rich71

Modified starter received, fitted and stated, the difference is it has a longer gear to previously so starts closer to the ring I must say Powerlite responded very well to the problem and rectified the starter promptly and without any fuss, that is good customer service so thank you

Well I am unsure, the Position of the starter face to the ring gear with the spacer is as they expect so presume it is a one off problem with the starter I bought, they are sorting it out though and it’s not spring yet

the very nice people at Powerlite are going to sort everything out and make it suit Thank you Powerlite

the distance i have measured from starter (including spacer) to teeth on flywheel is as they expect it to be so that is a positive sign, it's just that the gear doesn't go that far (or beyond by an amount to mesh) but i am in conversation with them and hopefully something can be sorted, thanks

Problem identified, the gear starts 10mm closer to the motor than the original, making the standard spacer 10mm too thick......now a question of what to do about it

Hi, I did indeed have to grind a bit off the webbing on the block to clear the connector until starter and spacer were flush before bolting...that was quite a struggle holding it from underneath and checking through the top with the torch, repeat several times...i can also see from underneath now the clearance is there and can pass a cable tie behind That is correct, I also didn't think it would be possible to misalign the starter as it is fixed via the centre diameters, which leads me to thinking the gear is not reaching the flywheel as it has obviously got to the end of its travel to wizz away I am going to remove the starter and compare the 2 gear travels but i would have thought i would have noticed 10mm or so shorter travel on a quick glance before fitting as that is what it would at least be to miss the flywheel as i can see the wear marks on the old starter gear over this distance

Reads as though spacer is required, which is what it said when I bought it.... could it be just out of line with the flywheel?

Yep rac430

Hi, I have fitted a new Powerlite starter to my k series, what a pain getting it in!.....everything all in place and wired, a fan fare and turn of the key produced the sound of the starter motor spinning but no engagement of the flywheel. I have used the spacer, is this required?

i presume minutes not degrees.... 25 would be quite some toe out and would resemble charlie chaplin :-)

Mine had some toe out when i first bought it and it was as described, twitchy on the road....this is now set neutral and is vastly different and is a joy to drive and i feel i am now getting the most of what i have manual states 0 degrees 20 mins +/- 10 mins toe in for road use (Assembly guide issue 1 - k series)

Sold to jonathan

I have both the K series Apollo tank oil pipes available which go from the tank to the sandwich plate, unused, can post at cost £20 - SOLD

I think that is exactly what may of happened.... Incidentally i have had a proper look and the ali in that area is very thin in places, the opposite side also has the crack and suspect the same. Anyone else suffered from this?

there was a faint crack there before, but now there is a hole....i just don't know how a hole can appear as if the piece fell out (which it has) i will get the epoxy out and hopefully get a good paint match for the area

chassis looks just fine (i think maybe the picture) and there is no white powder on the ali either which would indicate corrosion...the piece looks torn

Thanks Jonathan exhaust is on the other side, the belt buckle doesn't line up either....i did perhaps think if something was in the hand (screwdriver or something) when they got in the car it may dent/scratch but this wouldn't prise out the piece which is a good fit and the edges line up, my initial thoughts were they saw a crack in the paint and 'investigated'...if i refitted this piece however there would still be gaps around which would need filling/welding, i would like a proper job done rather than a bodge, it's the paintwork which would need to be good as i'm sure i could fill

I have had my car MOT'd today and have found a hole has appeared in the corner of the door opening...the piece of ali was loose but next to the hole, how on earth could this have happened? I have been back to the station, who obviously claim no responsibility but it wasn't there before and looks prised out, i really don't know what to do and am somewhat p***d off I am also looking for a solution to filling the hole long term https://www.dropbox.com/s/2pcntc0ph815vdu/Chassis%20hole.JPG?dl=0

Just for info if you do decide to have a go, obviously in a seven some of the time and actions can be stripped out http://www.tadts.com/instructions/engine/100016.html

the starter motor is only on briefly so wouldn't have thought it would be a problem

no problem, i bought one myself from them Rich

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Capri-MK2-3-Cortina-MK4-5-New-Genuine-Ford-clutch-arm-boot-spring-/282156331043?hash=item41b1d3f023:g:stwAAMXQgb1RS2MR

yes i certainly could do that John

Forgot to add an update for my installation, i went through the advice given/previous articles etc and the installation was completed with no oil leaks...and yes i have driven it since (around 1000 miles including one track day) I took pictures of each stage if anyone is interested and is wanting further clarification of the tasks involved and what to expect the outcome to look like.

Super condition (recent refurb) 15" Prisoner alloys (full set of 5), Toyo R1R tyres 195/50 R15 (superb grip in the wet and dry) i will measure the treads later but one is brand new (6mm tread) and wheel unused since refurb as spare, 2 have 4-4.5mm tread and 2 have approx 5.5mm tread I will add some pictures later but they are pretty much immaculate although one wheel has a small stone chip and small dent in rim (not marked though), none have any curbing marks, complete with centre caps and locking bolt/key https://www.dropbox.com/sh/junb5whgjaz4j8s/AACALdiFzi6fxHt2SmrLw7FJa?dl=0 NOW SOLD