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Over-revving k-series


Andy Watson

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I'm sure that this topic has been done before, but I'd appreciate some thoughts on a problem that has developed with my 1.6k. The car's been laid up for most of the winter (probably the first mistake), but yesterday I thought it was time for a short blat. After charging the battery and reconnecting, the engine started ok first time. Reversing out of the garage, no problem, and on to the road. After setting off I was immediately aware that the engine revs weren't falling on changing down, maybe only down to about 2.5k. I got the car back and first of all checked the throttle cable. I was suspicious that it may be sticking as the last time the car was out, the engine seemed to take a while for the revs to drop after changing gear and such. The cable was ok and a sprayed the pedal mount with WD40 to be on the safe side. I started the car and immediately the revs shot up to about 2.5-3k. Engine off. Next, out came the IACV. I've read that this can cause problems. With the IACV out I switched on the ignition and the plunger slowly moved out of the valve - too much actually as it left the vale completely. This was a bu**er to get back in and now I think that I may be faulty - if it wasn't before. When I switched on the ignition and then I noticed that the IACV chatters, not only as the ignition is switched on but when it's swtched off as well!I started the engine and again, ~3k revs. So, now I'm not sure what to check next. Any ideas would be appreciated. Have I knackered the IACV anyway?

 

Andy

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Andy

 

Mine behaves similarly to this.

 

Certainly got the IACV chatter with both ignition on and off.

 

Also revs decay only slowly between gear shifts at low speed (say in traffic) although it returns to normal idling eventually.

 

Bozz

 

 

 

My Chocolate Orange here

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Jon, yes I did. But now I can;t recall whether I switched off the ignition after depressing the accelerator 5 times. MAybe this will make a difference I'll try again, Thanks. Boz, yes the revs always seemed to fall slowly. But now they don't seem to drop much at all.
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My throttle stuck open at Cadwell on the last Track Day last week. A bit hairy as it decided to do it between coming out of Mansfield and coming off full throttle for the Mountain! Fortunately it was sticking at around 2.5k and not wide open and hooking back with your toe got the revs down.

I checked the usual suspects only to find that the pedal had moved onto the fulcrum secuing peg ( there are 3 of them to alow differing lengths of right leg and was binding as a result.

Unbolting and freeing solved the immediate problem but its something that I will have to look at befor the next TD

May be worth a look.

 

Grant Taylor

OBNS Motorsport

 

😬 183 BHP of Black and 'Stone Chip' excitement. 😬 here

 

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Sounds just like my recent tickover problem. Came down to an inlet on the throttle body which wasn't blanked off. This results in unfiltered air begine taken in which resulted in the throttle body getting all black and dirty such that the butterfly didn't close properly.

 

See here for the full story.

 

Steve.

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Thanks for all the replies. I think the throttle is closing ok. I have had the air filter off (I have the plastic plenum rather than throttle bodies) and can see that it's closed. I noticed quite a while ago that it wasn't shutting properly owing to the plastic being slightly oval. Squeezing the plastic at the appropriate place allows it to shut. I found that tightening the jubilee clip at the right point pulled the plastic back allowing the throttle to close properly. But I don't think that this is the same problem. The revs are much higher than before anyway.
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Andy,

 

I thought mine was closing properly too until I took the whole thing off and cleaned it. After that all was well. So it may be worth a double check. Not sure about the plastic body but with the alloy one if you allow it to spring shut it closes with a nice ding whereas when it was dirty it was more of a dull thud.

 

Steve.

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If you want to check if it is the IACV, when the engine is revving high, pinch the hose from the IACV until it is flat. If the engine dies then the air is entering via the IACV. If the engine continues to run at high RPM then you have a air leak somewhere else, E.G. across the butterfly etc.

 

Oily

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Andy,

 

I found one on ebay and paid just over a tenner inc p+p. Just checked and there's a new one here for rather more.

 

You need to look for part no. SBZ008. The new one I got was supposedly from a 1.4 but seems fine in my 1.8. The other markings after the SBZ008 were different but this doesn't seem to matter.

 

The other place you could try is a local Rover parts shop or maybe local motor factor. No idea what CC would charge.

 

Steve.

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Been there & got the Blue Peter Badge (bought it off ebay *wink*) Try driving through the middle of Sheffield with 2500 revs as tickover 😳

 

If you do take the IACV valve to bits put it in a plastic carrier when you get it apart (save looking for the spring that shoots out and ends up at the bottom of your pit)

 

I'd bet Mark Durrants wages that it's the throttle body *tongue*

 

rog

C7 TNT - it's Dynamite!(Honda Irish Green and Peugeot Graphite grey)

 

 

Edited by - roger heeley on 29 Mar 2006 18:55:01

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