Kal-El

I bought one off FB from the Caterham group 2 years ago for £1200 for the complete kit.

I posted a while ago about a new K-Series engine build I did with Roger Fabry and Jason Langan at Hellier performance. I just thought I'd report back, specifically regarding the steel rods I decided to use from Max Speeding. I paid £200 inc vat and delivery for them and so far no dramas. I've now done 3 track days, and several thousand miles on road. I still see people searching around for the single tang roads in scrap yards and paying silly money for them and thought it's about time someone commented on the alternatives. Jason uses them in his Mitsubishi Evo builds and hasn't had any issues with them. Perhaps its no longer necessary for searching around for 20 year old rods in rusty scrap yards... Has anyone else used them? Mine were the updated design as requested by Dave Andrews.

Yes, both the starter and alternator had to come off. It definitely sounds slower turning over when cold. I'll check those figures.

I've just fitted a Caterham dry sump to my 1.8K car however it now struggles to start from cold. Once its warm its fine. I'm using the same magnetron starter that was originally on the car. I've also replaced the batter for another PowerVamp type. Any ideas? Is the dry sump adding too much resistance or have I simply wired it up wrong? Any ideas welcome.

All you need is a Wipac Land Rover led relay for £12 off eBay. P

Hi I'm using clear indicators however you can buy the bulbs in white which will work with coloured lenses if you don't like the clear lenses. One other thing worth mentioning is the standard metal reflector which was really dull on my car, so I used some 3M silver reflective tape to increase the "reflectiveness" Ill post some pics if I can next week. P

To answer your question, upgrading to decent LED bulbs makes a huge difference. Auto bulbs direct can help. I've got Twenty20 382 60 Amber bulbs for indicators and the 380 red for tail/brake lights and they are a massive improvement. You can also get the same 360 degree led bulbs from eBay. Well worth it in my opinion. Just ordered some Phillips Extreme Vision +130% H4 bulbs for the headlights too. Will see how they go. I also did the front indicator / DRL conversion that someone posted on here using a switchback white/Amber led using a Land Rover tail lamp holder and it's genius! Piers

What spec cylinder head are you running it on?

What are you upgrading to Julian? Piers

5x KN anthracite 10 spoke KN wheels with 4 legal but worn Avon CR500 tyres. Wheels generally in good condition. Open to offers. Wheels available in 1 week.

Two 6x13 anthracite wheels in good condition.No tyres £120, available now.

Still urgently required.

Magnecour red are working great for me.

The 1800 Caterham uses the 1600 flywheel as the 1800 won't fit the bell housing. TTV flywheel has the correct 1600 flywheel pattern.

My flywheel came in just over 3kgs on our kitchen scales, much to the annoyance of my other half! P

Hi Andy, i went with the Caterham AP plate, but saved £80 buying the cover from Burton. Same part no. K

Got the 6x13's just need the 8x13's now. Help! :)

I have their 3.2kg flywheel and it's great. Made a huge difference over standard. Not sure I'd want to go any lighter as it does impact drivability. Can't comment though on the race version however Ben at TTV recommend the 3.2. Give them a call.

Very good question. I've just been thinking the same. When you add the £80 cost of a refurb to Bilsteins, plus blasting and powder costing various bits its not far off the £145 cost of buying new ones. If you buy a new set, you're then only £100 off a new set of Nitron Streets. I did email Nitron, as I thought about a set but I wanted them supplied with the turquiose blue springs but they wouldn't do it. They said they could charge me an extra £300 and supply some blue springs to go with them though. Why can't they do it? In my mind the turquoise blue springs are synonymous with the Niton brand. The Street series dampers look a bit dull to me. Makes no sense. I could spend £30 and have the black ones re-poweder coated anyway. Why is everything so difficult?

Hi Mankee, Over the first 450 miles the engine got better and better each time I took it out. It seems to have plateaued now. (I swapped the running in oil out at 600) It's also now running very rich, which according to Andy is because the compression has come up due to the rings bedding in. More compression requires less fuel. We were going to adjust the map on sunday as its still limited to 6500 rpm, however the 02 wideband sensor is faulty so we've rescheduled for this weekend. (Pending a new one arriving in time). It's a lot of fun. 2 things that now need doing as a result though. I run 15" wheels, and just discovered that the tyres are nearly 8 years old. Eeek. No wonder its sliding all over the palce, even worse since the upgrade. (They're CR500's) I'm trying to find 13's and I'll get the new ZZR's. 2nd thing is the brakes. I actually thought they were pretty good until I drove Andy's integra (standard 280mm single pots with DS3000's). I want my eyes to pop out my head when I pres them. :)

When I had my Elise one of the online shops had a comprehensive refresh kit which included all the parts (except shocks) that you'd need. Is there something similar for the 7? What problems am I likely to face? Replacing bushes etc?

The car is used as a fast road car. The DS3000 were great from cold and just got better as they warmed up so I'm confident they'll make a good road pad. I loved the feel and level of bite they provided and they are half the cost of Pagid RS15 or their replacement, the RST3. I guess I can try them with the standard rears to start with.

Is there a comprehensive guide anywhere detailing all the part numbers I'll need for a full suspension refresh? I'd like to start getting all the parts together for a winter rebuild. To inc bushes (standard or poly?) nut's bolts, tie rod ends, covers etc etc... I have an imperial S3 wide track with Bilsteins. Thanks

I had the pleasure of driving a friends Honda Integra type R fitted with Ferodo DS3000 pads on the front on Sunday and they were absolutley epic. I'd like to get a front set for my car (std calipers) but I'm wondering what I should run on the rear? Will the standard pads still be ok? What rear pads are you running with your DS3000's? Thanks

I would like a pair of superlight 8 spoke wheels (anthracite or silver) 8x13. Condition not so important but must not be damaged. Cash waiting Thanks