cobaltcodd

When you said the engine runs to 6000rpm when stationary, is that a sustained 6000rpm, or just a throttle blip that shows 6000rpm for a fraction of a second?

Restriction in the exhaust (collapsed or shifted packing materials)?

Maybe a decent crossflow? Not under your remit of modern engine, but characterful and likely in your price bracket

Is it a new roll bar? If second hand it could have been in a shunt and is now slightly distorted / incorrectly straightened. Likewise, has your car ever had a rear shunt and been repaired?

I can't tell you how much I want that - but all my money and garage space tied up with a crossflow

That link doesn't work

Many thanks for the info on this - instead of taking it all apart I'll wait until I've had a nice drive so everything is hot - and then check. Shows the value of belonging to the L7C

After converting my crossflow to a pressurised cooling system I ran it up to temperature (when the cooling fan cut in) to check for any leaks etc. However while doing this I noticed that my oil cooler, that sits in front of the rad. remained absolutely stone cold. So before I try not to make a big mess on the garage floor taking it all out and seeing what's happening, anybody any thoughts or suggestions, or previous experience of this? many thanks

I couldn't see a place to fit the clio one as I have a heater so there isn't enough space between that and the bonnet. Without a heater it would be perfect. It could have fitted elsewhere around the engine bay (eg, above the steering rack area), but I thought it had to be higher than the engine?

Some photos as requested. You need a new thermostat housing and gasket - the type with a vertical take-off. The expansion tank is from a Rover 214 - very hard to buy new - After a month of looking I joined the Rover 214 Facebook group and asked - and some bloke had about 10 (he breaks and deals in 214 spares). It has a long front mounting bracket that has to be cut off. You need a length of 8mm hose to connect the outlet on the top of this to the outlet on the new thermostat housing. I had to extend the wires connecting the thermostat fan switch on the housing as on the old one it was on the side so they would reach, now its on top so they wouldn't. Also needed are a couple of L-brackets to mount the expansion tank onto the heater. I still have to connect the lower outlet on the new expansion tank to the system - either into the lower rad hose using a 36mm x 36mm x 15mm T-piece OR into the return of the heater hose using a 3 x 15mm T-piece. I have no heater control on mine and that simplifies things. With one you would have to go into the lower rad hose because if the heater control was closed then water would expand into the expansion tank, but the water pump couldn't empty it (I think)

That goes to the heater - so just go into that? It would be easier and neater and less hose run, but Caterham originally supplied a t-piece (a "submarine") for the lower rad hose and also one of the most knowledgeable xflow people ever also agrees with doing it that way. Are there pros and cons for both ways?

To save me taking it off and measuring it, does anyone know the ID of the lower radiator coolant hose for a crossflow? It's because I'm converting to a pressurised system and need to put a t-piece in there for a 5/8" take-off thanks

I'm away from home for a couple of weeks so can't check - but will update this thread when I know

Well I'm in a muddle then as I have an 88 crossflow, built in the following couple of years but not registered until 2015, but it carries an 88 E-plate.

That's a good point about investment - you could buy that, run it for 5 years and sell it for more as it moves into the "classic" group.

Very good value

88 xflow - type 151

Ah, so it may not be possible then, unless a similar hole was made on the other side - not sure I want to do that though

To answer some questions - yes there is a steering lock for an 88 car. Keyless sounds great, but I think it could be a lot of hassle to fit - I quite like the originality of my car as well (turning the steering lock issue excepted - as it could be put back simply if required). When I get home I think the best bet would be to remove it and see if there is a locating hole for a grub screw or similar. many thanks.

Being right handed, I really struggle to get the key into my ignition (88 xflow) barrel and turn it as it's a left handed operation. So the question is... can it be loosened and swung around so it's on the RHS of the column? I'm away from home for a bit so can't go and look.

At the start you say this "tiny bit of steam coming from somewhere in the radiator" - is that steam on the outside? Is there a pin-hole leak in your rad causing you to lose coolant - so the system eventually boils through lack of coolant? So changing the switches, caps, thermostat etc etc is not going to addres the root cause of the overheating

You probably need a "bolt" where the thread goes right up to the head, not with a gap like yours - so what's technically called a set-screw. That's probably why it would turn - there were no threads left to engage the thread in the radiator

A big YES PLEASE if still available - mine are so scabby! I'd need them posted - so can you send details by pm on how to do that? many thanks Roger

Also - I like the idea of a zip being sewn into the cover. I shall investigate that further, many thanks

The spare wheel is clamped to the car, and so traps the folded edge of the boot cover between it and the bodywork. I have prisoner alloys, so I have to undo the centre plate that hides the studs, slacken off the T piece so I can pull the tyre away a cm or two and then undo the cover. Then reverse the process. It was a lot easier just un-popping the front edge and dropping the shopping / clutter in. I've been looking for some original leather seats with headrests for quite some time now, but they just don't seem to come up.