brianjhall31

A quick search today shows that the only source of the original Ferodo Front Brake Pads (P/N FDSR3085) for the 4 Pot Uprated Calipers in the UK is CC. It appears that the only other active suppliers are in Australia! (Holden use them) Does anybody know of: A) An alternative UK supplier B) Alternative other brake pad manufacturers with the same, or better performance, for a R300 K Series road car with regular track days.

I hope my modification will prove to be "reliable". I admit there is now a pipe with pressurized oil coming through into the cockpit area but, by using the Goodridge Brake hose and its specified connectors, I believe it is secure as possible. The major factor is having an indicated Engine Oil Pressure that I am confident is accurate, otherwise you could just have a warning light saying pressure exists (or not!) If you are going to the expense to have a gauge it might as well be accurate. From an economic point of view a system using a high quality (reliable info) electronic sender and gauge is more expensive than the mechanical solution.

I, like many on these forums, had been concerned over the accuracy of the original Oil Pressure Gauge and Sender on my 2003 K Series R300 SV. Looking at the results that others had experienced, and with some very helpful advice from member Brian Deacon, I have just completed the installation of a Mechanical Gauge and connection pipework. I took note that others advise additionally using "Goodridge" stainless braided brake hose rather than the plastic tube that comes with the Gauge owing to the Caterham installation being very exposed to FOD and its better resistance to kinking/chaffing etc. Apart from the selection of the actual Gauge I spent the most time in establishing the best routing for the pipework as this was critical given the Goodridge Hose would be made to order. I also made some tests with similar sized hose to establish if I could route it through the large grommet in the transmission tunnel forward of the gear lever as, in my case, this already had the main dashboard loom and battery cut off switch cables running through it. Fortunately, with a liberal application of Vaseline and a little warmth, it could be done (otherwise it would have meant cutting a new hole and routing elsewhere) I used some spare 1.5mm 3 core round electric cable to map out the best routing bearing in mind the use of existing points of attachment and security. I then cut this to the length required for the Goodridge Hose. All the items were supplied by Merlin Motorsport at Castle Combe. The Goodridge Hose was made will I waited (5 mins) Here is the complete list of parts: Goodridge PTFE Stainless Steel Brake Hose G-600-03 = 21.96 (price depends on hose length required @ 1.22 per 10cm) Goodridge Straight Gauge Fitting G-GA-3 x 1 = 2.83 Goodridge -3JIC/3/8 UNF Straight G-6001-03P x 1 = 8.03 Goodridge 1/8 BSP Straight Female G-321-03P x 1 = 10.68 Adaptor M12X1.5 x 1/8 BSP (MM) ADP-M12X15 x 1 = 4.78 Stack Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge ST3102 x 1 = 42.00 (personal choice as to Bar or PSI, sweep range and manaufacturer) Copper Folded Washer M12 M-COP-M12 x 1 = 0.42 (essential to avoid oil leak between engine mount and M12X1.5 Adaptor) Total inc VAT = £108.85 Readings (normal operating temp) with original Gauge and Sender were showing 3 Bar at 3000 RPM and 1.5 Bar at 1000 RPM Readings (normal operating temp) with Mechanical Gauge are now showing 70 PSI (4.8 Bar) and 40 PSI (2.7 Bar) respectively. Conclusion: Task it not difficult. In my case with the Stack Gauge the existing loom's lighting circuit female spade connectors (12v and Grd) fitted straight on with no modification and a routing for the pipework can be easily established from the current Pressure Sender mount on the engine, L to R across the front of the Sump (using the existing Loom mountings), back down the RH side of the engine and up onto the diagonal Chassis Tube under the induction manifold. From here back along the tube into the transmission tunnel and up the the existing grommet. More important - I am now much happier that I have the correct and reliable Oil Pressure Information!

Same for me. I tried to find the details everywhere, even by checking against the standard parts for other K Series Engined cars. The problem was that the dimensions given for the lengths of the leads did not correspond to my existing ones (which obviously fitted). In the end I called Chris at Redline and had the replacements in 2 days. If anybody does have the details for K Series R300/400/500 it would be nice to know!

Great advice guys! Seems like it is a well known issue. Chris at Redline is going to provide me with the replacement leads. Bottom line is why do they seize into the head when they are only there to provide the connection onto the spark plug. Is there something to coat the rubber with to stop the adhesion (silicon grease?) The way they isolate the plugs from the atmosphere looks more suitable for a marine engine!

Went to change the Spark Plugs on my 2003 R300 K Series and found the leads were impossible to remove from their position in the cylinder head, felt like a dentist pulling teeth. Is this normal? Eventually after much pulling and twisting 3 came out but on the 4th I ended up breaking the plastic cap. Now I need a replacement set. Where is the best source for these currently?

Did you ever get a satisfactory answer to your question? I have the same P/N, Software ECU and would like to see if I can do some testing that everything is good before paying for more specialized advice. Car starts and runs well at top end but is an absolute pain to drive in town traffic owing to tendency to "kangaroo"

Had an issue with my immobilizer (Shurlok EP100) at the weekend. Switched off, waited 30 seconds for beep to indicate "armed", nothing happened, did not worry until went to restart. Battery Cut Off ON, straight away long (5 sec+) beep, tried cycling Battery Cut Off ON/OFF, still long beep. In desperation inserted immobilizer key (no LED lights) and ignition on, then pushed starter button. Engine started (thankfully!) but long beep continued every 5 secs all the way home! Switched off and went through same start cycle again, beep still happening. Eventually tried cycling ignition switch ON/OFF THEN Battery Cut Off ON/OFF. Tried normal sequence again and problem gone. Suspecting the Immobilizer I looked for the supplier (Shurlok) only to find they have ceased business! Has any one else had issues with their Shurlok EP100 (believe they where fitted in the early 2000) and found a reliable replacement? If so do you also have the instructions on how to disconnect and fit the new unit i.e. wiring? Obviously I can't just remove it without compromising my Insurance.

I was looking for this very same item and had no success with trying L7C members and other forums. In the end I had one made by Arch Motors (they still have the jig, speak to Bruce Robinson). Very quick lead time and reasonable price. If you go to any other Roll Cage manufacturers they will have to charge a 1 off price to design and make. I can also give you a good contact if you need the HT Steel Fixings.

I am looking for a Petty Strut, believe the correct P/N is 59047 to fit on my R300 Superlight SV 2003. It has the FIA Roll Bar P/N 59032 fitted.

Penetrating oil (as said the real stuff), leave to soak in and reapply, then heat and, if the hex heads are suspect or rounded, use something like Irwin Nut remover socket (Screwfix) I used this method on my son's Ford Focus Sump Plug (notorious for seizing and rounding off hex) Worked a treat! As always luck will come into whether the bolts shear, but you have to try

Are any of these items still available?

Hi Jonathan, I checked with Panel Shop 2000 and the Code they provided for "Reflex Blue" - NMC B5183 Blue is their own mixing code. So a satisfied customer with a perfect match for the particular car but no global solution for all. However it does prove that you will always find the answer in our forums. Nothing better than good reliable recommendations! Brian

I recently struggled to find a correct paint match for my Caterham Superlight R300 factory built in 2003. Having contacted Martin Phipps at Caterham who proved to be very helpful in locating the original build documents and correspondence with the customer the 2 colours were identified as "Reflex Blue" and "Aztec Orange" BUT no reference codes that codes be given to a paint supplier! After seaching through many forum posts and exploring lots of paint supplier websites, plus ordering a small quantity of "Pantone Reflex Blue" (a shade too light), I was recommended by a local car spares shop to try Panel Shop 2000 in Weston-Super-Mare. Following a short phone call I took them a small sample from the car, in my case the centre section of the fuel cap. Using their extensive range of "chips" they we able to perfectly match my colour and supply me with both a 400ml aerosol and 40 ml touch up kit. The whole exercise just took 2 days from me dropping of the sample to picking up the paint. Costs are £10.95 for the aerosol and £6.95 for the Touch Up Kit (+vat). They also provide the Code for future ordering! Great service! Contact details are: www.panelsandparts.co.uk. Tel 01934 516689