Tony Martyr Posted July 29, 2005 Share Posted July 29, 2005 There is a dirt trap where the passenger footwell ends which causes skin corrosion where the frame joins the botton rail at this point. I have signs of localised corrosion on the outside of the skin at this point and was considering the best and least drastic method of dealing with it. I am considering cutting a section of skin away including the effected area which will allow me to get at the frame at this point clean it up and prevent further damage. Then I propose to pop-rivet a silicon sealed patch over the repair hole. Has anyone done this - seached but can't find anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted July 29, 2005 Share Posted July 29, 2005 Think most people put up with it until a reskin is required. Expensive and drastic... ...good excuse to keep the traps clean... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_Rich_Bernie Posted July 29, 2005 Share Posted July 29, 2005 When I bought my 93 car 3 & 1/2 yrs ago it had paint bubbles on both sides. I cleaned out the area behind, forced in some rust proofer. I then cleaned off the bubbling paint back to shiny metal, etch primed the ali, and thinking it would bubble through again just roughly touched up with a pot of paint. It hasn't bubbled anymore. It would have been worth touching the paint in carefully - at the time I didn't bother expecting it to bubble up again. I guess it depends how precious you are about the car, but faced with this again I'd do the same, but use a metal filler (the type you can get from Frosts that has a high metal content) and then have the paint blown in. Key thing is to stop it going any further. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted July 30, 2005 Share Posted July 30, 2005 I agree with Jonathan. If it's not too bad a localised repair as described in every Hades manual is the way forward and will see you right for the next couple of years. Paint what you can see, oil/grease/Waxoyl the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JampJ Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 If you can find a good Tig welder (person that is), they should be able to weld you a plate into a cut out hole, good enough for you to flat down and repaint. Cheers J&J JFDI (Just F*****g Do It) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 John Julie, IMO anyone who can weld ally that thin with a TIG walks on water. You can weld ali with a TIG but only heavier material, unfortunately. In this case however I would of course like to be proved wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal mickey Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 BOSS - that's utter nonsense. I can weld ally of that gauge both with TIG and oxy acetylene. If you'd like a demo feel free to drop in - I can't walk on water though. I wouldn't however recommend that as a course of repair in that area as the heat will burn any remaining powder coating off the chassis unless the skin is eased away and that of coarse would involve removing the rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JampJ Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 I agree, the panel would need to be eased away from the chassis, but if a proffesional finish is required, I think that's the way to go. I've just completed my second year welding, and if I had the equipment, wouldn't find it difficult. An experienced tig welder would have no problem, after all, that's how the various panels are welded together by Arch Motors. Cheers J&J Edited by - johnjulie on 31 Jul 2005 19:30:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxy Smith Posted July 31, 2005 Share Posted July 31, 2005 In my opinion Mike Riley can walk on water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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