Bewls Posted January 5, 2006 Author Share Posted January 5, 2006 Excellent, now we're getting somewhere I'll go back out into the garage now and take the pipe off at the fuel pump end and see what the flow rate it there. If its also much lower than expected, then I can't loosing too much pressure through the pipe, and therefore no blockage and therefore it must be a duff pump. If its nearer 1.35 litres per minute, then it must be a blockage in the pipe? Back in a little while ❗ Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewls Posted January 5, 2006 Author Share Posted January 5, 2006 Yeah, the only safe way, or way of doing this without getting petrol in my face is to get an extra length of fuel pipe. I here from Norman petrol (or oil for that matter) doesn't taste very nice Off to motor factor now... Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 It isn't widely known, but the round facet pump should have an internal mesh filter (if its like mine) and the ends of the pump come off very easily - you will notice the hexagon ends for a spanner. If you did get a duff batch of fuel it would be this internal filter that the crap would get to first and not necessarily one closer to the engine Edited by - Graham Perry on 5 Jan 2006 13:22:24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete east Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 My brothers Seven gave problems similar to those described. It would often die after a burst of heavy throttle, but would restart and run normally after a short space of time. This time the problem turned out to be a small plug of cork gasket, which fell off one of the screw holes through the tank sender gasket, this managed to attach itself to the bottom of the metal fuel pipe in the tank, and acted as a flap valve, only fully closing when a high demand for fuel sucked the plug into the end of the fuel pipe (Bit like those flaps you see on the top of vertical truck exhausts) after removal of said cork plug from the tank feed pipe the problem never re-occured Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian.hoper Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Hi Joseph Re my original posting I forgot to mentiom that I had fitted a glass fuel filter also and that I was told cut the pressure to the carbs . As mentioned scrapped the upgradeitis and went back to original set up but primed the pipework and all back to normal . Ian Ian Hoper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewls Posted January 5, 2006 Author Share Posted January 5, 2006 FOUND THE PROBLEM ❗ 😬 and 🙆🏻 at the same time I brought a new length of cable from halfrauds, ran it straight from the fuel pump, drapped it over the car, connected it to the fuel filter and then timed how long it took to fill the same 300ml jam jar from the exit pipe of the fuel filter, the same as before.... The old pipe took 1 minute 21 seconds, the new pipe took 12 seconds ❗ Gentlemen, I think we found the problem ❗ The old pipe is totally buggered! I guessed it was that as soon at I pulled it off the pump. It is perished, and the inside has expanded to such an extent that the internal diameter of the old pipe is less than half it should be! I'm ashamed that I didn't realise how bad a condition it was in! Next question, how on earth do I run the new pipe now the transmission tunnel! I guess it involves removing the transmision tunnel top 🤔 I don't think I like the idea of doing that! Would it be a crime to run it through the car? Many thanks! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterg Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Would it be a crime to run it through the car? yes it would! - for something that contains petrol under pressure I'd always want it on the 'outside' Edited by - peterg on 5 Jan 2006 15:57:44 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strongy Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Joe, what age is your seven? On my crossfloow the trasmission tunnel cover inside the car is held on with 6 screws and gives quite good access around the gear linkage area. Why not jack the car up and get it up as high as you can on axle stands, it might be straightforward, also if you remove the boot floor you can gain some valuable working space at the tank end. Best of luck Strongy, pratting about on Blatchat when I should either be working or getting ready to go home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian R Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Well found at last! Jack the car up on 4 axle stands, you might even have to remove the transmission tunnel and see where the clips are located holding the petrol pipe in place. Get a piece of metal pipe and join the old and the new pipes together and see if you can thread the new one in and pull the old one out without too much disruption? Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Sewell Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Are you saying that the hard petrol pipe that goes inside the transmission tunnel is bu99ered, or just the flexible hoses at each end? I would be fairly surprised if the rigid pipe had deteriorated. Cheers, Graham --- Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewls Posted January 5, 2006 Author Share Posted January 5, 2006 Whoops Didn't realise that that was a solid pipe down the transmission tunnel I'll just replace the two flexes at either end of the transmission tunnel then Was in a hurry, that's my excuse, off out now, I'll report back tomorrow ❗ Thanks so much everyone! Blatchat is great! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Joseph, yes there is no need to replace the whole pipe, just the rubber bits at either end of the hard pipe that runs down the chassis. Sounds like the makings of another blatchat success story Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Formston Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Hi Joseph glad to here its sorted I felt in my bones it was fuel but without being there and seeing its hard to pin point the problem, but its fixed now, just make sure no rubber fragments have gone into those filters I told you about in the carb unions Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 So many variations in 7 construction, my fuel pipe has only ever been a flexible rubber type, from end to end, now I'm reading here of metal pipe and flexy bits on the end, it would seem a better way honestly, but I've had no trouble with mine, and can't be 🙆🏻 to muck about with it, thanks for the info though. Nigel. 1982. 5 speed, clamshells. B.R.G / Ali. The True Colours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 My 1989 chassis has a plastic pipe from the diff area to the area at the front of the tunnel (where it opens out). I've seen rubber hose go soft and close up under suction before.Real problem when the outer layer is good. Use neoprene hose as a replacement. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Septimus Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 The original pipe fitted by Lotus on my S3 was made of a hard plastic which lasted well and was light. Unfortunately after a particularly heavy compression of the rear suspension the nuts on the diff flange chewed through it and I found myself sitting in a pool of petrol. I replaced it with copper which was quite easy to bend over the axle and feed through the (fully enclosed) tunnel and I put two coils about 4" diameter in the pipe before connecting up to the fuel pump on the engine. These absorb the relative movement between engine and frame. I think copper is ideal for this application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewls Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 🙆🏻 Unfortunatly, mine has one rubber pipe that runs from the fuel pump, all the way through the transmission tunnel, to the fuel filter....... So, how do I get in ❗ Drill out the rivets 🤔 Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Get a solid pipe, feed it through the tunnel as described above, add a rubber hose each end as necessary & leave the old one there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian R Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Yep, drill them out, maybe easier to get to from the passenger compartment. Get a dremmel/hacksaw, cut the swaged end off and drill out the rest if required. You might be able to rivit them back from the passender side rather than from underneath. Check clearance etc. around where they are fitted. Or just cable tie the new pipe to the old one that is fixed in place already, but cut off the ends Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewls Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 Just to add my 7 has a full floor. Some seven's I have seen have no floor area beneath the prop shaft, I would imagine this would make the job a lot easier. Also, I would then need to go out and buy a "riveter" to re-attach the transmission top cover I guess. Hmmmmmmmm, this like like a nasty job..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian R Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Is the tunnel not held on with self tapper screws then under the carpet? A riviter is handy to have with a 7 - if you need an excuse to buy one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewls Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 Phew Just removed seats and carpets, picked away masses of carpet tape to find some self taper screws Looks like access is going to be a bit tight though! I sense some skined knuckles and swearing coming on 😳 I'll report back later when hopefully, I'll be a bit closer to getting my seven back on the road Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewls Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 Just returned from a quick blat and it would appear that it is now fixed 😬 I'll take it out on a longer blat soon to confirm this. Many thanks to everyone on blatchat who gave me advice, blatchat never fails ❗ (Only thing is I must have disturned a connection with I took the transmission tunnel off as now the reversing light isn't working, but that's a minor thing ❗) Thanks again Joe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strongy Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 The reverse light switch is found on the gearbox, (driver's side). On mine it was a single pole switch held onto the gearbox by what I can only describe as a "popper". The second time my reverse lights failed I traced it to a bad earth at the reverse lamp itself. Hope this helps Strongy, pratting about on Blatchat when I should either be working or getting ready to go home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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