ben7

And thanks!

Yep, I'd figured your first line out at least! Doh, yes of course that makes complete sense. My logic hadn't reached that far! Hypothetical question. If I loaded up the previous map (that worked before I buggered it up), does that also reset the TPS in the ECU? I know practically that's no good as I'd be idling at 3000rpm or whatever, or does the emerald 'remember' the new TPS position regardless of whatever map you load up? So the number one rule would appear to be don't touch the TPS. I do know the previous 0% figure, as the idle control was set to it. My simple brain suggests that the original 100% position will be the new 100% position minus the difference between the new 0% position and the original 0% position won't it? If I am 'just out' with the 100% figure (say within 1% of the original TPS number), then map will stretch/compress accordingly? Throttle cable. Why did I not think of adjusting the throttle cable!!!

Ok, back again. This is a different problem but involves the bits in the title so thought I'd re use it. Was blatting last week. Managed to disconnect the threaded rod that connects to the throttle cable to the dthtb's (it wasn't screwed in enough to one of the ball joints) when I was embarking on an enthusiastic overtaking manoeuvre. Anyhow, I have now managed to reattach it, but have obviously screwed it in more, therefore shortening the overall length which is in turn leaving the tb's more open than previously on idle i.e they don't shut properly. I started car and obviously revs race away before quickly turning it off. Adjust the TPS in map along with idle control to reflect new TPS lowest number. Now I try to start engine and it just catches, coughs, bangs and dies. Sounds dreadful. Applying throttle doesn't help, it just dies again. I stopped trying once black smoke appeared from the tb's(!), and the butterflies are now carbonised. The car was working perfectly on the blat before linkage came loose (and it rev'd freely on first start up before I adjusted the tps albeit up to 3.5k rpm before I turned it off). And my simple brain is telling me that the only thing that should be different is that the idle should be running a lot higher than it was (as the tb's are more open). Any ideas what on earth is going on?

Great news that you got it sorted. I know from my recent dealings with Emerald that they really are a first class company and always go above and beyond

Is it more wet splutter than dry cough? So are you steady in say, 4th gear, freewheel downshift to 3rd and blip throttle with the clutch in to match revs? If so, when you blip the throttle do the revs not rise much and it splutters? Or when you're heal and toeing? Or as Mr L says, are you accelerating hard, lift off then put your foot in again and it splutters? It 'sounds like' it could be running rich. Why it is running rich could be down to a multitude of things, including the TPS being out (you could be in the wrong load/speed site for example) or as I think Mr L could be suggesting, the 'overrun cut off' setting in the map. I would have thought that a coil pack/lead issue would cause the engine to hesitate or as Phil G says, misfire. That feels different to the splutter. That's more you put your foot in and the car hesitates (it actually feels like it's slowing down), then catches up again. It feels horrible and as if the engine is breaking (as well as braking). Can you plug your laptop into the ecu? If so then you can start to work through what it might be.

Interesting as this was what mine was doing before making a few adjustments, which then lead to the issue in this thread. I have DTH TB's as opposed to a plenum so rather than go through what I did, it might be helpful to have a look at this first? http://www.tsmotor.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10001/Emerald_K6_IACV___Cold_start_crib_sheet.pdf

Thanks Oily. I've managed to fix it. It was a setting in the Injection Corrections tab. It jumped from 22 at 40deg to 8 at 50deg. With the car partially warmed up, the coolant was at 40/50 degs and the ecu was trying to smooth the large gap. I sorted it by upping the 50deg correction to 18, then 60deg to 9. Ben

I have stripped and cleaned my Jenvey DTH TB's as part of a wider overhaul of all things engine related. I've also installed a bosch wideband lambda and Plex AFR module and DM-6 gauge (very trick!) I have set up the idle as per Emerald's instructions and from cold this afternoon, she fired up first time and purred beautifully at 1100 rpm, despite having very lively cams. After around 5 mins of idling, the AFR gradually moves from around 13 (on start up) to bang on 14.7 as the T's P's start to normalise a little (still cold though). A couple of blips of the throttle (up to around 4,500rpm) and the engine returns to 1100 idle no problem (no dipping below and having to catch itself). Then for apparently no reason at all, after around 5 seconds on idle, the fuel will lean out to 16+ AFR, the engine will cough, start to die, then catch itself as it drops below 1100, stabilises, then after another 5 seconds the same thing happens again. I suspect it is a setting in the map somewhere. Over run cut out is set at +2,500 rpm, so I don't think it's that, plus the fuelling leans out as opposed to cuts out. Any ideas?

Jaysus, why didn't I think of that?! I could have done with reading two days ago!!

Hi Shaun, I'm happy to write it up, but I'll need a copy of Paul's diagram from this thread. Might be worth asking Paul to sanity check what I write as well! Ben

Well all wired in and it works! Well the o/r switch does as I can't check the ecu as I have a problem... Seeing as the electrickery gods have read this thread, I'll take my chances and post it here... New loom has arrived from the ever helpful Emerald. It is a standard affair with the ECU and Fuel pump running via two individual relays integrated into the harness. Putting aside the myriad of wires everywhere else for a second (it's relatively straightforward plug and play), if I connect the +12v ign 'in' on the loom to the +12v ign on my car, turn the ignition on, nothing happens. If I touch the +12v ign 'in' on the loom against my battery, the Main Relay clicks, but the fuel pump doesn't start up (it always used to when I turned on the ignition) and there is no light on the ecu (I'm sure it's red when just ignition, green when engine running iirc - it's been a while). Sadly my fuel system is in pieces atm, so I can't start the engine, but I am puzzled on a number of fronts: Why does the relay not engage on the ignition from the car? Why does the relay engage on the battery, but not start the fuel pump? Incidentally if I connect the (yellow green) fuel pump wire directly to the battery, then the pump spins up. Volts across the battery are 12.4v, volts coming out of the car's ignition wire only 11.8v. Could the voltage drop be the (main relay) problem? (still doesn't explain the fuel pump tho...) Both relay fuses have been checked and are seated correctly...

Not ZZR's but R888 in 195/50 r15. My car rides high due to funny engine, so fine for me at the rear, but 'snug' at the front. Note in second picture (sorry, car in garage in bits so not the clearest photos), the tyres sit slightly outside of my front arches, but this is more likely due to my skew whiff fitting of the arches!

Makes perfect sense. I can do pictures . I appreciate all of the help guys. I am sure that there will be more silly questions to come...!

Ah, so with the o/r switch set up you make two connections from the same fan -ve. Yep understand that now. Well I understand how the o/r switch now works. So if you were to place the relay in front of the fan +ve (which would now run from 30 on the relay) you would have two fused ignition 12V+ supplies at 86 and 87? How would you connect the relay if it were downstream of the fan and connected to the fan's -ve then? (please tell me which pin connects to what) JK yes I am the proud owner of a muiltimeter (but not clever enought to be a student of yours I'm afraid ). The engine is a mish mash of original car loom, k series engine loom, ford puma engine loom and emerald loom. It has been a long hard slog to get where I am, but I now have a design for a shiny new Emerald loom and just need to figure how it all goes together. The fan question has resulted from this new loom and generally trying to tidy everything up. It all currently looks like this :

Thanks all. I can crimp spade connectors on the correct wires and connect them to the things I'm told to, but unfortunately I don't understand electrics (relays!) enough to be able to determine from those two posts what I need to do! I think: 85 - ECU (switched earth) 86 - 12v ign 87 - ? ground? 30 - fan? Does this power the fan? Like the idea of an over ride switch but don't understand how it would over ride the ecu switch unless it is in the ECU --> 85 line so you could switch the earth on regardless of the ecu. Leave the o/r open and the ecu would tell the relay to earth to turn on the fan. Close the o/r switch and the circuit earths turning the fan on. Separately I understand that an o/r on the fan's -ve would work if there wasn't a relay/ecu control. Is it best I don't worry about trying to understand it and do what I'm told? Ben

If you were to add a relay into the circuit, how would you do it then? Unfortunately I can't work out the wiring...

I also preferred your first answer before you edited, I understood that one

Ha! I can't believe how obvious that is now you've said it! I've had my head under the bonnet for 9hrs today and have obviously reached the point where I can't see the wood for the trees (too tired to think of a witty pun on that). Thanks JK . There is no relay in the circuit atm; as you say it runs from ignition to Fuse 3 straight to the fan control switch to fan to earth.

A wiring question please: I am looking to swap the coolant fan control from the radiator fan switch to an ecu control. I have sorted the ECU side of things, but I need an idiot guide to the wiring please. The current cabling goes like this: Green (12+ ignition) --> Rad fan switch --> green/black --> fan --> black (earth) The (emerald) ecu sends the following from Pin 6: 'output swtiches to earth to activate relay and fan' So where/how do I wire this in to make it all work then? Ben

How much do you need to replace the lot? I currently have SRF in mine but it needs replacing (not with SRF I hasten to add!). That Comma looks good, just need to know how much to buy. Ben

I'm going to pretend I didn't read that post

Well that is just the most ridiculously helpful post I have ever read on here! Fantastic and thank you for taking the time! I am in the process of unpicking an engine loom that has been jerry rigged together by three different people at three different time. I'm trying to reverse engineer and trace all the cables - turns out the cam sensor (which I don't need) was pugged into the air temp pin on the ECU whilst the coolant sensor connection had been sliced, the LC-1 wideband unit had fried and I wondered why it wasn't running smoothly! I've designed a new loom with the help of Emerald, but was going to be left with a load of unterminated wires that headed back to the 14way plug. Emerald offered to simply terminate everything for me, but I need to send them the plug. And now I can! Brilliant and thanks again!

I can actually hear angels singing in the background when I look at those pictures (wibble!). Great work! Love the idea of keeping the scuttle as clean as possible. Where have you run the cables to the lights etc? Are they in a conduit attached to the chassis?? I started to strip/tidy mine over the weekend and was delighted to find that my scuttle is presently more eau de mouse droppings rather than beautiful satin black! Goes to show how long it's been since I last had her out!

Hi, I'm in the process of rewiring my engine loom and could really do with finding out the spec/obtaining a replacement 'Grey Engine Plug' as identified in the Caterham Wiring Diagrams. It's the round, 14 way connector that sits between the fuses and the engine loom. Any ideas what make/model it is??? Thanks, Ben

John, any chance you could email me that pdf please? I have a hard copy but all of the crucial cable runs extend beyond the frayed page edges! Thanks, Ben