thompster

Just taken the engine out to investigate my edal vibration to find the clutch plate has disintegrated.  The flywheel side of the plate is perfect, the pressure plate side is barely worn but half the plate has shredded.  The rivets are still intact.  Photo below.  The AP cover looks fine.  The vibration started on a long motorway run back from Le Mans.  What's the likely cause so I can avoid it happening again?

Thanks those that have paid - over half so far.  The first 20 orders will go out in the next couple of weeks, the remainder will be in the second batch.

There's a few posts about wiring them up - very simple I believe but not read up recently

As to colour choice, Blue took an early lead but orange is catching up.  Me?  Orange.

And here it is.... Jason at DRE has confirmed numbers and payment method. Please bear in mind that this is a large order for a small company so please be patient and allow some time for delivery.

As per the first post there are two standard colour choices: green-amber-red and green-blue-red. See pics on the website. Custom colours are available for a surcharge (see post #1).

Here's what you need to do:

1) Log into Paypal

2) Choose to pay for goods and enter sales@digitalrace.co.uk as the seller/recipient.

3) The amount for standard colours is £62.10 including postage.

4) IMPORTANT: In the Notes section, state that it's for the L7C Group buy, your colour choice and your Username (or whatever I've called you below).  

5) Check your delivery address is correct before submitting.

6) Finally, PM me to say you've paid and what your colour choice was.  Paypal is the easiest way to do this.  If you don't paypal please contact Jason directly on the same address to arrange BACS.

And here is the final list:

thompster*
Chris Coxall *
Superwhite R283 
Nick Bassett
Mark w Mylespeed
Strangely*
sbryer 
dom69 
RA 
AndrewE 
abowles1976 
BigCol
raw 
DarenW 
PaulHead
Michael H 
Michael O'Reilly (FB)*
BigRabs
Kljd
wodybode
Cmaidment
leon
spaceman 
simon h *
Neil O'Brien fb*
John B (2CV)
DannyBoy
Pete R (FB)

Thanks

James.

Added Dannyboy and also John (myothercarsa2CV).

Just finalising payment details which will be paypal or bank transfer.  Given the number of people taking advantage it will take around 3 weeks from first to last to build and send them all out so it'll be first come first served.

Taking my engine out in the next couple of weeks to investigate my clutch vibrations.  Of anyone has any 'new old stock' clutch parts they want rid of before I buy from Burtons let me know.

So, with ins and outs we're on 25 - that's enough for maximum discount making them just £60 instead of £80. I'll confirm how we all order.

In the meantime please post on here if you want to be added (or if you've changed your mind so we get numbers right)

thanks, James

thompster
Chris Coxall
Superwhite R283 
Nick Bassett
Mark w Mylespeed
Strangely 
sbryer 
dom69 
RA 
AndrewE 
abowles1976 
BigCol
raw 
DarenW 
PaulHead
Michael H 
Michael O'Reilly (FB)
BigRabs
Kljd
wodybode
Cmaidment
leon
spaceman 
simon h
Neil O'Brien fb

John B (2CV)

DannyBoy

23.. 

thompster
Chris Coxall
Superwhite R283 
Nick Bassett
Mark w 
sjl1
Mylespeed
Strangely 
sbryer 
dom69 
RA 
AndrewE 
abowles1976 
BigCol
raw 
DarenW 
PaulHead
Michael H 
Michael O'Reilly (FB)
BigRabs
Kljd
wodybode
Cmaidment

Thanks Oily, that makes sense and explains why my throttle was set as it was.  When I reduced my SS cam  overlap i could just have given the idle some help. I'll remember that for when I next time them (and to refit the butterfly the right way round :-)

My gaiters are Quinton Hazel QG1001.  Same as escort mk1 and mk2 and capri.  Pretty much any motor factor will have them. Ball joint boots should be available from any old school motor factors - you'll need an example for sizing.

Quick update... 18 people so far which should be good for 15 quid off. I'll give it another week and see if we can get up to the full 20 quid discount.

List so far is as follows.

thompster
Chris Coxall
Superwhite R283 
Nick Bassett
Mark w 
sjl1
Mylespeed
Strangely 
sbryer 
dom69 
RA 
AndrewE 
abowles1976 
BigCol
raw 
DarenW 
PaulHead
Michael H

Neil O'Brien fb

Fixed it, details below for the record.

Took the car out yesterday and had the same on/off throttle response and also a fast idle, dropping back after a while that looked like an air leak.  I'd already googled throttle-stop screw adjustment and found loads of old posts including from Oily saying that the butterfly should close completely at idle.  Apparently on an EU3 car the IACV does all the work and manually overriding it with the stop screw just confuses it. Anyway, I took the throttle body off and compared it to some pictures and found I had the butterfly the wrong way around.  There i an embossed '6' on it which I had facing out and it should have been facing in.  I removed and refitted the butterfly, let it centre itself before nipping up and lo and behold the car is driving fine again.

Footnote - seen Ian's post about stalling.  I had that same problem when I fitted and timed my Supersport cams.  IIRC I'd set them at the upper limits of Oily's figures so I reduced the exhaust cam lift slightly and the stalling went away and the idle improved.

Footnote 2 - Thanks Revilla for OBD tips.  I also get 3.9% for the TPS at idle, rising to 78% fully open. Expected to get 100% but never mind.

Thanks Oily and all.  Revilla's description is pretty spot on for what I'm getting. IIRC the butterfly is fully closing at idle and the stop screw stays a turn or two off the stop.  It never stalls though so I've not thought anything of it.  I'll have a play at the weekend and see if I can smooth the transition that way.  My OBD reader does live data so I should be able to see the TPS changing - neat!

That's 12 so far plus potentially one more offline.  15 looks very possible,,,

I did - but only the once so might have got it wrong and will try it again.  Behavior seems reasonable given I've taken away the thing that softens throttle response but quite surprised at just how much difference it's made.  I was looking at 52mm bodies this pm but if its the same I'll go back to 48mm (That's unless another throttle postion reset improves it)

I've just carried out the DVA-style K series throttle body mod - removing the cast 'wedge' from the butterfly and soldering up the holes.  First impression is a noticeable difference, perhaps too noticeable though.

Touching the throttle gives a much faster but also much harsher response e.g. driving in traffic becomes a series of clunky surges. It might be a case of relearning to drive  so I'll persevere for now but tempted to change it back.  Given this mod is said to replicate most of the benefits of a 52mm throttle body, does that have the same effect or does it deliver better overall flow without such a concentrated affect on very slight opening?

I have a standard sierra open diff. Changed the oil soon after getting it on 10k miles. The oil was grey and the magnetic plug was visibly doing its job. Noise-wise and backlash aside I get a whine when hot at 50mph.  TADTS.  Just some more than others.

evening all.. I've got details now and created a new thread to keep things simple.

I now have details from DRE for the SLD5 Sequential shift light system:

They retail at £79.95.  If we manage five orders there's a healthy £10 discount: £69.95 each

If we can get to 15 the price comes down to £65.00 each and 25 orders will see a once in a lifetime not-to-be-missed offer of £60.00 each

Postage is a very reasonable £2.10 1st class signed for service.

Standard lamps fitted to the shift light are:-
Green, green, amber, amber, red
Green, green, blue, blue, red

Or for that custom look none standard colour options carry a £5 surcharge.  See the DRE website for details.

These were very popular last time around.  Expressions of interest below please then we can look at setting a date to get orders in - end of the month seems reasonable.

Thanks,

James.

http://www.caraddiction.co.uk/sld5.htm

Have made contact prices and details coming soon....

Thanks John (and JK), I'll drop them a line tomorrow and post details here (along with a pointer to it in a more frequently read section). I'll email you details too.

Funnily enough, and completely unrelated, I was reading your website earlier today as I decided to solder up my throttle body butterfly.

upgradeitis begins.. ;-)

Looks like they commonly do group buys, getting down to about 60 quid for order of 30 or more. Not sure what the etiquette is for this kind of thing, but happy to drop them a line and see what they can do unless anyone else wants to do it..

Despite what the rules say there are some absolute shockers on the road and people seem to get away with it.  There's a long running pistonheads thread full of photos of essentially fraudulent plates on cars - you have to see some it to believe it.  The qashqai on the link below give an idea how much the old bill care..

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=1534373&i=4320

My understanding of the rules is that the British Standard puncture repair requires an inspection of the inside of the tyre. so by default a repair applied from the outside doesn't meet BS.  But as a few of us have said they work just as well as the mushroom-type pulled through from the inside.

Scott - you're spot on. For runflats, the tread part of the tyre is essentially identical to a non-runflat, only the sidewall is different so there is no practical difference in puncture-repairability. RFTs only have a certain run-flat life (e.g. 50 miles) so if a tyre has been run flat and started to delaminate its a bin job - hence the BS internal inspection requirement. Sadly my experience of tyre fitters is that they don't know very much about the products they're fitting.

I've used the strings that Ian linked to on runflats twice and kept them in until the tyres needed replacing.  Very easy and worked a treat.  I would have had 'proper' repairs done but all tyre fitters incorrectly believe you can't repair a runflat.