Dave J

well it will then suffer with corrosion ...

simply make a small piece of sheet ally to fit the gaps with a 90 degree edge and silicon in place.

maybe becaus they use the Ford 7" and not titan 

sadly link doesn't want to work 

Hi

Does anyone have a link or doc that provides detail on the relay mod to bypass the MFRU please ?

thanks 

Hi

Does anyone have a link or doc that provides detail on the relay mod to bypass the MFRU please ?

thanks 

Hi

Does anyone have a link or doc that provides detail on the relay mod to bypass the MFRU please ?

thanks 

Better non chrome plated nuts are available from Rally Design. 

Otherwise try fitting first them to see if there are any issues 

Check the radiator is square and flat before fitting. 

The radtecs don't like being stressed on the mounts and ideally need to be mounted with soft antivbration mounts 

CSR have the bleeds but us lesser mortals dont 

Prestone coolant is my choice, and recommended by Radtec radiators

insulate the tank

there will be whine in 4th as it’s direct drive through the gearbox.

If the diff

is quiet for the first 6 or so miles then that because it hasn’t yet heated up and expanded, altering the clearances on the diff internals . As from the mounting bushes being the cause 

it’s buggared as the ally has a coating on it 

then soapy water float and squeegee

warm the nose and the plate first - leave them in the airing cupboard for a few hours 

it’s a scam, don’t bother trying to work it out. 

His account is where your money will go, your garage is not where his make believe car will go ... simples 

fit a wired bicycle speedo from sigma. Then you have a multi function unit for trip, average speed, max speed, clock, temperature, speedo, etc etc 

about 02 / 3 I think 

I can’t see any sealant being a long term fix, no doubt it will fail at the most inoportune moment .

I would replace with a decent unit like a bosch or such like .

Auto tensioners are usually disrupted on the surface of the plastic roller, I always linish these flat and polish with P1200 paper to avoid uneven stress on the belt.

Is the wisdom still to change to a manual tensioner ?. Or is the auto Ok with linished roller ?.

thanks 

it’s pointless commenting, giving ones opinion, feedback or any such like.

Just be done with it and let it evolve as anyone sees fit. 

you will only be met with all the pc comments from the modern management phrase book and how it will be considered and discussed. Then it will get kicked into the long grass for the next meeting etc etc and so it goes around 

does it go into reverse after you have selected 1st ?.

Also check the saddle bush - google type 9 saddle bush for location 

and that before we even get onto why are there 10 different fonts on each page

I once twisted my prop, Chards in Bristol refurbed the prop, replaced the tube and UJ's with uprated items and ballanced. All for a very reasonable sum.

http://www.prop-shaft.com/

dj