NeilCSR

Turnbuckle has worked fine for me - now several years since the original post (to which Jonathan referred originally).  Unobtrusive, easy to fit and cheap.  Only use it when solo as problem doesn't arise when passenger seat occupied.

Taking Bricol's advice above re. Rivnuts into sliders.  To protect against galvanic I'm going to stick some wide(ish) helicopter tape around the holes on the outside of the floor so that there isn't direct alloy/steel or stainless contact between penny washer and floor, and add Tef-Gel around there which should hopefully overcome any possible galvanic.

Did the helicopter tape layer on the exhaust bracket/body fixing point and it's holding up well after quite a few years.

I'm fairly sure it's a nut.  Dismantled mine (CSR) last winter when the scuttle came off and I'm pretty certain that there was a nut on the other end.  Could always replace with a rivnut?

Neil

I'm in the process of getting all four wings and nosecone wrapped with clear film, too many stonechips in these vulnerable areas and this will help.  Being done by Dale at UlitmatePaintProtection so will report back when completed.

Rest of bodywork is polished and coated with one of the hydrophobic nano coat products - have tried a couple which have been OK but will be trying several others.  Aim to get a good long-lasting finish that's easy to wash.

Not that I'm being too OCD about a 'pristine' finish, rather I'm too lazy to spend lots of time dealing with chips and then washing/polishing everything again and again.  Want to make life easy so more time on the road....

Neil

Tried all sorts including IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol), tar remover and WD40 and found that White Spirit was the best.  Hate the stuff (vapour is obnoxious) but it is the most effective solvent for attacking the adhesive.  Always clean off surface after with IPA before affixing replacement foam strip in case the paintwork doesn't like the White Spirit but never had any problems.

Neil

Arrowed.....:

May be in a slightly different position in the 260 but in (my) 200 it's just in front of the heater.

Neil

Hi Jonathan,

Quite likely, I'd looked at the diagram above and interpreted/assumed it to cover a segment of the MFR (Fuel Pump relay), - identifying pump as 'PCM' and the fuel level sender as 'FTL' - and the pump/sender unit so bridging a segment of the overall wiring loom diagram and part of the MFR.  No colour coding for wires, just the schematic.

Neil

MIne does have an MFU / MFR / MFRU / 'Squarish black box' or whatever you want to call it.  And it does have relays inside.  It's not on the wiring diagram pdf that I use (nor is the ECU) but - having had problems with the fuel pump relay previously - it's there....

The other relays - stacked next to the fuse block are quite different, identified separately on the loom wiring layout.  The MFR is beyond the 'Grey Engine Plug' which isn't covered on this diagram.  From the Fuse Key, F13 (YG) feeds to P9 on this plug.

Neil

Good news....

They aren't too expensive to replace, standard Rover unit (or are on mine - 2007 vintage) and also quite easy to replace as well if there is a problem.

Neil

Isn't it part of the MFR?

It's a beast.  Close your eyes and the V8 rumble/bark out of the Akrapovitch exhaust will send shivers through anyone standing too close.  Not the volume, just the visceral nature of the noise coming out.  Makes the CSR sound positively tame.

White, Carbon roof and other bits - paddle shifters etc. - it's well specc'd and in very good condition having only done 65k since new.

Not mine but my son's, he's now off afloat for the next year or so which means that the car won't be getting any use whilst taking up (valuable) space on the drive.   Last main dealer service in July, MOT next July.

Up on Autotrader at £16,500

Neil

Sunday afternoon - spotted twice - once in the High St and later going east through Allington en route from Devizes.

Also orange Superlight in the High Street

I was on two wheels rather than in Seven

Suggest embracing an extension of 'caveat emptor' in so far that all potential buyers should be wary of anyone not quoting a price.  Putting something up for sale indicates that the seller actually wants to sell the item, but if no-one responds they will (possibly) adapt their strategy to one that is more likely to succeed.

Every community comprises a spectrum of opinions, attitudes and behaviours so we can't expect everyone to act in a gentlemanly way - both as seller and buyer - but as in all communities, especially relatively small and confined groups such as this, word will get around and anyone acting in a not-so-responsible manner will gain a reputation for such.

Thankfully whenever selling/buying anything on here over the years I've never experienced anything other than honesty and openness, but maybe I've just been lucky.

I don't see any need to set a rule that every item listed must show a price, if any don't they should be treated with circumspection and the item(s) left to rot on the shelf...

Neil

Orange R300 parked in the middle of the High Street earlier today (Sat 21 Sept).

National Physical Laboratory (NPL) in Teddington offer a calibration service.  They should be as good as anywhere.

Sent my old Britool wrenches there to be checked and calbrated a year or so ago, they turned them around quite quickly and they were pretty well spot on.  Wonderful bits of kit, reversible, beautifully made - when Britool made superlative tools.

Neil

Sadly, my other toy is now up for sale:

Too little use, deserves better.  Always garaged, high spec with plenty of useful extras.  Covered by BMW Extended Warranty insurance since original warranty period expired.  £11,500 (with standard pannier frames) but full set of Metal Mule IIs available separately.

Click here for Autotrader link

I put rivnuts in there when doing the scuttle recently for the reasons you've outlined above.  No problems encountered other than the bolt head being larger (sticks out further) than the rivet, but I used black torx head bolts so not very prominent.

I had a similar issue a year or so ago - single dodgy connector in multi core connector on MFR feeding pump relay.

Took ages to find but minimal time to fix.

TWICE today - first time on A4 going West just out of Marlborough, then later (3.45ish) between Lockeridge / Fyfield on way to A4 a bit further West of Marlborough.  Second time I was in the CSR....

Neil

CSR problem - Blue7's description is very familiar, particularly with CSR #3.  Mine always seemed to get worse when car was properly warm/hot.

I've alleviated (not fully cured) the problem by repositioning the sensor (standard position doesn't quite line up fully and isn't radial - i.e. at a slight angle).  Did this by fabricating a bracket so that the sensor now points directly at the middle of the toothed wheel and perpendicular at that point.  Also gapped to just under 1mm.  Secondly earthing the sesnor firmly at the rear part of the chassis, and thirdly by working on the cleaning the gaps in the 'wheel' with a wire brush and getting rid of corrosion on the surface of the wheel (light single coat of POR15).

Now only starts going haywire when well into three figures (it was 50+).  Ideally the earthing should be improved at the speedo end as well, which I'd guess would help.

Been running on waterless for two+ years now.  Still waiting for everything to go wrong, but it hasn't, so far.

However....  The long-standing coolant pressure problem is solved (rads weeped - tried and tested two, the pressure was that great);  it doesn't run any hotter - or seem to;  the heater works fine;  it's a CSR so heat build-up generally is a problem - but the use of waterless hasn't exacerbated that issue at all.

Before switching I took advice from tuners I respected, discussed issues voiced here and then went ahead.   To date it's been fine.  At worst, it's performing as it should, and delivering 234bhp / 186 lbft on the Northampton RR which isn't bad for a 200.

No desire to change back.

I was at Sevens & Classics at Brands last week and saw a pile of CR500s there.  Not sure what sizes as I didn't look that closely (not in the market at present) but worth giving them a call.

Neil

Taking the screen unit down to Sevens & Classics - refit while I wait.

Thanks for the recommendation.

Neil

Taking the screen unit down to Sevens & Classics - refit while I wait.

Thanks for the recommendation.

Neil

Many thanks for the advice.  I'll check (and cost) all the options out on Tuesday and then decide whether to get it fitted in the current frame or try it myself.  Either will be a lot cheaper than a CC replacement.

I blame the cat.....