James D
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Everything posted by James D
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For sale a used caterham 7 jack and associated tools with vinyl bag - £15 exc. P&P
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Thank you for your comments. I am after a bare chassis being powdercoated as well as a rolling chassis with panels removed too as a price comparison. A brief rub down and touch up is probably more appropriate. Kind regards, James
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In the future I would like to have the chassis repainted but would prefer not to undertake the prep work myself. I understand there could be views of whether a full bare chassis repaint or rolling with engine in chassis repaint configuration. Would anyone therefore know of an estimate to have drive in drive out chassis repainted including panels coming off and on please? Either rolling or bare chassis, just want something to compare against please. Thank you James
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My engine is a k1600 supersport. It did some 70 miles on track. Oil had been changed up to circa 300 miles prior as main use is on the road. I saw the mention online of track use calculator as 1 track miles equals 10 road miles. I would either change oil each track day which appears overkill to a degree or reduce / bring forward the scheduled service to compensate as indicated. This is quite a subjective matter I appreciate.
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OK thank you, I have a braided SS line from the head of the engine to the top of the apollo tank with no sign of a valve. I had assumed as the oil level goes up when the engine is off, that the apollo tank returned the oil back into the sump due to forces of gravity, be it rightly or wrongly on my assumptions.
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I have not viewed the anti cavitation tank system so please be easy with me, my query relates to the oil change procedure whereby the apollo tank is drained in conjunction with the sump. With this in mind if when the car is not running the apollo tank returns oil back into the sump, why would you then drain an assumed empty apollo tank too? Kind regards, James
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Thank you for your responses, I had changed the oil and filter prior to the track day which was yesterday and covered 100 miles. Appreciating that the oil remains clean as a whistle and used circa half a cup of oil, I had such a great experience and was ever so lucky with the weather. It quashed my thoughts over possible upgrading but thought I would put the query out there as to change of oil and filter, I know my oil temperature was reaching circa 95 degrees or so on track, on the road it is usually 70-75 degrees. Kind regards, James
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In short is general consensus to change both oil and filter after a track day session, say sub 100 miles worth, or await routine servicing please? Kind regards James
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Thank you all, as the dipstick has no minimum level how are the tolerances defined? Typically approximately 1inch lower than the full mark is the minimum in my experience for generic dipstick? May opt for a pgm device or similar otherwise unless there are other suggestions? Kind regards James
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Thank you, there is no minimum mark on the dipstick so not sure how that correlates to tolerances. Also believe to take readings when engine is running warm or turn off engine when warm but measure within 20 seconds or so. I trust both methods are going to provide very similar readings. Kind regards James
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I have an android and do not know how to upload to another hosting service I am afraid, will research. Should it make a difference my car has a wet sump and Apollo tank.
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I have a 96 k series with a solid yellow plastic dipstick with only a single notch denoting the full mark i assume. My previous caterham have been metal with a yellow plastic telltale. Do I have the correct dipstick? I do not know how to load photos from my phone to blatchat that show the dipstick. Kind regards James
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A new starter motor was the cure with additional wiring as a Belton braces. Thank you all for your help.
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Car is all fixed, it was a voltage drop caused by the starter motor that told the ecu it had 8v so caused the ecu to go into fault despite constantly turning over the engine.
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Morning, I too had hoped the new battery would be the resolve as the garage replaced it recently (one month ago) which they told me solved the problem, but alas it has not.
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Paul, must be engine specific as my previous k1600 supersport eu3 was fine in its starting procedure. I see that yours has been a case of acceptance as I guess mine will follow suit.
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Thank you , the car behaves without fault once it runs whether it be hot or cold, it's the starting that's the issue. From hot it's fine to start.
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I'm experiencing an annoying starting problem from cold with my 1600k series supersport. Trying to start the car has become an issue as when I press the starter button the car fires up & starts, then after less than a second it cuts out. After repeated starting and sometimes having to pump the throttle, the car will eventually start. It is a real shame and a bit of a downer to the start of each drive out especially as the car runs perfectly well when it starts and drives thereafter. The battery is new which I was told would fix the issue but it has not sadly. Any advice would be welcomed. Kind regards, James
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Sevens and Classics. Always received a great service, friendly, helpful and pleasure to deal with. So much so I have had four cars from them.
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All relatively fixed, had a 22 tooth speedo gear installed within 10 mins. Now an indicated 30mph is 31mph true gps speed and an indicated 70mph is 72mph true gps speed so happy bunny.
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Will check the speedo but went on what I was told by the garage. Out of interest would reducing the quantity of teeth on the speedo drive gearbox increase or decrease the speedo readings please?
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Indeed I have a mechanical Speedo. I just could not see how it could not be calibrated to suit rather than defer to a diff replacement. Hope a conversation with John Ostick may resolve but will see.... not unless there is another solution?
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Jonathan, thank you for your prompt response. I like the 3.92 diff I have hence my interest in your third point. Thank you I will pursue accordingly. James
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I have a 1996 reg, 1600k 6 speed to which has a 3.92 diff and 14 inch wheels. My speedo is rock steady but an indicated 30mph is actually 35/36mph and an indicated 60mph is actually 70/71mph. The worm drive within the gearbox has been changed to try to compensate for this with a 25 tooth, but to no avail, however I have been reliably informed that if I changed to the 'standard' 3.62 diff that should have come with the 6 speed box that all my worries will be over and my speedo will be accurate or perhaps over read to which I am most happy with. Question posed, is the a decent resolve or could I have missed another solution that does not involve changing the speedo for digital or running a bicycle speedo for example? Kind regards, James
