pete_h

Perfect - thanks Dave!

I'm trying to refit my engine, and can't for the life of me work out where the front brace should go. I'm thinking in the threaded hole between the rollers, rather than between the manifold like at the rear - i.e. further away from the engine, and (maybe) one of the scavenge pump bolts? Not been able to find a pic of the underside of the RBTBs....

Thanks!

Thanks all. I do have the dry sump which begs the question why I didn;t use it - the basic answer being that I was fettling in my shed so I could keep an eye on my dogs, whereas the engine is in my garage. I should be able to do that this week - which would be the sensible thing to do!

This....

Quite probably! :-) 

I am in the process of rebuilding my R400 and decided to use the stronger oil rail/ladder thingy. For this to fit with the dry sump (possibly others) it needs to be fettled for clearance. I used the wiper plate(?), old part and the actual dry sump pick up as a guide and have done this. Hand held Dremel and a complete lack of skill, but I think it should work. Any comments/suggestions appreciated!

Here's hoping the pics work!

Ta

Yes please!

Thanks - that's great. Will knock up a plate tomorrow.

I've had to drop out of the Brands GP day as my engine is dead. If you fancy it, please contact the admin office. To say that I am gutted is an understatement!

Perhaps I should have started with the question... What is the proper way to measure liner heights? Currently I am using an engineers set square across the liner, and using a feeler gauge. Is there a better way using a DTI or is that accurate enough? Should the liners be clamped down when measuring?

Good point! Rover

As per the subject. Looking to repair or replace mine, but would like to enjoy some summer weather.

Since my car has died (again), I'm considering canceling my place. I could go in my other car (golf), but if someone here wants it, drop me a line.

I had seen those and it set me wondering. Not sure whether I would need a new crank though, and I were going to replace it, then maybe a steel one is the way to go.

Thanks for all the info folks. I might buy a second hand engine to have a play with.

Thanks. Two of the liners were 'ok', but the worst one was almost flush, and 2 thou at its highest point. I have been struggling with overheating pretty much since I got it. I am thinking that perhaps I should go with a new block and the westwood liners, so at least I know I am starting from a good place. The head is also a bit soft (tested by DVA) and will need replacing. Unfortunately it is a VHPD one, so a new head will need some work to flow as much as the current one - or do a VVC conversion, but that won't look 'original' - though not sure how much that matters. The current head has been peened, skimmed and shimmed, and a non MLS head gasket used, to try and get to the end of the year - just trying to plan what to do next.

If I have low liner heights, is that an issue with the block? Or would new liners rectify it? How hard is it to set the liner heights if I were to rebuild?

Need to check my gaps, but have a kinda related question. Is it possible to clean flouled plugs? I have tried carb cleaner and a brass brush but still have a miss fire at tick over (k series R400 - ngk BCPR7EiX plugs from redline so should be genuine)

Interested - will send you a PM

I had a lot of fun, despite my coolant issues. Made it home without too much bother. Thanks to everyone that helped. Test kit ordered, and will order up a new head gasket 'just in case'.

I've started putting one together, as I don't want to arrive having missed something like my helmet!

Thanks!

On the page that the link sends you to, there is a link to competitor sign on on the right. The number to sign in with is your entry number rather than your car number I think

Final instruction now received 

Just had an email back from Pete at Hethel and he is working on the final instructions, and we will get a link to the online noticeboard. We should be able to use our L7C numbers, which is great!

This is from the email:

PLEASE NOTE: up to this point our automated admin system has allocated you an entry number on a “first come” basis temporarily. This is NOT your competition number. Upon our closing date, we will sort everybody into an Entry List by class with competition numbers allocated according to the starting order. We will send you the sorted Entry List with your Final Instructions, so you know the correct numbers to stick on your car.

I've asked them about this