama. Replaced with new bearing and sleeve after gently chamfering the leading edge. Tapped home gently with block of wood and a hammer. The bearing and sleeve was cheap so I bought a spare of each in case I fowled up on reassembly. As I said, I may have just been lucky but I was surprised how easy this was compared with some of the woes I’d read about. Pick a warm day, take your time and enjoy

I had a similar problem. Convinced it was H/G failure as the leak seemed to front and rear of the block around the H/G area. Turned out to be the water rail (again) and the plenum gasket. Fixed in minutes, the diagnosis took considerably longer.

 

Found by stuffing plenty of kitchen towel around the block and monitoring regularly. The rough green paper hand towels show the source best if you have cheap skate facilities manager.

 

Good luck and can I take first dibs on the wife, mine wouldn't let me have a Superlight 😬

 

 

Edited by - Bob L on 5 Feb 2014 13:21:18

Depends on the hoist you are using. Make sure it can bypass the axle stands when the engine is manoeuvred into position.

 

My hoist has fairly wide legs and although I have wide track, I still prefer to place the front wheels on wooden blocks on the outside of the rubber to enable extra wiggle room if required.

 

Deptford market used to have a stall.

Sometimes the mail plug connections do not line up with the female dash mounted socket internal connections (there not all 360 degree contacts), try twisting it through 90 degrees and re-insert. It may be that simple.

Oh, go on then. 2 units as in one set please.

Is your antifreeze mixture up to scratch? You don’t want any frozen bits ☹️

Possible thermostat issue.

Air lock is the most common if recently bled.

 

This sounds like the spigot bearing but there will be better versed than me to advise shortly.

Oily, thanks for this. My heart sank when i read this but just measured and it is 5mm plus using a std tape measure

 

Many thanks for your comments.

 

Much appreciated.

I’m about to change the inlet manifold gasket on a 1.8 K series. I have the Viton uprated item. It looks straight forward but wondering just how many of the ancillaries I really need to disconnect to replace the leaky item. Is there enough movement in the flexi pipes etc just to unbolt and swap or am I being overly optimistic? I appreciate I have to drain down first.