David aka Blue7

Just to add more confusion to fuel issues:

Quote from FBHVC: "After an extensive consultation process, the Department for Transport has announced that they will legislate to introduce E10 petrol as the standard 95-octane petrol grade by 1 September 2021. They will also require the higher-octane 97+ ‘Super’ grades to remain E5 to provide protection for owners of older vehicles. This product will be designated as the ‘Protection’ grade".

More here, click on "Introduction to E10 petrol"

https://www.fbhvc.co.uk/fuels#E10

David

Here is Andy / adcatman solution posted on the old blatchat site so the link doesn't work

http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=147379&pn=1&ps=15&c=

Caterham Fuel Filler on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20184350@N05/sets/72157611953264019/

Two screws to remove the cover 

3 Jubilee clips holding the hoses 

6 screws holding the outer ring to the filler 

A little difficult removing the 3 hoses at the same time. Easier to push the main hose off the filler then work the other two off 

Bag over to prevent quick job becoming long job. 

3 spots of weld holding the flap in place. The trusty Dremel comes into its own again 

Took as much weld out as possible without coming onto the main pipe. 

Ah ha pesky little thing clear. Finally teased it out with a screwdriver to break the welds 

Now I can fill up directly from a pump (BE AWARE - Removing the SVA flap is all well and good and to me the Pro's outweigh the cons but just to make anyone aware, when I drive with a brimful tank I get a small trace of fuel down the back panel. The flap obviously does some good in deflecting fuel under acceleration.

Additional Notes

In my case (2008), Caterham fitted a modified filler neck and cap, the stock codes for the revised parts fitted to my car were:

30T033A Fuel filler neck aero cap only modified £40.00 + VAT
30T032A Aero filler cap black finish 2008, £72.00 + VAT

From what I recall, two upgrades were being carried out to fuel pump nozzles, one was to make petrol and diesel nozzles different so that drivers would not mistakenly fill up with the wrong fuel and the other mod was that the new nozzles allowed less fuel vapour to escape which some accountant had calculated to be losing millions of pounds in fuel costs.

I took delivery of a new CSR in 2008 and couldn't understand why I couldn't get fuel in at "some" petrol stations.  When I phoned Caterham to explain the problem Nick Potter suggested I just stick a screwdriver down the filler pipe and prise out the offending flap!  I was incensed and eventually CC collected my car and installed the modified filler pipe ... that was a 1200 mile round journey to Aberdeen.  Meantime I had to carry a funnel and tube just in case I tried to fill up at a pump with the modified nozzles.

It is annoying that I can't upload a pdf  file that contains Andy's solution

David

It  is a known issue, there was a solution posted by Andy Adcatman but it was on the old Blatchat site so my link to it no longer works.  He also had details on Flickr  but I can't check it out because I am not a member.  I did save his details to a pdf file, I will try to attach it to this message but if it doesn't work PM me with your email address and I will send it to you

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20184350@N05/sets/72157611953264019/

In my case Caterham fitted a modified filler neck and cap, the stock codes for the revised parts fitted to my car were:

30T033A Fuel filler neck aero cap only modified here:

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=30T033A&submit_search=

30T032A Aero filler cap black finish 2008

David

Hopefully the pdf is here:

Caterham Fuel Filler.pdf

My CSR detests anything other than high octane such as V Power

Remarkable that it should cause such an unusual noise but I don't understand why CC didn't discover play in the wheel bearing at the outset.  Nevertheless, it's good to know that the probllem has beem resolved.

David

Well that seems to be in line with all the negative reviews on Amazon.  I must admit  that having read various articles in Which? magazine about Amazon fake reviews, I did wonder if some Shenzen syndicate had been paid to write multiple bad reviews in order to kill off Dremel sales and boost the sales of other similar competitor products like Taklife.  These tools still seem to be described as Dremels rather than multi-tools, which are bigger and more robust.   

It is a bit like "Biro" pens which were ball point pens that replaced ink nib pens and although many varieties of ball points were eventually produced, they were always referred to as biros.  Maybe there is a Shenzen conspiracy to drive down sales of Dremel in order to purchase the company and the rights to use the brand name Dremel but the sting in the tail would be market loss of confidence in that particular brand name but maybe Taklife Dremel would work.  The way things are going Caterham Cars may end up being made in Shenzen ... so beware negative Caterham views  

I thought it worth resurrecting this thread to report that the cordless Sabrecut that I eventually purchased proved to be ok if the cutting was of a low torque variety but even cutting the plastic rear light lenses proved to be problematical, the circular  cutting blades soon stuck if I applied even a modicum of pressure.

I have since invested in a corded mains operated version made by Tacklife, which is much better with loads of power.  I needed to cut out a rectangular hole in a tile in the bathroom and the masonry discs (bought separately) cut through the tile like a knife through butter.  Interestingly, Dremel are still receiving terrible reviews so I steered clear of Dremel.  If I have one criticism it is that it is operated by a rocker type on off switch and I feel that a trigger switch would be safer and more convenient.  This is the one I bought

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07QN3344C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On another matter, the search facility on L7C site is pretty much hopeless IMO.  When trying to locate this thread using the key word "dremel" it produces lots of results that just aren't at all appropriate and then asks "do you mean dreaded"?

David

ECR makes a valid point and the video below is for the "big" Lotus Exige

Ed

I recently had a sneak preview and they look like a 1st class piece of kit but I will leave it to Doug to respond with more detail

David

The noise seems to be too deep and metallic for it to be a cycle wing rubbing, my first suspicion would be the bonnet so I would take it for a run with bonnet removed to see if the noise is still there.  If the noise disappears it won't explain the cause but would disclose where the noise is coming from.  Something is vibrating against either bodywork or chassis somewhere so there should be evidence of chaffing.  I would also try braking with the handbrake and if the sound is still evident you can at least rule out the front brake caliper / disc.

It is a short video but the noise reaches two crescendos and does give the impression of something rotating that is causing the noise.  If the crescendos slowed with the car it does suggest a problem with the brakes / wheel.

I have it on good authority from Manstein, who owns a fleet of Caterhams that the place to go is HWR Motorsport, East Farm, Berwick Hill, Newcastle Upon Tyne, Tyne and Wear, NE20 0JZ, T. +44 (0)1661 821879 M. +44 (0)7725 942751

http://www.hwrmotorsport.co.uk/home/

I think he gets bulk discount

You may get more interest if you list this on the correct page "Marketplace", which is in the dropdown menu under "Blatchat"

From what David Brown reported, during his ongoing efforts to replace his CSR propshaft, the rear section of a CSR transmission is sealed with a cover plate and 32 rivets . 

https://www.lotus7.club/forum/chitchat/csr-engine-problem-update

Described originally by EVO as winglets, they first appeared on the CSR in 2005 along with re-profiled cycle wings, mounted  closer to the tyre to cut drag, and a new larger nose cone complete with a floor mounted chin, all combined to reduce the front end lift by 50 percent. The net effect for the driver, according to EVO was a major decrease in high-speed understeer.  They have since reappeared on the 620 range.  What they achieve on their own is anybodies' guess other than an endeavor to emulate the handsome looks of a CSR ... I would ban sales to all smooth chins that can't prove that the own a CSR

I think it was that O ring seal that was faulty on my first CSR and it had to go back to Cosworth via Caterham for replacement.  So I assume Cosworth may carry a stock of the O rings but if it is any help, James Gibson of Caterham, referred to them as "Titan parts"

You're most welcome, good luck.

David

I bought mine from Classic Carbon last year but haven't got around to fitting them because of the hassle of all the rivet removal and probably a bit of "carbon fatigue" after fitting all the available carbon light fittings.

Hi Grant

Fog & Reverse

1. Rubber grommets 2 no. 20mm dia.

2. The new c/f units are supplied with 3 mm. stand off posts to replace the self tapper lens securing screws.  No securing screws were supplied for the stand off posts so I had to buy 4 no. stainless steel bolts M3 3mm x 25mm to replace self-tappers.

3. I had to drill slightly larger mounting holes in JAL led assemblies and to locate them in the correct position I had to cut two short lengths of rubber tubing and slide them over the stand off posts on each side behind the led so the led butted up against them when refitting the lens. 

4. The rubber surround trim supplied was too thin so I bought some thicker small black rubber U channel edging edge protection trim seal flexible 6.5 x 4.5 mm.  A further option is to also use some GRANVILLE GV0374 Clear Silicone Sealant to affix the seal and also seal any gaps.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0735GLFPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is a photo, hope it helps.  BTW ... fitting fog / reverse is easy peasy compared to the rear light clusters ... and don't mention the headlights

I should add that JAL leds would fit straight into the standard fog / reverse CC units ... it is the carbon units that present a challenge   But endeavour to persevere, once fitted they reduce 0-60 by 0.75 secs.

Amended to say that I think I just fitted the rubber tubing location buffers behind the leds, I think the other two in the photo were for the other light.

David

Nigel, you recently replaced bushes on your rear roll bar and made some alterations to the diff casing to prevent the roll bar from touching it.  I would look there first to see if the bushes are still ok and the roll bar isn't touching the diff. casing.  I don't think you removed the propshaft from the diff did you?

Blue

Were there two splits Nigel ... or was that just an echo? 

Given your above comment and looking back at your original post which indicates that you drive without sidescreens, I can't help wondering if the answer to your problem is better wind deflectors rather than a draught excluder?  There was a good post by Nick Woods circa November 2008, in which he explained the inadequacies of the CC wind deflectors and he supplied details of how to make more effective version,  I can't find his original post but I did save some details including the construction method here.

Fair comment so to explain my reason for making a DE, it was to reduce the amount of fine spray that enters from the rear when driving in wet conditions with half hood erected.  When this topic first emerged under another thread there was a very amusing and valid comment along the lines of  "why would you buy a Caterham if you have an issue with draughts" 

On Aston Roadsters, you can buy a DE which is removable and there is a specific place in the boot to store it.  I have seen them on Porsches, Morgans (sorry Derek), and other soft tops and they are all removable or deployable at the press of a button.

I suppose that if you want a DE in place permanently then a fixed frame is appropriate but I wouldn't want such a device attached to my car permanently for aesthetic reasons and also I don't mind a cooling draught on a hot summer day ... not to mention all the stick I would get from fellow seveners    

So fair enough, if you want it in place permanently, by all means use a frame ... but bear in mind one important disadvantage ... it will increase weight 

I should have perhaps updated the instructions to say that I eventually trimmed off the excess that overlaps the boot cover so that it now just touches the boot cover.  The problem with using perspex is that would be difficult to store in the car whereas the pvc version just rolls up inside the half hood.  Similarly the above suggestions of using a "frame" is also probllematical when it comes to storing in the car. 

I still have some fly screen mesh left over from the mk1 version (which was far too contrived ... but worked), so I will have to make the mk2 version using the mesh instead of pvc.  It will be a welcome change from cleaning out our coal shed and painting the interior white, just to store logs instead of coal!

When you had the lights on dipped beam, did you also have the ignition switched on?