David White

#7.
John, The ECU blog stuff was very interesting but challenging. The Lowflying article is indeed more accessible. Very well done!

David

Thanks John. Also enjoying your piece on opening up the ECU and getting the Caterham to talk to you - not that I understand much of the technical bits!

David

Great stuff and well done for finishing the video. Your blog was a great help in my own build.

All the best,

David

Hidden in the wiring above the steering column.

I used M5 bolts for the rear lights as I didn't like the way the self tappers damage the gel coat.

About 1pm, 2-up, half hood, bronze(?)

I was in the tintop behind as your were going past the petrol station.  Hope you managed to avoId the pot-holes!

Thanks John - I'll give it another look.

I couldn't work out how to refit the dust cover without risking damage to the LED?

Another thumbs up for the Dave Gemzoe bulbs; just fitted.

Before:

and after:

Obviously the "after" has no nose so the pattern is impacted slightly!

Interested.  PM sent

Blue spotted (and heard) on A22 at M25 J6 Monday morning at about 08:00.  Hope you were wrapped up warm!

Rotating the bottom of the link such that the top and bottom point in opposite directions seems to eliminate the need for the spacer.  Unfortunately iIdon't have a clear photo from my build.

Jonathan,

Page 115 of the current Assembly Guide Edition 1.2 refers.

Regards

Sorry - bit of brain fade- managed to post this on ChitChat as well.

Does anyone have any experience of these and/or are there other (cheaper!) options out there for a quick release mirror mount for running without doors?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Removable-Mirror-Link-pair-Caterham/dp/B01N58QUTY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3ABGUTIIYTDIX&keywords=caterham+7&qid=1573206094&sprefix=caterham%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-4

http://www.woog.it/automotive/categoria-prodotto/automotive/

If you slacken the adjuster right off, you should be able to pull the cable through far enough such that the inner cable (that loops through the clevis pulley) can be slipped into the bracket.

Regards

David

This is how mine is routed - the adjuster will pull into the bracket when tightened.  Obviously the screw driver gets replaced with the top diff bolt!

Also, if not already done so, taking the wooden part of the boot floor out really helps.

As StevehS3, the cable loops over the top of the shaft and comes out under the shaft. However, it should be  zip tied to the A-frame.  I initially had mine on the chassis and it was changed by CC during the PBC; there's a rubber sleeve on the cable around which the zip ties are fixed.  My problem was on the right hand side where I had the cable routing behind the braided brake line - it should be routed forward of the brake line and again zip tied to the A-frame. 

White with blue stripe and full roll cage on A2022 Croydon Lane, Sunday afternoon.  Full face helmet and a friendly wave!  

The handbook for my (new) 310S says 23psi all round for Avon ZZS 185's.  Interestingly it came back from the PBC/IVA at 32!

Just completed my build - 310S SV - and didn’t have to cut anything other than the rear wings in order to connect the radius arms; no dremel needed, just a hacksaw. No touch up paint provided with the kit.

As Tony’s note, wiring the deadlights is painful. If I were to do it again, I might consider cutting the wires and re-soldering after threading through the brackets as I had particular issues with damaging the pins.

Make sure you get a copy of the new Assembly Guide, version 1.2!

David

 IVA passed! Now the wait is on for DVLA to do their bit.  Hopefully on the road soon. 

Hopefully this is a bit clearer.  Yes, just the half-nut.

Hi Tony,

If you don't already have a copy, it would be worth requesting the PBC checklist from CC (Michaela provided me with a copy), which is the list the technician uses to go over the car, so you can carry out your own "dummy" PBC in advance.

Regards

David

Just heard back from CC and they've agreed with my assessment and will be carrying out the work to the T-piece and handbrake switch FOC!