mikestifel

I was able to get this from McMaster-Carr.  Should do the trick.  I can get the CRC stuff locally, so I might go grab a can just for fun.

Interesting side note, Cosworth used the worst gold paint imaginable when they painted the 1700cc BDR cam covers.  If you're not careful you can wipe the paint right off and reveal the nice blue from the 1600cc.  Ask me how I know.

I'm in the United States, just outside of Philadelphia.

Good call with the ADF.  That was the secret word that made my search work.  I think I've found something that will do the trick.

The last thing I need to do before my BDR goes back in the car it to replace the timing belt.  My manual says "Degrease the toothed pulleys thoroughly and then spray them with a pure molybdenum disulphide air drying bonding resin."  Anyone care to chime in and let me know what "pure molybdenum disulphide air drying bonding resin" might be?  There are lots of molybdenum disulphide products around but that's one I don't think I'm familiar with.

mine is also stamped on the rear of the block below the head.  Mine is BDR 090.

Mine was delivered as a kit.  I get the sense that there was a fair amount of variability coming out of Caterham at that time.

My '87 BDR has it's VIN stamped on a bracket right in front of the left side footwell.  Please excuse the state of my car, I'm working on that at the moment.

I just removed my engine and of course the T9 dumped all of it's oil.  I was planning to refill with Redline MT-90.  Is MTL a better choice?

some progress on the dry sump tank:

CAD (cardboard assisted design) prototype:

Check for fit and clearance:

MDF mockup with fittings:

second check for fit:

Feeling pretty good about it at the moment.  I still need to work out the internal baffling but I'm going to talk to the guy I know who can actually weld aluminum next week.  CAD (the computer kind) says that the internal volume is eerily close to 8 liters which should be plenty of capacity with a good air space.

Thanks for the contact information.  I'll try to get in touch with Arch in the next few days.

I'm pretty sure I've got the oil tank and catch can sussed out.  Just need to make a final prototype and then figure out getting it made.

The current question is plumbing.  I was planning on doing everything in Aeroquip StreetLite hose and fittings but after seeing what that would cost I'm starting to look at some other options.  Is there any reason not to go with the Aeroquip AQP socketless hose?  Obviously I don't want to cheap out on my plumbing, but I'd rather not spend money I don't have to.

The dry sump system is coming along nicely.  It turns out that there isn't an off the shelf oil tank that will fit in my car without shortening the passenger's footwell. Not to be deterred I'm deep into the CAD (cardboard aided design) to make a custom tank that will hold enough oil, fit in the space allotted and clear everything to come in and out for cleaning.  I'm confident I can come up with something but the actual fabrication is going to be challenging.

It does look like there are going to be clearance issues with the right side engine mount.  Does anyone have current contact information for Arch Manufacturing?  Looks like I'm going to need one of their mounts.

This is basically exactly what I'm doing.

I was able to get a titan 5 port kent pump and oil pan from Wilcox and I've found the same oil tank over here.  If I move some stuff around I should be able to fit the oil tank and a breather tank in front of the passenger's footwell.  I wasn't aware of the engine mount issue, but now that I think about it it makes sense that it might be tight.  I've got the resources to make something if I have to.

I would love to see some pictures of your setup if you feel like sharing.

Thanks for the pointers.

I was able to get the important bits from Wilcox.  Now I just have to figure out where to fit an oil tank on a LHD chassis.  In front of the passenger's footwell looks promising but there's some other stuff in that location at the moment.  No end of fun with kit built cars.

It looks like my ride height issues are suspension related, so I'm going to try to sort that for this year and I'll install the dry sump over next winter.

Sounds great!  You folks are lucky to have all of the good BD people on your side of the pond, doing pretty much any sort of engine work causes me much vexation trying to find parts etc.

John Wilcox has been suggested by some other folks.  Would it be better to send an email or call on the telephone?  I'd rather not take too much of anyone's time but I also know email isn't everyone's preferred method of communication.

I've got an '87-88 Caterham with a 1700 BDR motor.  It was assembled from a kit in the states so it's wet sumped.  I'm getting a little tired of banging the oil pan on the road and occasionally having the drain plug give up and dump the contents of the sump on my garage floor.

I'm planning on pulling the engine in the near future to deal with dome other issues, so this might be a good time to address this.  Should I go dry sump?  If so, who should I talk to about getting a kit?  BDs are hen's teeth over here so I haven't been able to find much information about what would be required.

I'm also open to alternative solutions.  

On the PO for my '87 the option box for LSD is checked and someone has also written "STD." on the line.

Easy enough to check to see if your car has one.

That’s correct.

the 1992 guide is very similar in style and content to the guide for my car, which is dated February 1988.

@brightonuk

you might want to check mcmaster if you haven't already, they have a large selection of blind rivets.
 

Thanks very much for sharing.

my mistake.  i forgot to mention that i'm in the states, so as much as i'd love to get them from redline they're not a good option for me.

what to people generally use for replacement blades?  i could use a set for my '87 Caterham and i'm not sure where to even begin looking.  i have a good source for mini parts if the blades are interchangeable.

I had the headers on my '69 Mini Jet-Hot coated in an effort to reduce under hood temperatures.  The coating has performed as advertised and has held up quite well.  I did mine in the high temperature white as you can't really see the headers, so appearance wasn't an issue.  The silver looks quite nice. 

Pictures:  (I hope)

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If shipping to the USA is available I'd like one.