brianjhall31

Like everyone has said, a small piece of adhesive tape over the face of the beeper will work.  You just have to experiment which type of tape works best for you. Screwfix Duct Tape worked for me. 

Hi James,

You will find lots of threads on Blatchat on the K series cooling issues.  It sounds from your post that you have probably learnt that they are prone to air locks, and your process with topping up via small hose has fixed it.   Many owners purchase and install a bleed valve (from sites on eBay) that is installed in the heater line (highest point).  My R300 1800 K Series water temp is fine during normal driving but immediately creeps up when in traffic or town conditions to activate the fan.  The fan will then bring the temp down to "normal" and switch off.   As long as the fan can bring down the water temp to the point when it switches off when the car is static (I do this test on my driveway, not stuck on the M5!) then all is OK.

Happy driving!

I've not seen rivnuts before on the seat mountings but I understand why someone would install them as the allen or hex head bolts normally used make it a task for a dexterous octopus to remove and fit the seat.  Standard process is to slide seat as far forward as possible to gain as much access to the heads of the rearmost bolts, then back to the stop for access to the front ones.  All of this requires your left or right are inside the car (depending on which side seat you are removing) and other arm under the car to remove the nut.

Looks like you might have any easier task.  Just make sure you clean the runners well before reisntalling as the collect all sorts of rubbish and then jam up when you try to move the seat later.  Check the bolts, holes and washers for corrosion and treat with something like ACF-50

I use these guys to source most of my nut, bolt and washer needs.  Good price and very quick delivery.  If you require the painted finish (black) a quick pass with Hammerite smooth spray paint will achieve the finish you need.

https://www.margnor.co.uk

Just to clarify (as my photo does not show it) I also have a 38mm L angle running the full width at the back of the box which is secure with bolts and doubler washers to the scuttle.  Theory based on current EASA test spec of 9.0G forward case load  means 7kg x 9 = 63kg with no permanent movement or deformation/returns to original position.

Not a bit warm down there for those big copper wires Stu?  You can probably see I based my design on aircraft structural testing specs, maybe a bit over the top and heavier than necessary but its me thats mounted just behind it!

I just did the same upgrade.  After much deliberation I decided to move the battery from the original position over the passenger footwell to, where it is fitted on later cars, on the scuttle in front of the heater.  My reasons were 2 fold; 1) the diagonal chassis tubes meant I would have to create another level above the footwell as there is not enough space to mount horizontally without moving ECU and ambient pressure sensor, 2) I was concerned by the proximity of the exhaust causing overtemp.

On my car the existing loom had enough "latitude" to allow simply cutting some of the cable ties and re-routing.  I then created mounting brackets out of allow L section and a thin alloy plate for the Box I bought on eBay.  I also created a simple clamping device from the L section alloy to secure the battery in position after sliding into the box. Bolted onto scuttle using large "penny" washers on the underside to distribute the stress loads.

Attached picture shows finished article in place.

Thanks Scott,  Like all things Caterham, what appears to be a simple upgrade opens up a whole can of worms.  All I want is to not make a retrograde step.

What it does show is there was no coordination between the existing product CR500 users needs and the products for the future cars and buyers.   I look forward to the day when we can re-establish our connections with Caterham Cars and bring the collective knowledge of L7C members to help all of the owners via official advice and publications. 

Hi Scott,

I was using Avon Tyres sizing charts.  CR500 Dia 21.69 inch, ZZS Dia 23.08 inch for the 15 inch tyres.  

Thanks guys!   You are probably already aware that my request is driven by the lack of CR500 tyres in the future and the recommended replacement (Avon ZZS) not being made in the 15 inch size to the exact same width and profile.  The closest (currently I have 195/45R15) is 195/50R15 which has an increase in the overall diameter by 1.39 inch and a quick check by eye shows me I do not have 0.695 inch (the physical increase in the radius) clearance under my front cycle wings!

Hence the move to 13 inch wheels (which appears from the many posts elsewhere on these forums) to be the preferred choice anyway.

The required recalibration of the speedo and ride height/geometry adjustments don't concern me as they are just engineering.

My real concern is making the correct "capital expenditure" decision for the new wheels.  Maybe it is time for the Club to commission a task team to create an evolution chart and database where the inquirer just enters their current wheel and tyre combination and is presented with the recommended products which are currently available?

Does anyone know if you can buy the Apollo 13 x 6 Alloy wheels direct from the "manufacturer".   Clearly Caterham and Demon Tweeks have to add their markups so I'm just trying to reduce any unnecessary costs.

Well I've got the job done now using "locally made" spacers.  Interesting that I had to make them different lengths as the measured gap was 4mm longer on the inboard bracket.

Now the interesting investigation is why isn't there an official drawing showing that the straps from the crotch belts have to be routed on top of the standard Caterham leather seats (if there is one I counldn't find it?).   I put everything back in (using all my socket set extensions fitted together to lock the rear seat mount bolts whilst torquing the nuts by feel) and them spent some considerable time thinking do they really come all the way under the frame and cushion and back to the buckle?

Google to, Blachat Tech Forum, advice, opinions, individual modifications, horror photos of injuries, but where is the official stuff? 

Hi gulf1,  Understand you logic.  Don't understand why the build manuals all show the mounting buckle on the top hat spacer bush on the floor with the aluminium spacer above. Maybe there is a problem with the seat in some configurations?  Whatever my aluminium spacer is 20mm too short so stuck waiting for a delivery from the eBay supplier before I can finish.

For others future info the CC supplied part 30P065A is 30mm in length so check your car before ordering as correct length spacer can be found on eBay.

Hi James,

I've already ordered some longer spacers off eBay.  Just a PITA that my Chassis was constructed with the brackets orientated like that!  Its just like when I bought a new boot cover and found you can't remove the PAX side outer seat belt bolt without loosening the FIA Roll Cage!

Could be worse. When Airbus made the first A380 we discovered that France and Germany we using different CATIA versions and all the wiring looms were too short to connect to the components when installed in Toulouse, cue production delay, reboot and new Program VP.

As you can see, not a small difference!   Have all the other correct parts i.e. top hat spacer, crinkle washer, belt mounting plate, bush.  What is apparent from your photo is the mounting plate on my chassis cross member, looks like it is upside down!

Has anyone else found that the Caterham supplied bush/spacer (P/N 30P065A) is too short.  My car is a factory built SV with lowered floors and the bush/spacer supplied is approx 20mm too short.  Bush supplied is 30mm in length.

1. Do you have a FIA Roll Cage (the 1 with diagonals)?  See my post on the thread "4 Point Harness" earlier today.

2. I will contact one of our local guys who was taking his seats out last weekend to provide tips and advice

As MADMALC says the mounting points that are already available in the crossmember will have been tested and approved in accordance with the relevant regulations.  If you drill any extra holes in that crossmember you will weaken it and negate this approval.  Its just like drilling holes in Roll Cages, you negate the approval.

Remember the first priority is your safety.

As an interesting aside my 2003 R300 SV (factory build) only has 4 mounting points for the Full Harness in the crossmember. And I can confirm that the FIA Roll Cage diagonals do mean that the outer Harness mounting bolts don't have sufficient clearence to be removed.  This means that the simple "I'll just buy and fit a new Boot Cover" turns into a much bigger job! (jack up car, remove suspension units, remove all Roll Cage attaching bolts and extract from car, remove 2 outer seat harness attaching bolts, remove old boot cover, fit new and then rebuild car!)

But the best point is.....there is always someone on Blatchat who has done it before with good advice!

The article Michael linked to covers the removal and installation of a FIA (Track Day approved) Rollbar very well.  I would just add that you should check that the socket you will use to tighten the slim headed bolts inserted from below (the space above the suspension unit) does not have too much "rounding" on its entry face i.e. where the socket and bolt mate together.  If its too rounded, and you are not able to achieve a straight line between the axis of the socket and bolt, you risk damaging the hex corners when trying to torque up (this also makes disassembly difficult!) Torque as per article.

A quick check beforehand saves a lot of pain later!  If the socket face is too rounded just buy a cheap one and grind to obtain a sharp edge.

Torque setting for upper and lower Suspension unit mounting bolts is 54 NM

I agree on the advice given re attending your local monthly meeting and having face to face with current owners.  I helped a prospective local buyer, who is now a proud owner, by introducing him to some local members who were able to show a variation in models and age plus provide hands on details of where to look, and what for.  Remember there is always a big difference in the way a car is presented when for sale, and the person selling it, rather than a chat with an existing owner.  If you are located in the South West we can help!

Using the gov.uk website to check MoT history is always a good indicator of the cars history.

Any of you night owls out there who have upgraded to LED headlights and have their original 5 3/4 spare (complete assembly, not just lens)?  Prefer Black but could accept Chrome version.  Obviously UK spec units only.

I fitted a Car Builder Solutions LED High Level Light without affecting any of the existing fixtures.  Admittedly it is not up there on the Roll Bar but it is the same height you find on an Audi TT or MX5.  Using the adaptor loom to connect in to the existing wiring the routing is very easy, up thru the fuel tank filler and around the chassis frame to route up around the top tube and under the boot cover to the Light mounting tee piece.  Still allows Tonneau Cover to be used and is below the area obscured by a Half Hood.  Dead easy to do and one of the cheapest options.

3M high strength velcro tape from Screwfix. It also can be taken off (carefully) without damaging the paint.  

A quick search today shows that the only source of the original Ferodo Front Brake Pads (P/N FDSR3085) for the 4 Pot Uprated Calipers in the UK is CC.   It appears that the only other active suppliers are in Australia! (Holden use them)  Does anybody know of:

A) An alternative UK supplier

B) Alternative other brake pad manufacturers with the same, or better performance, for a R300 K Series road car with regular track days.

I hope my modification will prove to be "reliable".  I admit there is now a pipe with pressurized oil coming through into the cockpit area but, by using the Goodridge Brake hose and its specified connectors, I believe it is secure as possible.

The major factor is having an indicated Engine Oil Pressure that I am confident is accurate, otherwise you could just have a warning light saying pressure exists (or not!)

If you are going to the expense to have a gauge it might as well be accurate.  From an economic point of view a system using a high quality (reliable info) electronic sender and gauge is more expensive than the mechanical solution.