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pete_h

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Posts posted by pete_h

  1. I am swapping out my scroth asm 4 points for a schroth 6 pointer. Should be simple I thought, but no. So in the previous install I had a bolt that had an unthreaded portion, and a 'bowl' washer. This pivots easily. The new harness uses a plain washer on top, then the bracket, a crinkle washer with the top hat underneath. The issue I have with this is that it doesn't pivot easily. On the lap belts I thought the adjusters were getting trapped, but on the sholder bolts it is the same. I that to be expected? Ta

  2. Whilst I know it is not mandatory, I would like the peace of mind of having one... My question is which? Does it need to be a certain size? The blue book doesn't seem to specify this, but does seem to recommend the electrical version over the mechanical (3.2.7 Method of Operation: The preferred method of operation is electrical which should have its own source of energy for triggering, ideally with provision for checking the integrity of the systems triggering circuit) .

    And then what are the pros and cons to mounting position - passenger footwell vs boot. I suspect that the electrical one would be easier to set up with the switch rather than the cable pull. as it needs to be next to the electrical cut off (although maybe that is simple if it is in the passenger footwell).

    3.2.2 The triggering point from the exterior must be positioned close to the Circuit Breaker (or combined with it) and must be marked by the letter “E’’ in red inside a white circle of at least 10cm diameter with a red edge.

    I thought I read that the systems should be mounted to prevent torpedoing - but can't see that in the blue pdf er book...

  3. Thanks for the info Aeroscreens. I shall print that off too *smile*

    I now have the rears out, so can send them off for service. However, I don't have a C spanner of the right size to take the springs off.

    I notice that the rears have poly bushes rather than the spherical bearings on the front. Any point in having them converted (if possible)?

    I have now spent more time in the garage working on the car than I did driving it last year - and I am enjoying it!

  4. Thanks all. I've taken the dampers off mine to send to Avo for a service. Still have to get the rears out...

    Is the initial setup in the guide 'close enough'? The springs will have to be removed for the rebuild. I've only had the freestyle on the car, and the old tyres were probably tired (ho ho) but I found that it understeered a lot when I did a driver training day at North Weald. At least it looks easy enough to adjust.

  5. Thanks both. I'll take a look at the fb page.

    Tony - is it possible to convert to the ultra wide? I know it would mean a CV rear end, but I'm working on that thanks to Covid snacking ;-) Would it be worth it?

  6. I'm lucky enough to have the freestyle suspension on my car - the wide version not the ultra wide. Does anyone have the install guide? Also - are the wishbones the same as standard? If not, I beleive they are made by Arch? Just thinking ahead... 

  7. I'm starting to gather bits for next year, and am thinking I will need a spare set of wheels to run ZZRs on for the events. Should I be looking for CXR 7" and 8" or would standard 6" and 8" do? If anyone has any spare sets for sale... just missed out on a set :-(

  8. Thanks Andy - Class 4 does sound like a good fit, and like you said I can avoid the expense of new harnesses and possibly seat without the need for a Hans device (although I think I have one somewhere....). Did you drive to the events? Or am I mad? Would have a 'support car' with me to carry tools etc (I hope...!)

  9. Hello,

      I'd like to do the sprints next year. Is there a novice co-ordinator? Could someone explain the difference between Class 4 and 5? I have a k series r400, which I would be planning to drive to the events. 

    Cheers,

    Pete

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